1989 Winner 1700 Intrigue

mjw210

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 1, 2012
Messages
43
Does anyone know how to remove the front bow seat and rear bench seat? They need to be repaired. Also the floor by the vent towards the back is spongy and I would like to replace the floor but I can't for the life of me figure out how or where it's fastened down. It has a 3.0 Mercruiser Alpha 1 but I don't know much about inboards. Is there something I should be aware of for common problems? The compression from back to front cylinders was 115, 115, 120, 132. I'm a little concerned about the 132. The motor was not completely warmed up. The spark plugs were all oily and need to be replaced. Had a little white smoke at start up and got better. It does look like it needs a new fuel line and carb kit. Im looking to buy this boat in the next day or so. Any tips or advice to help put me at ease would be great.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
115 to 132 is within spec -http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Bullet/97/97_25.pdf . New would be around 150 for all. I have seen some good carbon cleaning oil treatments free up rings enough to increase and level out the compression when they are like this. However, nothing much will stop it from burning oil except a rebuild. Usually valve seals, and with low compression, your rings are probably culprits. Rebuilding a 3.0L is not hard, pretty easy in fact. But the parts are relatively expensive compared to other motors that have automotive applications.

Soft floor usually means soft stringers and transom. You should take any opportunity you can to test for wood rot down low. Both the transom and stringers should have test holes drilled into them to see if the wood is wet/soggy/rotten or even missing. That makes the boat a major restoration as opposed to a floor and upholstery patch job.

If I had to guess, the rear bench has hinges attaching to a base and the base is screwed into the floor and maybe sides. No idea on bow seating - usually the seat cushions are just drop in while the back pads are screwed through seams right into the cap.

RIck
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Floor is almost certainly attached by virtue of fiberglassing it in. No fasteners at all, just glass. To replace a section you cut it out with a skill saw and fiberglass in replacement wood. As stated, soft floors usually mean soggy stringers and transom. They almost always go together.
 

mjw210

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 1, 2012
Messages
43
Thanks so much for the fast replies. I will look for the transom. I didn't realize it was wood since everything is fiberglass on it. It's got a decent trailer and he's asking 700 and needs cash. If the transom is bad do I need to cut the fiberglass to access the wood? Thanks.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
You go in from the inside by removing the engine. You can find LOADS of threads on doing this - here's a couple pictures of my internal repairs to kind of give you an idea of what you will find when you start digging. Underneath the fiberglass stringers running the length of the floor, is the wood structure. And inside your transom is at least 1.5-2 inches of plywood glassed in to give structure for your motor to push against.

Top picture I have started grinding off the gelcoat to add motor mounts and found some rot happeneing in the bottom of the transom.

Second picture I am measuring before glassing in new motor mounts for a V6. You can see the floor cutouts in the corners. They were cutout to inspect the stringers and to tie in the new transom to the stringers.

Last picture is basically finished with all the wood glassed over and sealed off from water.

Your boat will look very similar with the motor out.


vac.jpg
top-down_sm.jpg


Done Fiberglassing.jpg
 
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