1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

[robertpage101]

in the middle of the day after running for hours my 150 quit and would not get back its rpm. ran like it was at 1/3 open. i let it sit for an hour and ran fine again. ran it again the next day and it did it only after about an hour. just cleaned the carbs but after reading up i might have not done enough. one dealer told me that it could be the flot leave? i have tried to read up and find out if anyone had this problem but by page 10 couldnt read anymore

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

You need spark and fuel (and air) to run the engine. When the engine starts to falter, pump the fuel primer bulb repeatedly. This forces gas around the fuel pump. If it runs ok when you prime it, you may have a weak fuel pump. Also, check for spark on all cylinders. Take a timing light with you. When it runs poorly, put the timing light on each plug wire. You are looking for strong, constant flashes. Weak or intermittent flashes on any plug wire indicates ignition problems. Ignition problems tend to show up once the engine reaches normal operating temperatures.

 

[robertpage101]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

The bulb was the first thing i went for when this happened and it all most always has a soft spot no mater when i am pumping it. with that said does the fuel line need to be changed. is the presure from the bulb in both(tank to bulb to motor) directions or is it in the section from the bulb to the engine I will check with a timing light next time. So this needs to be done when the engine is hot? thank you for the info

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

The fuel primer bulb will get hard when you first prime it before starting. After that, it will get somewhat softer, but should not collapse. If you reprime it during running, you should be able to get the bulb hard again. I have seen many fuel hose bulbs that have bad ball valves which can affect performance. One other odd trick, when the fuel hose is lying in the boat, make sure the bulb arrow points upward-not down. If you have a spare fuel line- change it, to eliminate the fuel line from the problem equation. You need to be running a 3/8 hose line. I'd probably check all the plug wires with a timing light once when cold-just for reference. Then don't check again till you have the performance problem-presumably when warmed up. Once it "acts up," you might be able to tie it up to the dock and idle it in gear (with load) and see what the timing light shows.

 

[robertpage101]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

I am very sorry for posting a new thread today i just did not know how this work with the listing, and if you get each posting even if it is old or new so neways i took all the plugs out and checked one by one twice for each tester.
Each was perty close to the last.
65 70
70 70
65 65
my boat wont let u turn it over in gear so i cant do it with the throttle open which i think from reading others is a no no. i did it once with the motor warm and with it cold so i dont know where else to go.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

The throttle can be closed, no biggie. When you took compression, how many imes did you let the motor spin over? (A set number or until the gauge didn't read any higher?)

Is the battery up and the motor spinning over quckly?

 

[robertpage101]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

I did both checks to see if their were any diffrence. the batt. is fully chargered (i didi it the night before) at least for the first time but no i did not charge the second time around. if that is the case with the compression how am i going to get past the mechanic when i take it in. well if i dont get this resolved though you all. just to let you know i appriciate the help. i just want to go fishing without being upset with the boat all day

 

[Dhadley]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

Ok, slow down and take your time.

When you took compression how long did you sping the motor over? Just a few times or until the gauge quit going higher?

 

[robertpage101]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

sorry both and when i did it it was for about five turns and just did it till it hit the end of the reading.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

So you kept cranking until the gauge didn't read higher, correct?

 

[robertpage101]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

yes that is ture

 

[jtcarter]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

I'd try a different gauge. Its highly unlikely that all of your cylinders are that low. They're all close so try a different gauge first. Highly unlikely that you blew both head gaskets at the same time also.

 

[robertpage101]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

i did use two diffrent gages on was a rental from autozone and the other from my machanic witch was a MAC tester. are you saying try a thrid?

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

Your compression is very low. You won't make much hp with numbers that low. An XP engine should be in the 95-105 lbs range on each cyl. Having said that, it is unusual to have low compression readings all at once. These numbers are a result of gradual wear and is unlikely that low compression is the reason your engine lost that throttle all of a sudden. I would probably not put any repair $ into this engine, if the compression is really that low. It needs a teardown and rebuild.

 

[robertpage101]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

Well from what i am hearing it is very hard to get one bored and rebuilt rite. and power heads are about $2900 on this site and i only paid $3900 for it in the first place. Can a motor be rebult by a person(me) who has rebulit motocross 2-stokes. i just never have gone a lower end. i am just askig for your opinion cause i find trust in this site.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1989 evanrude 150 xp quit

Armed with a factory service manual for your specific engine, you should be able to tackle the job. With your prior 2-stroke experience, it should not be all greek to you. The crossflow engines are not all that complicated. The biggest difference to you may be the water cooled system. The factory does accept boring and replacement of one piston in a rebuild. Depending on the cylinder taper and piston scuffing, if the pistons are reusable-you will at least need to hone and repl all the piston rings. You should also consider during any overhaul: new thermostats, new impeller, complete carb teardown and ovehaul (all 3) and suggest a new fuel/oil pump. Would be nice to know the reason for the engine getting where it is. Was the engine running lean because there was debris in the carb jets, is the oil pump weak and not pumping oil, was the engine running hot, etc?