1991 Alpha 1 Gen 2 Bellows and Gimbal Bearing Job

[Roadblock007]

Yep. Holds the limit switch wires to the water hose on the port side. Stops them getting crushed by moving bits during turning and trimming.

Achris or Bondo. Since I found the water hose clip on the ground I'm not really sure where or how it goes back on

 

[achris]

See the 'bump' at the top. That's where the trim limit switch wires go. Push the clip over the water hose, 'trapping' the limit switch wires.

 

[Roadblock007]

See the 'bump' at the top. That's where the trim limit switch wires go. Push the clip over the water hose, 'trapping' the limit switch wires.

Found the location on page 4A-11. Thanks for the help.

 

[Roadblock007]

Finally got the shift cable in but kinked it when I tightened it so I'm not going to risk it. Buying a new one again. Is there a trick to getting it into the cable bellow? And how do you tighten the cable at the out drive without it twisting inside the boat?

 

[achris]

It's always going to twist, that's what tightening it up does. The 'trick' is to get yourself a helper, who will hold the end of the cable and twist it was you tighten, thereby, not damaging it...

Getting it into the bellows? Dishwashing liquid. I think you guys call it dish soap.

Chris.......

 

[cchamp]

I hope you don't mind but I'm gonna jump in on your thread as I'm tackling the same job. I am replacing seals on the lower unit and have to wait 10 days for the shift shaft bushing to arrive. Since I already have the outdrive off and have to wait a couple of weeks thought this was the time to go for a bellows/gimbal bearing job as I already have the parts. Tonight i attempted to remove the bell housing and was able to remove the trim senders and hinge pins. I got to the point where it appeared there were two connections remaining, one being shift cable and the other I assume is the gear lube hose. Is that the small diameter black hose that I see or something else?

Anyway- what is the best way to disconnect without having to replace the shift cable? I assume I'm going to cut and replace the gear lube hose as its 17 years old. My shift cable bellows was replaced last summer (by someone who said they also replaced the gimbal bearing (but today I realized they did not). Am I going to have to cut the shift cable and replace or is there some other way to detach the bell housing without doing that?

 

[achris]

You could pull the shift cable out through the bellows (remembering to tie a line to it so you can pull it back in through the right path )...

You don't really need to fully remove the bell housing. I have replaced many uni and exhaust bellows without removing the shift cable. You just need to work a little more carefully so as not to kink it...

Chris.......

 

[Roadblock007]

Got it all done but ripped the shift bellows when I was removing the kinked cable. Had to go buy another one. So the hinge pins are in and everything between the transom and bell housing is complete. Tomorrow I will pop on the out drive and attach the trim limit switches and adjust the shift cable on the engine side. Then need to put it on the muffs and fire it up and make sure its shifts properly. Then regrease the gimbal bearing and hinge pins and celebrate.

 

[cchamp]

You could pull the shift cable out through the bellows (remembering to tie a line to it so you can pull it back in through the right path )...

You don't really need to fully remove the bell housing. I have replaced many uni and exhaust bellows without removing the shift cable. You just need to work a little more carefully so as not to kink it...

Chris.......

Makes complete sense. Regarding the small diameter black tube, is that the 54 inch gear lube line that goes through the transom to the gear lube reservoir?


One other related question, I started the repair in one location and am going to move it to my garage this weekend (damn HOA's will get on me if I have my boat in the driveway for more than a couple of days at a time). What is the best way to secure the trim cylinders for about a 7 mile drive? Should I just detach them?

 

[achris]

Makes complete sense. Regarding the small diameter black tube, is that the 54 inch gear lube line that goes through the transom to the gear lube reservoir?

Yes. Attaches to the front of the bell housing on the starboard side.

One other related question, I started the repair in one location and am going to move it to my garage this weekend (damn HOA's will get on me if I have my boat in the driveway for more than a couple of days at a time). What is the best way to secure the trim cylinders for about a 7 mile drive? Should I just detach them?

Tell the HOA it's YOUR house and they can go play with themselves! (That's what I'd do). They have no legal jurisdiction, so they can't actually do anything...

As for tying up the cylinder, couple of bits of rope would be fine.

Chris.......

 

[cchamp]

Yes. Attaches to the front of the bell housing on the starboard side.



Tell the HOA it's YOUR house and they can go play with themselves! (That's what I'd do). They have no legal jurisdiction, so they can't actually do anything...

As for tying up the cylinder, couple of bits of rope would be fine.

Chris.......

No doubt, cannot stand them. We will be moving soon.

So I understand the alternative would be to clip the shift cable, remove the bell housing, and lead a replacement in through the transom side pulling it through when replacing?

 

[achris]

The line doesn't pass THROUGH the gimbal housing. It pushes onto a small plastic fitting, which breaks really easily, and is a dog to replace. The fitting to bell housing is only about 200mm long.

Chris.....

 

[Roadblock007]

I'm trying to set up the shift cable at the engine and the manual isn't really clear. Do I put the drive all the way down and gear in forward or neutral?

 

[jonny rotten]

Great thread. I'm doing the same job with possibly the same kit. I have everything apart and ready for install.
My plan is to wire brush on a drill to clean surface area where the bellows mount. Then the adhesive. What did you not like about the adhesive job the first time?
Then attach u joint bellow on boat side first, a youtube video showed using zip ties to pull bellow back and attach on the bell housing. Seemed like a good idea?
I'm just using a tube for the exhaust bellow for ease of install.
I just started a thread on the easiest order to install the bellows before I saw this thread. What order would you consider the easiest including the shifter boot.

Any and all tips welcome as I'm right in the middle of the project

 

[cchamp]

I'm trying to set up the shift cable at the engine and the manual isn't really clear. Do I put the drive all the way down and gear in forward or neutral?

Found this video. Appears to be excellent:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZN-HHuIDPI&t=217s

 

[Roadblock007]

Found this video. Appears to be excellent:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZN-HHuIDPI&t=217s

I watched that one. My cables are on top of the rocker cover, not at the side by the manifold and I didn't remove the upper shift cable at all. I think I did it correctly. I tested it out on muffs and the boat shifted into forward and reverse while running so should be ok.

 

[achris]

Drive should be trimmed at or near the down position. Have a look at my video for setting up the cable. (Link at the bottom of my signature)

Chris....

 

[Roadblock007]

Thanks Chris, that is the procedure I followed. One more thing I noticed. I've had the boat for 4 years now and I only did the gimbal bearing because I was doing everything else anyway. I didn't think it was bad and it hasn't given me any trouble. Once everything was together I set up the tilt and trim switches so I had to turn the drive side to side. It was WAY easier. Before I would push quite a bit, now one hand and significantly less force. Hoping that's a good thing.

 

[achris]

Thanks Chris, that is the procedure I followed. One more thing I noticed. I've had the boat for 4 years now and I only did the gimbal bearing because I was doing everything else anyway.

Generally, the gimbal bearing only needs to be replaced if it's noisy or seized, or if there's been water in the bellows. Mine is still original, as are the shift cable and unis. This idea that 'if I'm in there I might as well replace it' is just making the manufacturers richer. My unis and gimbal are sealed, non-greaseable, and they are still 'as new' at 14 years old. Don't replace things that don't need replacing.

I didn't think it was bad and it hasn't given me any trouble. Once everything was together I set up the tilt and trim switches so I had to turn the drive side to side. It was WAY easier. Before I would push quite a bit, now one hand and significantly less force. Hoping that's a good thing.

You have a 3 litre, and I suspect that it doesn't have power steering. When pushing the drive across, the only opposing force you should experience is the drag in the steering cable and the helm. If you push it slowly, it should be just about effortless. The faster you push, the stiffer it will be.

Chris.......

 

[cchamp]

Anyone have a crafty way to get the 5/8ths nut off the shift cable without the special tool? Have it ordered...but its not going to be here for a few days.