1991 rinker trolling motor help!

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hbryant123

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Hello all, i have a1991 rinker v170, i am wanting to convert it to more of a fish and ski. I bought a minn kota powerdrive trolling motor. I can remove the triangle section of railing easy. The issue is i cannoumt get under the fiberglass to add any braces or bolts. Is there anything to help me around this issue?
 

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alldodge

alldodge

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The issue is i cannoumt get under the fiberglass to add any braces or bolts. Is there anything to help me around this issue?
Click to expand...

I think you can get under there just need to figure out how. That was easy to say, but doing it might be a bot harder. Need to get inspection camera and have a look inside. While it's not the first choice you could cut through the top and replace, reglass it back in.

Remove your bow light and see what is under it
 
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fhhuber

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http://www.amazon.com/Motorguide-Tro.../dp/B015ZPFLSK
(iboats should have it but the pic flashes up in search then goes to not found)

These stock bow mount trolling motor fittings are interesting and strange things... there's basically a tapered nut in a tube. You just drill the hole, insert the thing and pull it up tight with the screw., very similar to a "molly bolt"

You don't HAVE TO get underside access.

these things are guaranteed to fail in about 2 years around here (fresh water... but high temperatures in the summer)
Its better to gain access and use real nuts and large washers... But this gets it done. Not too awful to replace them (our local boat dealer will give the unused ones away when they install a new trolling motor and used nuts + washers)

The holes need to be as snug as you can get the rubber piece through for best result.

Most Bass boats have a panel at the bow for some switches plus the trolling motor plug-in.... sometimes some repeater gauges and more.
Pull the panel and you can reach in and place the nuts and large washers.
 
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hbryant123

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Thanks for the replys, tomorrow i will investigate further. I have been playing with the idea of building a removable wood platform that will hold the troller, battery and chair. That way i do not have to drill into my boat and it can be taken off for general boating.
 
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Woodonglass

Woodonglass

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I'm pretty sure if you remove the Back of the seats you'll have access under the bow. If not it would be easy enuf to cut it out to make access and then either put it back with a Hinge for future access or glass it back in permanently once you got the reinforcement installed.
 
gm280

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There are so many ways to attach the trolling motor that it really is up to what you want to do. The rubber "T" looking bolts do work well and I used that method for years without any issues. Removing the seat back is also a great choice too. Basically anyway you want to do it will work. Some ideas require more effort, but allow for a more permanent secure as well. Whatever way you decide to go, make sure your bow navigation lighting is also raised above the trolling motor so other boaters can see you at night time. JMHO!
 
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hbryant123

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gm280 said:
There are so many ways to attach the trolling motor that it really is up to what you want to do. The rubber "T" looking bolts do work well and I used that method for years without any issues. Removing the seat back is also a great choice too. Basically anyway you want to do it will work. Some ideas require more effort, but allow for a more permanent secure as well. Whatever way you decide to go, make sure your bow navigation lighting is also raised above the trolling motor so other boaters can see you at night time. JMHO!
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Hey thanks for the advice, i checked and there is not an access hole behind the seat. What would the best way to cut it out? Also the seat backs are screwed on from behind the actual seat. Ide assume the boat was built as a top half and bottom half then put together.

By the way was is the namr of those t bolts??
 
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hbryant123

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Couple pics from today.
 

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gm280

gm280

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hbryant123, I have no idea what the real name is for those bolts with the rubber insert nuts, but some places list them as trolling motor mounting bolts. They are available here on iboats as well and listed as MotorGuide Mounting Isolator Kit. If you go this way to mount the trolling motor, all you have to do is drill the holes from the top side and insert the rubber insert nuts and then use the regular bolts to tighten it down. Everything you need comes in the kit. Just make sure where you are drilling that there is no below surface problems or issues and you should be good to go.

When I mount any trolling motor, I try my best to have it mounted so that when it is deployed in the run position, it sits dead smack at the very center point on the bow. That way you won't experience any tendencies to have steering issues one side or the other. But some others say it doesn't matter. It really depends on the type of hull design I guess. But I have heard that if it is off-center, they have more issues with the steering to one side verses the other side. :noidea:

If you go with the cut out idea behind the seat, simple remove the seat back and use a small drill bit to drill a small hole and then use a saber-saw (jigsaw) with a fine tooth blade and make a nice cutout to allow your arm to reach in. Save the cutout and either install a hinge on it to allow you to open and close it as you need, OR use some quality sealant like 3M 5200 and glue the cutout back in place after you mount the trolling motor. With the seat back installed again, it will never be noticed. And to keep from marring the finish when cutting, use either masking tape or duct tape on the finish and draw your cutout pattern on top of the tape. It will keep from chipping out the finish and stop mar-marks as well. JMHO!
 
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hbryant123

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gm280 said:
hbryant123, I have no idea what the real name is for those bolts with the rubber insert nuts, but some places list them as trolling motor mounting bolts. They are available here on iboats as well and listed as MotorGuide Mounting Isolator Kit. If you go this way to mount the trolling motor, all you have to do is drill the holes from the top side and insert the rubber insert nuts and then use the regular bolts to tighten it down. Everything you need comes in the kit. Just make sure where you are drilling that there is no below surface problems or issues and you should be good to go.

When I mount any trolling motor, I try my best to have it mounted so that when it is deployed in the run position, it sits dead smack at the very center point on the bow. That way you won't experience any tendencies to have steering issues one side or the other. But some others say it doesn't matter. It really depends on the type of hull design I guess. But I have heard that if it is off-center, they have more issues with the steering to one side verses the other side. :noidea:

If you go with the cut out idea behind the seat, simple remove the seat back and use a small drill bit to drill a small hole and then use a saber-saw (jigsaw) with a fine tooth blade and make a nice cutout to allow your arm to reach in. Save the cutout and either install a hinge on it to allow you to open and close it as you need, OR use some quality sealant like 3M 5200 and glue the cutout back in place after you mount the trolling motor. With the seat back installed again, it will never be noticed. And to keep from marring the finish when cutting, use either masking tape or duct tape on the finish and draw your cutout pattern on top of the tape. It will keep from chipping out the finish and stop mar-marks as well. JMHO!
Click to expand...


Toggle bolts! found them at the local menards store!!

https://www.google.com/search?q=tog...5.6155j1j4&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8

I found them!

Next step for me is get some heat going where i store my boat and begin to investigate some more. To me installing a quick release mount, and actually bracing and bolting it down seems smartest if i can do it, then i can make a removable platform to set down on my seats, cover it with some carpet and installed a fishing chair. Next time I work on this i will add better photos!
 
gm280

gm280

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Hbryant, I do understand the heat issue in the work area. Hard to do quality work if you are not comfortable or can't even move your hands to work. :eek:

If you go the toggle bolts route over the normal MotorGuide Mounting Isolator setup, make sure of two things. First that the bolts are capable of enduring water and not rust and that they can handle all the bumps and knocks your trolling motor will see. Hitting a stump while trolling exerts a lot of force on the mounting setup. If you go totally solid, it can work on the hull material. That is why they offer the isolator "T" rubber setup to give a little. Some trolling motors have shock absorbing setups built into the mount. If so, that certainly will help tons.

And one last thing to remember, if you go the toggle bolt setup, don't remove the bolt ever because the toggle flange below the hull will drop out never to be used again. So you will have to install all the toggle bolts through the trolling motor mount initially, and then install all the bolts at the same time through the hull and tighten. Otherwise you will never get it to mount. And you can't remove those bolts or you will have to buy new ones to reinstall again in the sequenced order. JMHO!
 
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hbryant123

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Did a little more investigating found my backrests are about rottes away! I also found i have plenty of space to cut a small access hole. I think that will be my plan. Then use a composite quick release mount.
 

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hbryant123

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This here is the mount. I read good reviews!
 

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alldodge

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You could add an access cover and then add clips to reinstall the seat
yhst-70220623433298_2272_322073141.jpg
 
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hbryant123

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Decided on builsing a removable platform!
 

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