1991 StarCraft Islander 221v - with 4.3 v6 i/o conversion to bracket and total resto

[ShowMeGuy]

Kewl Project.... Did you ever say what you were planning on for knee braces??

I would have to have some wood cribbing vs cinder blocks for me to be rolling around under it though. I'm a skerdy kat I guess....

 

[Rich11304]

ShowMeguys - The boat empty is less than 800 so I'm not too worry. Boat has to be back on trailer tonight for the Code Compliance tomorrow. I'm almost finished with paint removal. Will plug more holes today as well. I got my Alodine 1201 yesterday. Game plan for when everything is ready is going to be: 1. Pressure clean the hull after we sanded every inch. 2. Alumprep, rinse with water and let dry 3. Apply alodine with sponges on all surfaces rinse with water and let dry. 4. Apply a thin coat of Gluvit and wait until tacky. Apply 2nd coat of Gluvit and wait until tacky. Apply third coat of gluvit and go to sleep. 6. Figure out how to treat Gluvit before applying primer.

 

[jbcurt00]

Most don't put GluvIt on the exterior of the hull. Its fairly thin and runny, might make it tough to apply 'neatly'.

What's the reasoning behind using it on the exterior and do you plan to coat the entire lower hull, or just seams and rivets on the exterior? Barrier coat and antifoul might be a better choice if it's saltwater or mooring protection you're after.

 

[Rich11304]

JBCurt - I'm looking to seal the boat and insulate the hull from salt water. Some use Gluvit on river boats on the outside to protect hull and help glide over rocks. I've got a good primer call Aluthane. I'm keeping an open mind.

 

[Watermann]

I agree ^^^ Gluvit is not meant to be used on the outer hull rather inside on all the seams and rivets. I would add that I have always put gluvit on bare clean AL, not over anything else for fear it would not adhere properly. I've used Gluvit on 2 restorations now and I can tell you it won't lay down after being painted on. It will run, pool, sag and every other bad verb you can think of. Gluvit will not tack up either like you want, it will take several hours.

Unless of course your painting the inside of the hull and bottom then painting over something that can't be seen would be alright although a waste of expensive materials.

:how about you put some 2x6's across the trailer frames and put the boat back on it in the turtle position. When the Gestapo come by to hound you say "what? it's on the trailer"

 

[Rich11304]

Waterman - I appreciate the comments and ideas although the turtle position is not an option. I saw your restoration project. Awesome!!! Very inspiring. I hope you enjoy tha beauty for many years to come.

 

[Rich11304]

Photo Update 1 -

 

[Rich11304]

Photo update 2 -

 

[Rich11304]

Photo update 3 -

 

[Tnstratofam]

Working from that position is bound to be super tiring. Looks like you're getting there though. It bites that your neighbors don't appreciate big tin restoration. When you're finished and enjoying the fruits of your labors make sure and give them a big wave from the water. I hope they become green with envy.

 

[Watermann]

Waterman - I appreciate the comments and ideas although the turtle position is not an option. I saw your restoration project. Awesome!!! Very inspiring. I hope you enjoy tha beauty for many years to come.

Yeah sorry the cabin, rails and such are not going to allow for that turtle. For some reason I thought you did a complete tear down but now that I think of it I don't know of anyone pulling their Islander cabin other than bow/cabin hacker threads.

Thanks for stopping by my Chief thread :yo:

 

[64osby]

Hopefully your Code Compliance Enforcer is a boat lover. Maybe review all the rules so you are fully versed in what is black and white. Then figure out what is grey and do that.

My lawyer taught me that when there are no rules that apply you can make your own.

 

[Rich11304]

64osby - It's a lady and she 's working with me but because it's a complaint its a little different. She's already told me her days off so the boat goes back on blocks for three days a week. My sons and I will have a lot of practice blocking our boats. My goal is to go under 30 min.

 

[Rich11304]

Update - I'm strongly considering applying a product call "Steelflex" as my barrier for the bottom of the hull. I experimented on my gas tank and part of the transom. The gas tank was already coated with Gluvit. It's not easy to apply. You have to brush it and go over with a foam brush behind but it dries hard. They use it on air boats bottom. It was easier to apply on the sanded transom than the epoxied fuel tank. I'll post pictures of gas tank soon.

 

[Watermann]

Your not the first I've seen use the steel flex. Take a look.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...t-70-s-sea-nymph-ss160-1668/page3#post6521640

 

[Rich11304]

Watermann - I hope it works upside down as well. Thanks for the post.

 

[Rich11304]

March Update 1 - Port side hull is 98% done.

 

[Rich11304]

March Update 2 - Starboard side is 85% done.

 

[Rich11304]

March 3 - Transom is 100% done.

 

[Watermann]

Very nice to have that job behind you ! :thumb: