1989 Evinrude 100 XP... Runaway

[tallcanadian]

So I got the intake off. The reeds look like they are in great condition. But I did make some calls about the orifices in the carbs. I was talking to Boyesen about what orifices have to be changed if any. See if I can explain this so you all can understand this. I'm not good in explaining things. They tell me the only change are the low speed orifices. They tell me to install small size by 5. I believe it's in thousands. The factory number is a 26C. So I would need a 21C. What is in there now is a 27C. So that has to be changed. The factory high speed orifice is 60C. What is in there now is a 57C. The other factory orifice is I guess the mid range? It should be a 38 but what is in there now is a 34. So I guess things are a mess with jetting of my carbs. Any thoughts? I need to change these. Who would sell them?

Edit. I may have been given some wrong info. I was told by BRP that the low speed orifice are located inside the carb in the fuel bowl area. I've read another thread on iboats that they are located at the front of the carb. Can someone clarify this for me?:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:

 

[ondarvr]

It makes perfect sense.

Any dealer can order them. Have the dealer confirm what you are supposed to have in it too.

 

[racerone]

The part numbers can be found in factory manuals.----You will need the part # because often the dealers are " too busy " to look this up for you !!

 

[ondarvr]

This may not be the cause of your problem though.

 

[tallcanadian]

Hey guys. Some orifices are available some are discontinued. Ondarvr, you may be correct. I'm sure this isnt' my main problem but can explain some things too. I just want this right and getting the right orifices in there is one step forward.

 

[ondarvr]

You can drill out the small ones to the new larger size if you can't buy them.

 

[tallcanadian]

No Title

Okay. So I'm slowly making some headway. I installed the intake and new gasket. The old gasket was a real mess and hard to come off but I got the surfaces clean as a whistle. I was able to order all the proper jets so they will be in next week. I also got in the kit for the primer solenoid.

 

[tallcanadian]

Just a bit of an update. I reinstalled the intake manifold. I was able to find the proper orifices for my carbs. Boyesen recommended that my low speed air bleed jets be 5 sizes smaller than factory.I was able to locate new ones as well as the proper sizes for the rest of them. 12 jet came up to 230 dollars. Got to love Canada. :facepalm:

So carbs are reinstalled with new gaskets. I also had to order in a kit for the primer solenoid. I broke off one of the little nipples on the old one, plus it wasn't pumping properly. I checked all my wiring and found that I had issues with the kill and starting connection. I didn't always have the shut off when I turned off the key and always didn't have connection when I turned to key to start. I replaced the plug with another that I had and all is working normal in that regards.

I also removed the lower unit again to check for any gas leaks from the bottom crank seal. Everything is dry and normal. So I reinstalled the lower. Everything is fastened back together and ready for another test. I am going to build a water box instead of searching for a barrel. I have a blue plastic 45 gallon drum but it's still not wide enough for my lower unit to fit into. Once I get that done then I will be putting it in and doing another test start.

 

[interalian]

No Title

Good progress. Funny your 45 gallon drum doesn't work for you - the one I got fits just fine. I cut the top off totally, just below the rim. Plenty strong enough.

I even had a bigger leg off a Force 90 in there - it stretched the barrel but worked. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLmkeDzO10s

 

[tallcanadian]

I will have to remeasure. But I thought my lower was too long. I will check again tomorrow

 

[interalian]

No Title

This is how my motor hangs. I cut the barrel so it would fit just under the transom bracket by the curly pipe to the TnT.

 

[tallcanadian]

What you all think?

 

[interalian]

Sounds like you've licked your problem and have a crossflow running on muffs at a reasonable idle speed. With some backpressure (sitting on the boat in the lake, or in a barrel), it'll idle quite a bit lower and smoother. The odd pop is very normal for not having backpressure.

 

[tallcanadian]

It's a lot smoother and now idles "normal" like. All the idle adjustments, cables are set as low as they can go. It did however heat up to a point the I couldn't keep my hands on it. It pees good and the water was cool to touch. The t stat housing was cool to the touch as well. But the engine was hot to the touch. I toke the water hoses of the t stat housing and it too was hot, not scalding but up there. I will take them out tomorrow. They are new however. I hope they aren't in backwards. Lol.

 

[interalian]

Since the thermostats are the last point in the cooling system, if the housing is cool but the engine is hot, the most likely is a blocked bleed hole in the thermostat plate. At idle, you'll never get enough water through to unseat the poppets. If the bleed hole is blocked, you won't get any water through to heat the housing and stats.

As for idle, it'll idle a lot lower when mounted on the boat due to backpressure on the exhaust.

 

[tallcanadian]

Since the thermostats are the last point in the cooling system, if the housing is cool but the engine is hot, the most likely is a blocked bleed hole in the thermostat plate. At idle, you'll never get enough water through to unseat the poppets. If the bleed hole is blocked, you won't get any water through to heat the housing and stats.

As for idle, it'll idle a lot lower when mounted on the boat due to backpressure on the exhaust.

I really appreciate your input in this. You have no idea.

 

[tallcanadian]

Since the thermostats are the last point in the cooling system, if the housing is cool but the engine is hot, the most likely is a blocked bleed hole in the thermostat plate. At idle, you'll never get enough water through to unseat the poppets. If the bleed hole is blocked, you won't get any water through to heat the housing and stats.

As for idle, it'll idle a lot lower when mounted on the boat due to backpressure on the exhaust.

I took the t stats out tonight and as suspected they were a mess with gasket glue. I used it only because I had a broken bolt and had to drill it out. I just wanted some extra security there but I did have a bit of a hard time getting it back on at the time. I have everything all cleaned up but I'm a little green with your terminology.. I've been looking at some parts catalogue and have yet to figure it out.Lol. Bleed Hole is where? And what are you calling the thermostat plate. Is that the part between the engine and thermostat housing? Thanks.

 

[interalian]

No Title

The thermostat plate is the plastic part that's sandwiched between the motor and the aluminum cover with the hose nipples. Item 91 in this picture. There are two tiny holes toward the center of the plate. BRP is calling it a valve body on their parts site. Some here suggest these bleed holes can be enlarged to minimize risk of blockage, but I left mine as stock and have never had a problem.

 

[tallcanadian]

So I cleaned everything up. It was a mess. And yes, that bleed hole was plugged. I found a great video on You Tube on how to replace these very t stats that I have. It was a big help. So now I wait. Heavy rain today. I guess it's a good day to build a water tank to run the motor in.

 

[tallcanadian]

[No message]