1989 sea Ray pachanga 22 454 b1 SLOW

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
I guess I can't say that I have ever encountered a properly functioning engine where this has been an issue.

From what I can tell, you are way too hung up on what should be happening with this boat compared to other boats with the same engine. Lets focus on your boat. Do these other boats have the same length? Design? Hull shape? Weight Distribution?

More importantly, does it have the same engine condition and gear ratio as these "other" boats? Same model drives? Same engine compression?

You doubt you have waterlogged foam, but you mentioned in earlier posts this boat sits 2 inches lower in the water. Water logged foam would do that. It doesn't take on water now, but has it in the past?

Focus on everything that is actually happening with your boat rather than what theoretically should be happening. There is no magic fix here. You seem to want to keep skirting the problem and compare boats and props, rather than focusing on your boat. We all need numbers to help you.
 

davidonmars

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
84
I never said my boat sits 2" lower someone else said that. I owned a doral phazer which is a direct copy of the searay pachanga same engine drive hull everything. That boat did 65mph GPS with a 23 cleaver. I haven't done plugs and wires but is it possible at all rpm the boat runs great except wot on bad wires or plugs? I did cap and rotor. Set timing so it's 8 degree base and it advances 22 degrees making 30 degrees total. Tach is accurate verified with my timing light. Changed the fuel seperator. Tried 21 mirage and 23 cleaver and 23 mirage get same rpm within 100 rpm of eachother. I know the motor has been gone threw recently but I do intend on checking compression when I do the plugs but I suspect that to be fine. Could it be too rich maybe or lean?
 

davidonmars

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
84
Here are compression number cold engine wot
142 cyl 2
140 cyl 4
138 cyl 6
145 cyl 8
145 cyl 1
138 cyl 3
148 cyl 5
140 cyl 7
 
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davidonmars

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
84
Put plugs and wire ran it first time went to 4900 almost 5000 stopped it for a few minutes went out again and only hitting 4500 changes the ignition sensor assembly to the updated one same thing 4500 54 55 mph on GPS bouncing around there with a 21 mirage. Compression is good not sure what is going on
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
Inspect the spark plug insulators for color. White = lean, golden brown = good, dark brown to black = rich
 

davidonmars

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
84
I don't think the plugs are very old they have a bit of golden brown mostly normal insulator white colour no discoloration
 

davidonmars

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
84
Where should I start with fuel system and when it was running higher rpm you could hear the engine was running stronger more rpm
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,567
Install a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel pump and carb, should see 4 to 7 psi thru the entire rpm range.
 

davidonmars

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
84
You don't think anything funny with the fact as soon as I do cap rotor wire plugs first ride she'll rev to 5 drive it for 5 min. Park it put tools away go out on it again 10 min later she was revving up then kinda died off 500 rpm and test of the day could only get 4500.
 

davidonmars

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
84
Another thing I guess whoever put the distributor in previous owner had it in wrong spot when I did wire I followed numbers on cap and firing was way off I think I had to shift all the wire 3 or 4 spots counter clockwise before it would fire but timing is still 8 btdc
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,254
Use the stickies at the top of the forum for the low WOT check list.

Don't simply buy a tach. Use a good quality diagnostic tach (rent one of you need) most good timing lights these days will also tell you engine rpm
 
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