1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

slow joe

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Oct 23, 2013
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Brandon
You look like you're moving a lot quicker on yours than I am on mine, however now that the engine is out once the cap is popped on mine I should make quick work of it as well.. I'll be keeping an eye on your thread to see the progress. Good lock with yours as well! I'm sure it'll turn out very nice!
 

bvetter

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 2, 2013
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Once you get that engine out of the way, you'll have all the room in the world (or your boat at least) to work! Things will really pick up.

Once you get to the grinding, I recommend using resin grinding discs with the plastic backing pad. I used 36 grit and it absolutely chewed through the glass, making a quick job of it. I have seen other people in the forum use flap discs, but the general feeling I got was that the resin discs lasted longer, and they're cheap. The plastic backing pad was about $6 and a 5 pack of 36 grit discs were around $10. These were 5" discs. Here is what I used.



 
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slow joe

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Oct 23, 2013
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Thanks for the heads up. I was actually out looking at discs and flap wheels today trying to decide what to buy and walked away figuring I'll buy them after I pop the cap this week.

The engine is out and out of the way, I just need to get the cap off and find a spot for my convertible and grinding will commence.
 

glnbnz

Chief Petty Officer
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Oct 4, 2011
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Looks good but be extremely careful with your grinder and that configuration. That grinding disc will chew right through your gloves!! Just some friendly advice :)
 

slow joe

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Oct 23, 2013
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

:lol: I had some bad luck with a log splitter chewing through some gloves at the end of 2013. Luckily my thumb didn't get in there (it was close)!! I'll make sure to take caution with that setup.

Tonight we got the rub rail off, cap loose, I disconnected the rest of the wiring (it's attached to both the cap and the hull... I'll revise that when I'm putting it back together.

Unfortunately my buddy and I couldn't lift the cap off. Just curious should I remove the windshield or leave it on?

If I take it off that'll lighten it up, however if I leave it on that's less reassembly in the end.

I'll leave you all with this wonderful pic... I'm guessing that either the cap was off before, or the rubrail was replaced at one point... So many holes!!!

 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Windshield OFF.

Less weight to lift, but more importantly, less weight helps prevent cracking the gunwales at the windshield. Still need to brace the consoles to keep them from sagging.
 

slow joe

Seaman
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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Windshield off it is! I'll do that Thursday most likely, get the rest of everything in the boat cleaned up (it's a disaster) then I'm out of town so I won't get back at this until the 17th... :-/ But then hopefully the cap comes off and I can make short work of a lot of this demolition. :)
 
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Woodonglass

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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Just a check...Have you taken ALL your internal measurements prior to the cap removal???
 

slow joe

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Oct 23, 2013
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Woodonglass, that's a great point. I haven't yet. I'm going to do the final measurements (prior to cap removal) once I clean out the boat. -- Right now the boat is housing a handful (plus) of tools, a shop vac and some other misc stuff.. Luckily the cap is still on at this point otherwise I may have had an issue. -- I was getting all crazy happy removing things last night, and if we would have had enough people to lift it off it would be off right now.

The only part that I can't take measurements of is the front section of the boat since the cap has the seats/dash/a part of the floor built in and the only way to measure up there is to remove the cap, then cut out the floor under the floor for stringers.

Thanks for the reminder!!
 

slow joe

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Oct 23, 2013
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Alright guys, I'm starting to get some of the safety stuff out of the way for the project. What respirators do you guys buy? I'm looking at the 3M 6311 (3M Tekk Protection Paint Project Respirator in Large-6311PA1-A at The Home Depot) and the 3M 62023HA1 (3M Tekk Protection Professional Multi-Purpose Respirator-62023HA1-A at The Home Depot)

Also on the Tyvek suits I'm assuming that I should buy the ones made for using with fiberglass insulation, not the general purpose ones.

Just want to get this stuff out of the way. I bought the resin discs, gloves and a few other things today in preparation.
 

Natesms

Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 8, 2012
Messages
464
Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

I think what you have listed there will work fine however you have 2 overall needs. Grinding you need to filter the dust. Those will work but you will be changing the filters out during the processes as they will clog. When you do the glass work you need to filter the vapors.

I actually used a cheap respirator from harbor freight. Worked great for me. Now if I was doing this full time I would probably look higher end.

Ty vex for the fiberglass insulation should work well. The dust is unreal. If you are doing this in your garage don't forget to cover the doors and any vents to keep it out of the house. If you can do it outside that would probably be better.
 

Woodonglass

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Messages
25,929
Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

The fully hooded Tyvek Suit sold @ HD will be just fine. Tape the Ankles and Wrists to get a good Seal. Dust yourself down with Baby Powder really well before suiting up especially your face, neck and arms. It will really help keep the itch down. I prefer a Full face respirator over the ones you list but if your not going to get a FF then those listed are not bad. You can get a FF from Amazon for $80 bucks. Filters for another $20. 3M 1840700 Cartridge & Airline Full-Facepiece Respirator Full Facepiece, S - Amazon.com

You only get one set of lungs in your life. This dust is some Bad Stuff!!!! I put this list together to help newbs' with what all they'll need in the course of their restore. It's not 100% but it's a start...

(Click the pic to Download and View the PDF File)

View attachment MaterialsList.pdf
 

bvetter

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 2, 2013
Messages
263
Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

+1 on the full face mask. I bought just a standard half mask, but if I were to do it again I would go with the full face.

Three reasons:
1 - Better eye protection. Regular safety glasses only protect from direct contact, but there is no seal around the glasses so dust (and there is alot of it) easily gets in behind. You can get a set of sealed goggles, which I ended up getting but there were issues with fogging.
2 - Fogging. Even with a good seal around the half mask, some air may exit around the nose piece when you exhale, this will fog up your glasses and becomes a pain in the @$$. A full face mask should eliminate this problem.
3 - Dust. You'll find that that whatever you're wearing for eye protection, it will need to be cleaned every 5 minutes while grinding. With safety glasses, you have to clean both sides of the lens because dust gets in behind. With a full face mask, the inside would be clean, the only the outside would need to be wiped.

With either a full or half mask, be sure to be clean shaven that day, especially where the face piece seals on your skin. Even one day's growth can severely impact the seal which is ultra important when inhaling. You can check the seal by putting the face mask on with the cartridges removed, cover the cartridge ports with your hands to seal them up, then inhale. The mask should suck tight to your face without letting any air in.

When you do get to the point where you're grinding, if you have to do it in your garage, I would highly recommend you tarp in your boat with dropcloths or cheap vapour barrier. That dust is going to get on absolutely everything in your shop, and it's a pain to vacuum it all up. Here is a pic of what I ended up doing, even with this, there was still a little bit of dust that got out.



On the second day of grinding, I opened up all of the garage doors (we had a nice day out for once), to let a breeze flow through which really helped out with the dust that got out of the tarps. The other thing I did on the second day was brought my shopvac right in the boat with me and ran it the whole time I was grinding. I have a HEPA filter in the vac, and it really worked wonders with the level of dust, I kept the hose hear the area I was grinding and it sucked up a lot of the dust. I could see way better, didn't have to clean my glasses as often, and my particulate filters on my mask didn't need to be changed as often. I did however have to shut the vac down and pound out the filter every 10 minutes or so.

Here is a photo of what it looked like inside the "tent" right after my first day of grinding, I was not running the shop vac that day.

 

glnbnz

Chief Petty Officer
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Oct 4, 2011
Messages
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Yeah trying to vacuum fiberglass dust is like trying to vacuum up toner its a real PITA!!!
 

Natesms

Chief Petty Officer
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Messages
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

+1 on using the shopvac while grinding. It by no means gets it all right away but every little bit helps!
 

slow joe

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Well, I got the more expensive of the masks that I posted, not a full face mask... Maybe I should have bought one of those... I guess I can always order one if this one isn't sufficient once I start.

Since I'm back in town (had an out of town work meeting last week) I'll be able to hopefully make some headway as long as it stops snowing. This week I need to get the gas tank drained and out, document the stringers and take some other measurements, get storage straightened out for my convertible and all of the extra boat parts, and pop the cap... It doesn't seem like much, but it'll be a lot of work. Then hopefully next week I can start removing and grinding... It seriously just feels like this is taking forever and I know it's because I haven't had much time to put into it yet...
 

bvetter

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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Like they say, 10% of the work will take 90% of the time....
 

slow joe

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Oct 23, 2013
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Well, I've accomplished some of the above, and some other things...

While I was out of town, my car (Saab 9-5 Tow-Saab) as we called it, decided it was time to have some exhaust issues... As well as some other issues. So I added finding a new tow rig to my list... See below :)

So I've gotten storage for our convertible, and moved most things there (still have some stuff to move).
Removed the gas tank.
Purchased a new tow rig.

Gotta love it when unplanned things come up...

This week, I'm going to take measurements, pop the cap, and hopefully remove the rest of the stringers and floor...

Here are some pics, just for the hell of it...

The gas tank is out!


Good Old Tow Saab! -- 2007 Saab 9-5 Aero


My new Tow Rig -- 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Hemi


And just a bit of humor... When I bought it, I didn't realize that it didn't have a factory hitch. -- Either did my wife, and she's pretty observant. I've since ordered the factory hitch, and wiring harness... Luckily the Hemi ones come with the oil and trans coolers, plus the bigger brakes standard...
 
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slow joe

Seaman
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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Re: 1991 Conquest 1650 "Restoration"

Alright, so I'm putting together the list of things to buy, this way I have all of the stuff for when I get it all removed... Woodonglass I'm using your list since my boat is 16.5' I'd think that it would be at least close.

Here are a few of my questions...

Will that be accurate, or should I order more? I plan on putting in the stringers with PB.
How much foam should I order?
How much/what type of gelcoat should I order for the deck? I plan on rolling it out.

I'm trying to get this all ordered from US Composites (or if anyone knows a place up here in WI with this stuff that has it for a good deal I'd check there too..

Here is the current list I have going...
435 Poly Resin 20 Gal
Cabosil 4 Gal
Chopped Strand Fibers 1lb 1/4"
1.5OZ CSM 25 yds x 50"
1708 Biax Cloth 15 yds x 50"
 
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