1992 16.5 Mirrocraft Pro Fisherman Rebuild

[munster04]

Maybe for the fuel filler?

Can't see that since the fuel tank was under the splashwell. I was thinking maybe the livewell pump before they pulled out the livewell. Just strange place since it was covered up.

Munster

 

[munster04]

WOW! Have you thought about installing a length of PVC pipe down the center of the hull to run wiring through? I painted the inside of my boat with Rustoleum industrial gray primer and Industrial Gray paint from spray cans. My project is down on page 66 1988 Alumacraft Lunker redo. I'm going to follow this project as it is interesting

Just read your post again. Interesting idea regarding the wires. I do this on my trails to keep them from getting cut up and easy to replace. Now you got me think about the bow battery, speakers, LED lights, Navigation lights, power anchor wires that have to be installed in the bow. easy enough to install and zip to the stringers. I'll have to either raise it off the bottom or put a fitting on it to keep the opening up. Just think of the possible water issues.

I'll look at your build when I get back from Menards and HD. I'm getting more plywood and picking up one pink sheet for testing. Need to add side storage option.

Munster

 

[munster04]

Post #9 shows what I did. The material above the weld line is new. When you take that huge splashwell out it sorta makes you feel like you're going to sink so I built it up a bit! This time I built a slightly taller and wider splashwell because I'm adding a bench seat, the casting deck will be about 4 or 5 " higher. The first splashwell was just a bit too narrow so the steering arm hit it and I lost some turning radius. I also have a 90 hp and have no problems tilting all the way up.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...redoing-the-ugly-duck-my-18ft-aluminum-sylvan

Okay that does give a lot of room. I was thinking you chopped your splashwell down by 6" to 10" not remove it completely. Ever think about Wave Wackers/splash guards for the outside? That would allow you to open the sides up more without water coming back into the boat.

Munster

 

[sublauxation]

It's hard to tell from the pic but I added about 7 inches to the height so water coming in isn't all that big a deal unless I do something drastic. I wish I would have welded over the old splashwell drain hole and raised it up a couple inches though as with somebody heavier standing on the back deck it's just above the water line.
That splashwell takes up a lot of space, I think the deck on mine is 31 inches long minus about 12 in the middle where the splashwell is.

 

[munster04]

It's hard to tell from the pic but I added about 7 inches to the height so water coming in isn't all that big a deal unless I do something drastic. I wish I would have welded over the old splashwell drain hole and raised it up a couple inches though as with somebody heavier standing on the back deck it's just above the water line.
That splashwell takes up a lot of space, I think the deck on mine is 31 inches long minus about 12 in the middle where the splashwell is.

I see you're in Minn.. Check out CL for "2014 Crestliner 1650 Bench Seat" under boat parts. I was thinking about that since the Crestliner boats bench seat becomes a casting deck. Two birds one stone as they say. Great idea if the colors are wrong.

 

[fishin98]

I saw the comments you wrote on my wiring...Thanks! The fuse box and switch panel are Blue Sea products. In my opinion which are the BEST you can buy and install. Many people doing a Rehab/Rebuild neglect to upgrade from the OLD factory wiring and fuse panels and switches.

 

[munster04]

Fishin98, I don't have a choice I have to rewire the complete boat. The old wires had lots of splits or not working for one reason or another. I've used the Blue Sea in a ice house project and agree.

I'll post the pictures as I progress. Still working on the corrosion issue.

Munster

 

[munster04]

No Title

Good evening everyone, Well I've been working on the transom more this afternoon. Turns out the guy covered it with body filler before painting. One of the rivets in the close up transom picture all in red is completely hidden. Now here's my question. Option 1 would place center section only covering up the holes. I would use rivets on both options after think about what jbcurt00 said in his post. You can see the red lines showing where the center skin would be place. It would sit 1/4" left and lower than the current rivets holding the transom support. Option 2 would be a full skin over hard to see but you can see the red dotted lines around transom. The rivets would be placed every 3/4" around the transom roughly 5/8" from the edge. The center skin would only help with screw placement since two locations are destroyed with larger holes. The full skin would be both visional and functional filling with new holes drilled for all locations. Not sure about the top edge if it should be rivetted completely of random since it's covered. I would still fill all holes with JB Weld and filling the completely inside of the transom with Metal-2-metal. What do you guys think? Munster

 

[munster04]

A little progress today. All the sanding is done. Got the first two sections of the floor cut. I'll finish the last one tonight if doesn't rain. Then I get to seal them.

 

[munster04]

I'm wondering if I should add a Transom setback? I have the trim and tilt on the motor but they are two completely different functions. I've read a lot of post both positive and some negative regarding them. No really sure what setback depth i would need if I add one. Looks like I can get the 5.5" hydraulic version for $300.

Load question but other than getting into shallow water is it worth the money?

I don't run full speed unless I'm trying to get out of a storm.


Oh... I've been working on the transom holes. My neighbor is an auto body guy with 25 years. When I got the transom all cleaned up it was not as bad as I had thought. There are a lot of pin holes but easy to fix. He told me he uses metal-2-metal on aluminum a lot. Since its made to flex it will hold. He had me tape the outside of all the holes I wanted to fill then layer it on. The product is easy to sand since I'm not good at this type of stuff. After it dried on Saturday it was hard. A few holes did not get covered because I did not see them. The product came out like a paste. There is no way this stuff did not fix the holes. I had the hardest time getting it off the holes I missed. Ended up using my dremel.

Lots of sanding with long blocks to get everything smoothed out and even. Have a few small areas I missed but those should be done this morning. After that I'll prime and paint the transom area inside. Still have a lot more Bondo to remove from the outside. Guy ready caked it on.


Order the new steering system, fuel tank and LED light strips on Sunday. Everything should be here this week.

Floor has been treated with the 50/50 mix then topped with Spar varnish. After it sits for another day I'll rough the top and edges to allow the bed Liner to grab a hold. Can't wait to get that done. I'll start putting it back together after that.

Still have to figure out how to remove the windshield from the console. We don't see any place to access screws or rivets. I see screws coming down through the top of the console but can't find the access point. I need to replace the vinyl.

Thank you,

Munster

 

[munster04]

Update on the floor holes where the live well was removed is now fixed. All wood is cut and coated. Installing the transom on Saturday. Just want to give it another day day to cure.

The New parts have all arrived. Everything should be back in the boat on Saturday. Have to say this was a long process. The transom and the corrosion spots on the floor took the longest.

I'll find out how big a mistake I made or did not make when I four of us put the floor in the boat. I went ahead and jointed all the plywood pieces to make on long floor board. Since its marines plywood 3/4" is freaking heavy then you add the coating and it's even heavier but it solid.

Thanks to fishin98 I resigned my wiring plans. Went with the same setup as him plus I add two each positive and negative bus with a 12 fuse box system. The first set of bus are next to the two batteries. The fuse box and second set of bus are next to the new switch panel under the console.

Munster