1989 SeaRay 160

[rotorhead22]

We decided to replace the carpet in our SeaRay and after removing all the pieces necessary I discovered some issues. I lifted the panel over the fuel tank and observed the aft wall of the fuel tank area was completely rotted away and found water damage in the ski storage area on one side. I know that these areas will need to be fixed but I am requesting some guidance so that I dont remove too much and suggested fixes. I have experience with fiberglass but that was 30 years ago.

 

[alldodge]

Looks like a full restore is in order. There isn't a place IMO of removing to much, all the rot and/or wet wood needs to come out. You could make it easier if the top was separated from the bottom.

My guess is the transom is also rotted

 

[Mr.Stickney]

Looks awfully familiar

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...lding-and-hull-repair/9918254-project-sea-ray

Same sort of delamination that I saw before I got started. In my opinion, if the floors coming out you might as well do the rest. The money lost in doing the floor and then having the transom start cracking or floor caving in from underneath you will be hurt much more if you knew you could have prevented.

 

[SDSeville]

Looks like a full restore is in order.

^+1

 

[Woodonglass]

^^+2

 

[Mark72233]

I will play along. +3.

Excluding the stringers and wood under the floor of the cabin in my boat my take on the rest of the wood that was in the transom or under the deck was even if it looked ok it had been there for 42+ years and certainly had served it useful life span and even if it wasn't looking rotten it was going to be soon enough so while I am in there it is getting replaced.

 

[rotorhead22]

No Title

This just keeps getting better. I wonder if I can buy and old plane that has sat in a pasture for 30 years and work on it at the same time.:lock1: It was intimidating at first but I have come to realize that boats this size are not that complicated. I was a Huey mechanic and crewchief for several years and many of the principles are the same. Maybe now I can put my A&P to good use

 

[rotorhead22]

Need the experts to chime in here. I have the plans for the engine stand and will remove the engine by the end of the week. the realization has set in about replacing stringers, formers and transom. My big question is after I remove the engine, I would like to move the boat into the back yard and remove all of the rotted wood and grind down the fiberglass where the dust will not be all over the house. Will I have a big risk in twisting something in moving the boat back to the garage?

 

[Woodonglass]

Put some 1x4 across the beam and then use nylon straps to hold everything in place. No Worries after that.

 

[rotorhead22]

Put some 1x4 across the beam and then use nylon straps to hold everything in place. No Worries after that.

Thank you for the reply, I didnt notice any jigging in the forum photos but it would appear that most boats had not been moved after tear down

 

[Woodonglass]

Oh yeah, they get move around a LOT!!! Really not a problem if they're braced well. These little 16 footers aren't that flimsy. What IS critical is that you have all the original measurements so that when you're ready to start putting her back together you can put her back EXACTLY to the same specs!!!

 

[rotorhead22]

No Title

Here are updated photos. I can understand why a shop charges so much to do this.

 

[Fastatv]

Here are updated photos. I can understand why a shop charges so much to do this.

Yes, it's a tremendous amount of work when done correctly...I have done a few...doubt I ever do another. What engine does that 160 have, I'm just curious....an I/O, maybe a 3 liter?

 

[rotorhead22]

Yes, it's a tremendous amount of work when done correctly...I have done a few...doubt I ever do another. What engine does that 160 have, I'm just curious....an I/O, maybe a 3 liter?

This model has a Mercury OB 100. I next item will be to put together the engine stand and remove the engine. There is more to be replaced in the aft section but I believe that the 350lbs of metal back there will break off if i continue cutting.

 

[rotorhead22]

I have pretty much determined what needs to go back in as far as wood goes. On Craigslist there is a roll of 2415 woven roving for sale. Would this be overkill for stringers and decking?

 

[rotorhead22]

No Title

After several more hours of grinding...... I am ready to cut out templates. I have a question about gluing in the stringers. I have seen several statements such as " I need to come up with some 1/4 inch spacers to hold them off the hull to attach them with PL" Why would you need a 1/4" spacer?

 

[alldodge]

On Craigslist there is a roll of 2415 woven roving for sale. Would this be overkill for stringers and decking?

IMO I think 24 oz would be to much for stringers, decking could work, but it's going to take a lot more resin. I would start with CSM and finish with 1708 on the stringers

I need to come up with some 1/4 inch spacers to hold them off the hull to attach them with PL" Why would you need a 1/4" spacer?

You don't want hard spots between the hull and stringers, so an air gap is used by some and PB with others. If the stringers are in direct contact with the hull it can cause stress cracks from the water pounding.

 

[archbuilder]

looks like you have been busy rotorhead! I don't think you will be very happy with roving, it is mainly used to build up thickness quickly. I would use a couple layers of 1708 biax on the stringers and a layer of 1708 on the deck followed by a couple layers of 1.5 oz cop strand mat. The 1708 will give you all the strength you need, probably way more than factory. The CSM will smooth out the deck and it is a good water proofer. the 1708 has a texture that some people don't like. But then again I think someone on here went without the CMS on the deck because they wanted the texture.

I can't comment on the stringer spacing, I usually do mine with a composite material.....whole did different thing.

Keep up the good work!

 

[rotorhead22]

You don't want hard spots between the hull and stringers, so an air gap is used by some and PB with others. If the stringers are in direct contact with the hull it can cause stress cracks from the water pounding.

Now it makes sense, you more or less want "floating" stringers.

 

[rotorhead22]

No Title

Yesterdays progress was a great step forward in rebuilding finally