1990 Johnson GT150 wont turn over

Sbush81

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Long time reader first time poster...Literally went to the lake yesterday and had absolutely no issues....Went back this morning and motor won't turn over...Battery is good....cleaned all connections and terminals....Turn key over get my chirp....push key in and primer solenoid clicks....But nothing from the starter....Removed starter and hooked to battery and it spins....2 little wires connected to starter solenoid don't have power regardless of key position....So im thinking key swith? Bypassed neutral safety switch to eliminate that....Any thoughts? I'll upload a pic of the control box and starter solenoid....Thanks for any help...

Stephen
 

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get a $10 remote jump starter and try that to eliminate the control box/key switch! how does the 20amp fuse look?
 

Crosbyman

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well the starter selenoid needs to activate to send +12 to the starter

diagram shows one control wire grounded so the other wire (yellow red) needs 12v from the start position on the key via whatever safety (neutral) is involved
with no +12 on the control post from the key you have to backtrack

bad fuse... bad key... bad wire key to selenoid, bad or corroded connection via the harness plug ( clean all male female pins and reinstall ) , bad neural switch
 

racerone

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If the horn goes " chirps " and the primer solenoid clicks I would say the fuse is good.------I would take the starter apart for inspection and ohm test on armature.----That work will tell you a lot and costs NOTHING to do !
 

Sbush81

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I have replaced that little glass 20a fuse...The starter solenoid does not click at all...But its not getting any power at either via the 2 smaller wires...Ordered a new key switch....While I wait for that I would like to eliminate wiring problems...How would I go about checking wires from key switch to solenoid? I have a voltmeter but the key wires and the solenoid are probably 12 foot apart....Use some wire to extend one of the voltmeter leads?
 

racerone

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Use a wee jumper wire.----Go from battery post on the solenoid to the small post on the solenoid.----See if motor cranks.
 

Sbush81

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Boat place called me and they found the switch....gonna go pick it up and we shall see...
 

Crosbyman

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unless proven guilty the switch may not need to be replace

hit and miss is expensive... wires break & oxydize at jusnctions etc...

it is better to do basic volts and ohms testing between the key start post and the selenoid control wire the black is just a ground wire make certain all connections are good . Since you say you see no voltage at the selenoid control post work backwards.

If lucky it is the key if not you have a spare key .

did you at least try the harness plug clean out ..? cost=0$$
 

Sbush81

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As usual lucks not on my side...It was not the key switch...Same scenario turn key get beep...Push in choke works but no crank...Here is a pic of the only big red plug I see on the motor....And another one of the starter solenoid....top connection has 2 wires and bottom one has 1 wire....I get no voltage here regardless of key position....So I assume these have to be the culprit....If I was to run a wire from battery I should contact the top solenoid wire and starter should spin? I guess that would eliminate the solenoid and be just an issue with these wires somewhere?

And I do appreciate everyone's help with this aggravating ass issue!!!
 

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Sbush81

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Well update to the update....I took that big red plug apart to take the pic....Plugged it back in and now it spins right over? I mean the inside of the plug looks pretty good....should I spray dielectric grease in it? I'm kinda happy but at a loss now....
 
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If its getting 12v at starter but not cranking, clean the battery neg ground connection or try a different spot on the powerhead to ground.
 

iggyw1

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Well update to the update....I took that big red plug apart to take the pic....Plugged it back in and now it spins right over? I mean the inside of the plug looks pretty good....should I spray dielectric grease in it? I'm kinda happy but at a loss now....
There is such of thing out there as an electronics contact cleaner in a spray can. I would try that to make sure the contacts are very clean. Sounds like you found your issue anyway.
 

Crosbyman

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so in conclusion oxydation in the harness plug contacts . glad you found it
grease is not to conductive so don't overdo it just wipe some 3 in 1 oil or equivalent on the pins and sockets after you shine everything up.

if you are planning to service your motor you have lots of tutorial and info on the Net on the subject of electricity and trouble shooting . which involves resistance (continuity) , voltage and amperage measurements . a lot of info on wiring diagrams is available at the boat info site (free manuals )
 

crofoot

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There is such of thing out there as an electronics contact cleaner in a spray can. I would try that to make sure the contacts are very clean. Sounds like you found your issue anyway.
There is a product called OX-GARD that is meant to be used in connectors like the one disgust .I find myself using it more and more because of computer controls. This works very well for me.
 

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Sbush81

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Thanks for the link and recommendation...I am so happy it was something just that stupid and simple!!! And I really appreciate everyone's responses and help!!!

Stephen
 

Crosbyman

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you know... that plug looks darn clean and hopefully it was oxydation but just keep in mind that sometimes wires break at flex points. unplugging and moving the plug around may have restablished continuity on the start wire so if ever this bug returns 10 miles from camp.... try flexing the cable while someone holds the key on START
you will find out soon enough....some wire surgery and soldering may be in order back at the dock :)
 
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