1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

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mnlund

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Thanks for your thoughts.
I spoke with an Lund Boat salesman yesterday and found out that Lund now uses Marine grade plywood.
He suggested that I install Marine grade ply without coating with epoxy resin.
He said that the wood needs to be able to "breathe" and if epoxy is used, it will inhibit that from happening.

I took his advice and special ordered the Marine grade ply from the local Menards.
I guess I will find out in 5-? Years if I made the correct decision.
I do plan on sealing the edges of all cuts though.

Do you have any updated pics of your overhaul, or has it been put on hold due to the winter?
 

ezmobee

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

He suggested that I install Marine grade ply without coating with epoxy resin.
He said that the wood needs to be able to "breathe" and if epoxy is used, it will inhibit that from happening.

I've heard this before but I'm just not buyin' it.
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Nah, it'd be fine. So long as that deck doesn't get wet eh:rolleyes:

Sorry but not buying it either.
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Plywood needs to be sealed on the top reguardless of the type! You will get water damage from your deck getting wet, especially if you use a carpet finish. Carpet is a sponge that soaks up and retains moisture.

The edges of the plywood aren't as critical as some people think because they're vertical and most of the water will drain off before being soaked up.

Leaving the bottom of your plywood unsealed will allow it to breathe.

Take heed to the advice given to you by the members of this forum, we've seen what happens when this mistake is made... and it ain't pretty.
 

mnlund

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Thanks for the advice. I cancelled the special order marine and choose to go the same route as harleynut
After also reading a post that stated marine ply will also fail if not sealed.

How about some new pics of the Tyee?
 

harleynut

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

How about some new pics of the Tyee?

I had to put it away for the winter in storage to make room in my garage. I did keep the new flooring ply out and plan to cover with Nautolex this winter sometime hopefully within the next couple of weeks. I will post pics as I make progress. I have all the stuff! I also kept track of how much resin I used on two coats of the flooring. I can post when I get home. It doesn't look like I am too far South of you!
 

mnlund

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Any luck on the quantity of epoxy used to cover your ply?
 

harleynut

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Any luck on the quantity of epoxy used to cover your ply?

I have been searching for my exact notes but I have not been able to find them. I originally ordered 2 gals of resin/85 oz hardener kit from US Composites for a 3:1 mixture. I still have 1 1/3 gal resin left and about a 1/2 gal hardener. This was for 2 coats both sides and edges on the flooring only. It does not include my consoles, raised front deck, or aft deck. I haven't got that far yet!

Does anyone know what the shelf life of these products is?

This is what I have left - plus 1 full gallon of resin.

DSC00923.JPG
 

mnlund

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Thanks again for the info. I was only planning on doing the edges and the top side of the floors.
Is it important to epoxy the bottom side also? I thought leaving the bottom bare would allow the
wood to breathe.
 

harleynut

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I'm no expert here but I think you'd be fine either way. I read on different forums both approaches. I had enough resin so I covered both sides. With the warmer temps we've had around here lately I'm regretting putting my project up for the winter. However, it looks like some cold stuff is moving in!
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Thanks again for the info. I was only planning on doing the edges and the top side of the floors.
Is it important to epoxy the bottom side also? I thought leaving the bottom bare would allow the
wood to breathe.

My thoughts on this are:

Water seeks it's own level and seeps down until it finds and joins with other water. If the underside of the deck is left unsealed it give the water an escape route, if the bottom of the deck is sealed the water will be trapped in the decking with no way out... not something I want to happen on my boat.
 

harleynut

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Well, I am finally getting back to my restore project...

When applying the Nautolex adhesive I found I had to apply it to both my floor panel and the vinyl to get good adhesion and drying. I tried just applying to the panel and it didn't stick and nor dry. I tended to get an uneven drying with some tackiness that didn't stick well and didn't dry fully once applied. Applying to both sides worked like a charm. I just need to cut the corners and finish tucking and stapling the edges. I'll be using contact cement for this part as recommended in the forum. Hopefully I'll have some pics soon.
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Well, I am finally getting back to my restore project...

When applying the Nautolex adhesive I found I had to apply it to both my floor panel and the vinyl to get good adhesion and drying. I tried just applying to the panel and it didn't stick and nor dry. I tended to get an uneven drying with some tackiness that didn't stick well and didn't dry fully once applied. Applying to both sides worked like a charm. I just need to cut the corners and finish tucking and stapling the edges. I'll be using contact cement for this part as recommended in the forum. Hopefully I'll have some pics soon.

Yep! I applied the 88 adhesive to both surfaces as well... as per the 88 directions for maximum adhesion.

It takes up to a week or more for the 88 adhesive to cure out fully, depending on the surrounding temps.

For the contact cement, use 2 coats letting the first coat dry on the vinyl. The backing on the vinyl is rather porous and sucks up the first coat, just one coat on the epoxied wood is fine because the epoxy doesn't absorb the contact cement.
 

harleynut

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I'm planning to wrap some of my ply in regular marine vinyl for the console to match some of the existing dash. Is it best to use a contact cement, something like a marine carpet adhesive, or spray on a 3M Super 90 adhesive?

Also, I will be riveting my flooring that is covered in Nautolex using aluminum large flange rivets as recommended earlier in the post. Should I be looking at steel or aluminum mandrels? I was thinking I would go with the Series 6 as described here: http://www.rivetsonline.com/aluminum-steel-mandrel-w-large-flange-head.html.

Would the Series 5 work as well? (
0.469 head size compared to 0.625)
 

harleynut

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Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

The original battery was placed in the rear deck on the port side. I would like to move the battery to starboard side but still keeping it in the rear deck. I am concerned about the weight distribution and the fact in the new location the fuel filler line passes through. See photo. Is it OK to move the battery? Moving it frees up a bunch of space for me for storage.
DSC01061.jpg DSC01065a.jpg
 

Sparike

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Soooo I searched high and low for some direction on a project like this---how did you feel now 7 years later??? what would you have changed??
 

jbcurt00

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Soooo I searched high and low for some direction on a project like this---how did you feel now 7 years later??? what would you have changed??

harleynut hasnt been on iboats in over a year. Not likely to get or reply to your query

closed

Sparike Please obserce the 90day inactivity rule, after no new posts for 90days, consider inactive topics closed
 
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