1989 50 hp Force motor cannot maintain WOT

[Nicktr23]

Here is a link video of the motor running.
The motor has good compression. 125 on both cylinder. Has good sparks after I replaced a bad stator. The motor starts and idle in the water without any problem. The problem I'm having is that when I go full throttle, the engine picks up but then bog down. It will stay running but loses power. I removed the carb, and it looks pretty clean. I remove the fuel air mixture screw, it looks a little worn. I didnt disassemble the floats as the pin holding it was on so tight. But the needle was moving freely. Didnt look stuck at all. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Also, this engine gets easily flooded with gasoline. There are a lot of gas dripping in the throat of the carbs. It appears whenever I start the engine, the choke is engage even though I dont press the key in.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The needle shouldn't move at all.
Does it still have the spring on it?
Set it at 1 1/4 turns out and leave it.
The air screw does nothing past idle.
It's there to set the air/fuel mix at idle.

The fuel coming out the front: that could be the reeds or the needle/seat in the carb is clogged,
or the fuel pump diaphragm is bad??

Does the squeeze ball get firm when you pump it? No? then it might be bad or the diaphragm in the
pump is bad?

The choke it only works if the key is depressed.
The 89 used the choke, a primer system was used in later models.
The excess fuel could be the reeds or the fuel pump, take the pump apart and inspect the diaphragm.

 

[Nicktr23]

Guess I'm gonna take off the fuel pump and inspect the diaphragm for any rip/tear. The bulb does get hard but I can still keep pumping it with force. I'll also install a clear fuel filter in between the fuel pump and carb to monitor fuel flow.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The squeezie can be bad if you can still squeeze it after it firms up.
Even new squeezies can be bad.
I had 3 tempos bad right out of the box.

 

[Jiggz]

The clear fuel filter is a great addition. Wait until you get this installed and then do test runs with the cowl cover off and monitor the fuel flow. Great troubleshooting filter for sure.

 

[catfishcarl99]

the pin holding float in has one end that holds it snug . try the opposite side it should come out. one side has little fins that keeps it in the carb tabs.

 

[Nicktr23]

Thank you for everyone input. I got the problem solved. I open up the fuel pump and the diaphragm look okay, not torn and no pinhole. The screen was clean, no debris. The problem was the fuel line!!! The fuel line is lined inside by some thin plastic wrap that I was able to pull out. I'm guessing this layer of plastic was not suppose to delaminate from the tube. Replaced the fuel line along with a new primer bulb to fit the 1/4 fuel line I have and it ran great.
now on to the next problem why the choke is activated even though I didnt push in the key. When i turn the key to start, it activate the choke. This is problematic as it flooded the engine last time out.

 

[jerryjerry05]

That could be the ignition switch.
Unhook the battery: then WD-40 or something similar.
Spray in the switch and operate it.
Pushing in the choke as you turn the key.
Repeat a few times.

Then if it continues?
Test light at the choke as you turn the key.
If the light operates?
Then the switch is probably bad??

The switch, make sure the wires aren't loose on the back.

 

[Nicktr23]

That could be the ignition switch.
Unhook the battery: then WD-40 or something similar.
Spray in the switch and operate it.
Pushing in the choke as you turn the key.
Repeat a few times.

Then if it continues?
Test light at the choke as you turn the key.
If the light operates?
Then the switch is probably bad??

The switch, make sure the wires aren't loose on the back.

Looks like the person who wired the ignition switch didnt do a good job. The choke wasn't wired to the right post. Fixed it and now choke on demand. thank you for your response.