1989 Charger 170V restore

[Hghvoltage]

Hi everyone,
I have been lurking here for a few months trying to get a few ideas on how to restore my project boat. I have owned since new but 21 years of fishing, Texas weather and a stint uncovered has taken its toll on her. I decided to rebuild her instead of replacing her because I have never found a boat that rides like this one. I will post some pics later tonight of the progress I have made so far.
All the hardware has been removed, OB (GT150), hull and cap separated.
When I started separating the cap off I had to cut the splash-well because they epoxied the cap to the transom, I have never heard of that being done. I have taken core samples of the transom and they are all dry wood so I'm lucky there. I thin I am just going to drill the mounting holes over-sized and fill with epoxy and re-drill but not sure yet. Any ideas will be welcome.
Thanks,
Hghvoltage

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Welcome to iboats. Can you take some pictures. That will help in what need to be done.

 

[Hghvoltage]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Here are some pics of before cap was off

 

[Hghvoltage]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Pics after cap was removed

These 2 pics show where the splash well was epoxied to the transom.

Looking from the stern

Looking from the bow

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

She's ugly but has a real neat shape. I think that will be one sharp boat all fixed up. Good luck with your project.

 

[concept10]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Any updates?

 

[Hghvoltage]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

No work on the boat because I got sidetracked rebuilding a 32ft travel trailer for deer camp. Finished the trailer last weekend so now its time to get back on the boat.

 

[concept10]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Alright, well now I'm at the same point as you, so let't get rolling so we can get these boats on the water before the spawn! (that's my goal)

 

[Hghvoltage]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Well I have finally been able to get back on the boat. I have managed to get all of the floor and the foam out. I checked the transom and it is wet so its coming out also. Here are a few pics of the progress.

They glassed in 2x4's in the back of the bilge but the cut thru the glass for the drain tube so I have hollow glass 2x4's in the bottom now.

Its hard to tell from these pics but the stringers are made of 1"x12" and glassed in but they need to be changed also, nails from the deck let water in.

 

[Hghvoltage]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

I'm back and working on her again, work has been relentless the last 2 years. I finally landed a job where 40hrs a week is normal instead of making me feel like I'm on vacation (3450 and 3600 hrs over the last 2 years). I placed my order with US Composites the day after Christmas only to see that they are closed until after 1/3/2012 but its no worries. I have managed to get the stringers cut out and the transom completely remove. I also laminated the new stringers out of arco 1/2" ACX with PL and the transom is laminated out of 3/4" ACX.
I have the rear stringers rough cut to height and the transom is cut to final shape just want to get the holes in it predrilled and edges rounded off. I'll try to get some pics posted after this weekend.
I ordered 25yrds of 1708 biax, 10gals of poly resin, mixing cups, 10lbs of fumed silica, and a roller.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

I hope you ordered some 1.5 oz CSM!!! You'll need to lay a layer of it before the 1708. 25 yds should be about right. I think you're about 10yds to LONG on the 1708 unless you plan on doing the deck with it. That's 75 lineal ft x 50" wide. That's a lot of material. CSM Yep you need a bunch of it but 1708 is just for the final layer so.... Not so much. You'll prolly need 5 more gallons of resin too! 10lbs of Silica is WAY to much. 5 qts of Cabosil should be about right and a 1 lb of 1/4" chopped fibers.

Here's some helpful drawings...

Click the pics to enlarge

Stringers
Note: You can use PB to bed your stringers in too! If you use the PL then you MUST wait 72 Hours to allow the PL to cure, before tabbing them to the hull



Decks
Note: You can use the 1708 on the top of the deck but it is not needed. You should use it to tab the deck to the hull sides to provide structural strength. If you do put the 1708 on I would recommend finishing it off with a finish layer of CSM. You can Add wax to the final layer of resin if you wish but not needed. It will be a bit tacky if you don't but will eventually cure to a non tacky state. Adding wax to the final coat will immediately take away this tackiness.



Transoms
NOTE: This is where you Definetly want to use the 1708 for strength. Two layers with a layer of CSM in between and then a finish layer of CSM if you want. Not required.

 

[zopperman]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Looking good there. and nice truck
Woody is the man to listen to, those drawings have SAVED many people here on iboats.
Welcome aboard, look forward to seeing your progress

 

[Hghvoltage]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Thanks Wood and Zoop, I bought that much 1708 because I plan on reworking the seating in this one. I've always need somewhere to put a 3rd person in this boat and have decided to change it from 2 seat to either 3 seats or maybe a bench seat. This will require that I cut the area between the original seats and lower it and relocate the live-well. Fortunately there is 2 dry storage right behind the seats that I can turn into live-wells really easily. Oh and I'm kinda partial to that truck, 04 6.0 that has been the most reliable truck I've ever owned, none of the typical 6.0 problems after 250k.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Don't forget the CSM!!!!

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Great looking boat, and nice work. Your certainly have been busy. I can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[Hghvoltage]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Ok, first of many questions I'm sure. Is it a good or bad idea to oversize drill the holes in my new transom and fill with PB so that when I drill the bolt and drain holes there is no wood in that opening. I was thinking of drilling them about a 1/4"-1/2" over sized.

 

[oops!]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

HI....glad to see you are still on it...

you can do the over drill and PB trick....but i just use epoxy on all thru holes....(that is the only place i use epoxy on my boats)

if you do the pb trick....make sure you resin coat the wood in the hole before you add the pb.....resin coat....wait till tack....then fill.

but this is all way over kill.....if you use enough 5200 in the holes....you will never have a problem

 

[Hghvoltage]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Ok here are pics of my progress so far.

Stringers out, still need to finish grinding.

Old transom gone, what a PITA, not rotted away but was very wet.

New transom 2 layers of 3/4" Acura sandwiched with lots of PL.

Gluing up new stringer material.

 

[Hghvoltage]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

Thanks for the info Oops. I will just drill them after they are in and use epoxy and 5200.
New Transom side view.

Prefitting new transom and stringers.

Prefitting stringers.

Mid Bulkhead with holes for bilge drains.

The 2 glassed in 2x4's you see in this pic was the original fuel tank supports.

 

[oops!]

Re: 1989 Charger 170V restore

looks good......keep it comin