198x SS-150 rebuild

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,758
Why not just make a seat box for the passenger side? Gives you a little storage and allows placement without stringer interference.

SHSU
 

Rasdiir

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
177
Why not just make a seat box for the passenger side? Gives you a little storage and allows placement without stringer interference.

SHSU
If I can't find a seat that unfolds from both ends I think a box with two seats facing opposite will be my only option, I would just lose the unfolding capability.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,758
You don't want to do the jump seat box? Figured since you were going to do a pedestal, a single seat would work out.

SHSU
 

Rasdiir

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
177
You don't want to do the jump seat box? Figured since you were going to do a pedestal, a single seat would work out.

SHSU
I still want to do a B2B seat that can go over the removable pedestal, I was hoping to find one that unfolds but if not then two regular seats placed B2B will work.

I finished sanding all the floor pieces and ordered and received the removable pedestal mount for the passenger side, I went with the Attwood 238. I spent a few days trying to figure out mounting locations for the future B2B seat and finally decided to just put the backing plates in the right places to accommodate a normal size B2B base (31.25x13.5" seemed to be standard). I will install 6 t-nuts in those plates and will just have to modify whatever seat base I eventually get to hit those locations (or build my own out of wood, then I can put the mounting locations right where the t-nuts are located). With that decision made I glued on the first layer of 1/2" backing plates.

My Shark Grey Nautolex and SS t-nuts arrived, and I was surprised to see a the colors had a brown tinge instead of the grey I expected. At first I thought they sent the wrong kind, but it appears I was victim of the low-res picture on their site, when I searched for a better picture the color is the same as I received. It's not too far off and will work fine, just not what I though was coming. Now that I have the t-nuts I will be drilling the bolt mounting holes tomorrow and installing the nuts, then gluing on the second backer plates over top, which will give me a full 1.5" thickness for all seat mounts. After that I will be sealing with OTF for the foreseeable future, 3 coats per side per floor piece and then another 3 coats of spar will take a while to apply.
 

Rasdiir

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
177
Got the mounting holes drilled, t-nuts installed, second backer plates glued and screwed on, and 2 coats of OTF on. I messed up and forgot to install the t-nuts for the future B2B seat prior to gluing the second backer plates, so I installed them after and will screw on a small aluminum plate under each one to prevent them from falling out. I also forgot to drill the holes through the second backing plates, so they are solid under the t-nuts and I will have to use shorter bolts to keep from bottoming out. Not a big deal, just one more thing to adapt to.
 

Rasdiir

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
177
After 48 hours the boards were just damp, so I figured that was enough OTF for the bottom. I flipped them all over and put on 2 coats of OTF on the top. Hopefully that will be enough for that side too and I can start with the straight spar varnish tomorrow. I need to pick up a few more paint tray liners and I can start rolling the primer on the consoles too, so I'll probably get that this weekend.
 

Rasdiir

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
177
After most of a year away from this project the slowest Starcraft resto ever attempted is back underway! I did manage to complete the floor last Sep before I packed up for winter (more on floor below), but spring this year was horribly cold and wet, and also I was busy getting ready for my wedding that happened in the end of June, so I am only getting back to it this week. I will also be going on a trip later this month back home to visit family, so there won’t be a lot of progress until August.

Last Sep:

Here are pictures of the floor pieces with backing plates, OTF, and spar process. If you look close you can see my lines for the stringers and extra bracing, I had to ensure the backing plates did not interfere.

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I got 3 coats of straight spar on all sides (6 on the edges), let it dry for a few days, then lightly sanded the spar with 120grit and used Lepage contact cement to glue down the Nautolex vinyl. The contact cement was a bit of a pain, it kept sticking to itself rather than the spar, so I ended up using all of a 500mL and most of two 946mL cans to get full coverage. To ensure I didn’t have placement issues I laid the vinyl on top of the floor in the right position, clamped a 2x4 down the center, then folded back half the vinyl over top of the 2x4. I then rolled the cement with a foam roller on both the floor and the vinyl, waited the recommended 15-20 min, then carefully flipped the vinyl back over and rolled it down to stick it firmly on. When I did the other half I ensured to fold it all the way back to the part that was already stuck down. The cement worked quite well (although expensive due to the quantity, total was almost $100) and the vinyl is firmly stuck.

Once all the vinyl was on I flipped the floor pieces over and worked on securing the edges. I applied more contact cement to the floor edges and the vinyl with about 1” overlap to the bottom, then stuck/rolled it down and used SS staples every 1-2” all the way around. I cut off the excess vinyl and the job was complete and I could recover from the hand cramps of putting in 500+ staples with a hand stapler!
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And that brings us up to today! Since I installed the vinyl right over the seat mounting holes I had to locate them again so I can install the pedestal mounts once I get the bolts. I measured the backing plates on the bottom, found a good starting point on the top and then just poked with a pushpin until I found the first bolt hole. I didn’t take long after that to locate the rest, and I temporarily stuck nails through so I don’t lose them.

How did you guys deal with the bolt holes, do you have to do anything to the edges or just ream out the vinyl enough to get the bolts in?

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Moserkr

Chief Officer + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2021
Joined
Nov 23, 2020
Messages
883
Air or electric stapler is worth every penny!! I went air. Whats next on the list?? Build starts moving fast when the floors go in.
 

Rasdiir

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
177
Air or electric stapler is worth every penny!! I went air. Whats next on the list?? Build starts moving fast when the floors go in.
Currently on vacation visiting family, but I'll still have a week off work when I return, so the foam and floor will be installed, I will be painting the underside of the consoles and then attaching them, and I'll start on the framing for the storage boxes in the rear.
 

Rasdiir

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
177
Had a good week visiting family, and got back home on the 30th, so I still had 6 days to make some progress before I went back to work this past Thursday.

I started with installing two braces at the rear to tie the transom and sides together. I saw this in some photos of another model boat (maybe a SS 16 or 18?) and thought with my slightly overpowered motor it would be good, so a 1x3x 1/8” angle was bolted to the transom and is awaiting riveting to the sides (Pic 1). You can also see the extra little tabs I riveted on last summer to support the rear of the floor, for some reason the floor had zero support for the back 12”, which seemed silly to me.

The foam was already cut and glued together last summer, and I was diligent about labelling the sections, so it all went in fairly quickly, although I did have to build a small brace at the rear to hold keep the foam from sliding to the centre of the bilge since the stringers don’t go right to the rear (Pic 3). The new brace was riveted on to the stringers and the new floor support tabs.

I started with the floor install using 3/16 all aluminum wide flange rivets with a 1” grip. My extra bracing under the floor made this super simple, I just marked each side where the braces were and then ran a straight edge to know where to drill. Each rivet was dipped in 5200 before install to help seal the wood edges, although not much ended up in the holes since a lot was scraped off when I inserted the rivets. I had a bit of 5200 that pushed out around the flange of one rivet when I popped it, and I want to warn against using acetone to clean it up, turns out the acetone removes the colour from Nautolex! You can kind of see the whiter spot in Pic 4 behind the driver seat post. I also had two rivets which the gun didn’t pull the shaft, so I cut the shaft off and will be grinding it flush since I didn’t want to drill them out and replace them.

I also realized that I made a mistake when wrapping the Nautolex on the floor panels: I did a great overlap on the edges, but I should have made sure the overlap was on the edges that face the boat sides and not the edges that butt together, it turns out that one extra layer of vinyl on each piece results in the centres of the boards being having a 1/16” gap once installed (Pic 5). I hate the gap but it would be completely cost and time prohibitive to redo the Nautolex and install, so I’ll live with it.

And finally I placed my consoles to get an idea of how to make the height correct. This week I will be dragging my windshield out of storage so I can adjust everything correctly, but from my initial placement it looks like the centres are way too high despite using 1/2” plywood for the floor (Pic 6). I am assuming the extra bracing I put under the floor is causing the difference, but it won’t be an issue since I already had to chop off the bottoms of the console sides to clean up the PO’s hack bending job, so I can just cut off a bit more until it is correct.

Next steps beside the console install are:

  • get longer bolts to use as my placeholders in the holes for the passenger B2B seat box so I can remove the nails.
  • install the splashwell, which will also require me to clean up and paint the sheet of aluminum that goes against the inner side of the transom. I will also be adding a small piece on either side that will cover the inner side of the transom above the storage boxes on each side of the splashwell since I didn’t want to paint the transom wood, I prefer the look and durability of an aluminum skin instead of painted wood.
  • start on the framing for the front seats and rear boxes.

    What sort of screws should be used to screw the splashwell to the transom? I have a bunch of 1” SS pan heads, would that be sufficient? I will be using more pop rivets to secure the splashwell and console legs to the floor unless there is risk of the rivet pulling back through since it will just be popped against the wood?

 

Rasdiir

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
177
So I got back on it today for a bit and decided to try and align the windshield so I can permanently mount the consoles and start on the bow seat framing. When I placed the windshield on using the original bolt holes the centre panel was almost 2” away from where it should hit the driver side window. The angle in my last pics indicated that my floor added more height than anticipated, so I cut 1” off the bottoms of both console legs and did another test fit. Unfortunately they still seem too long? Pic 2 shows where the consoles attach to the gunnels, it is still on an upward angle somehow?

Pics 1 and 3 show the current windshield alignment after cutting the 1” off, it’s now in the right spot at the top but still almost 1” off at the bottom. The centre window is also slightly low but I think that is due to the hinge sag I read about in some other posts. Can anyone confirm that the consoles still seem to be too high in the centre? I’m worried I will make the angle worse if I cut more off the console legs.

Any tips to get this at least close to lined up?

 

cyclops222

Commander
Joined
Mar 21, 2024
Messages
2,643
Yes You will need those 2 side walls at the Walk Thru Opening. They are what keeps the Walk Thru & windshield aligned perfectly. They are bonded to the floor and hull sides somehow.
 
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