1993 Chaparral Gemini 190: Chronicles of a New Boat Owner (Deck Rebuild) [SPLASHED June 2018]

Baylinerchuck

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That is an awful lot of surfacing wax. The place I bought mine from included it for free with the gelcoat. It was literally only 4 oz per gallon of gel. For each 8 oz of gel I would mix up, I would only use a few cc’s.
 

bpounds1991

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Nov 3, 2017
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Ohh ok, I know they include the catalyst with the gel coat but no surfacing wax, with that being the case I'll just get 1 8oz bottles (smallest option they have) since I know I'll be doing multiple coats on the deck.
 
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bpounds1991

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Finished up the final bulkhead today, couple hours of jig sawing and belt sanding without the coworker. I guess I had to take the training wheels off sometime :lol:
 

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bpounds1991

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Thanks Rem, it certainly was. Now to finish grinding the rest out for a couple more hours throughout the week.
 

bpounds1991

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Man what a frustrating day this turned into. Woke up with the intention of grinding the rest of the lip smooth and transom before putting it in the garage for the week (we're supposed to get 5 days of rain through Sunday). I got out there and realized I couldn't do that because of where the strings are attached to the front deck lip via screws, which meant I needed to get the stringers taken care of with the belt sander. I needed to take off roughly 1" of the entire 16'x2 stringers with the jig and sand them down, which just turned into me making 40 trips back and forth into the boat. After 3 hours one stringer is finished, the other first 8' of the right stringer is nearly complete, and the boat is in the garage regardless. I'll just end up having to pull it out next week and finish everything up. I was supposed to help my wife clean out the garage so we could reorganize after I finished, but that didn't end up happening...and she wasn't too happy either lol.
 

bpounds1991

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Guys, I’m in some serious need of advice. In the last few posts I went over what my coworker and I did this past weekend, and how I’ve been trying to get these stringers/bulkheads sanded down to exactly 1” below deck height on both sides. To do this we used a string line from 2 screws lightly drilled into the transom wood, running into screws in place at the bow. To get the “deck height” we took a level and essentially just penciled the line from one edge of the deck to the other across the transom...this is where my confusion starts. On the trailer and the slope of the hill we knew the level would be off, but we accounted for that in the boat and I was under the assumption that, so long as you went off the deck height itself with the pencil line, it would be level. In the pictures of my poorly drawn sketches, it shows how the measurements have changed now that we are on level ground. (Looking towards the bow) the right side was 1 1/4” high, after moving the boat to level ground the left side of the boat is now 1/2” above level. My biggest question is: do I simply level both strings all the way down, or do I adjust for the deck height and accept that the level is off? I apologize if my explanation was confusing, I can elaborate more if needed.
 

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chevymaher

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Use the tabbing marks from the old deck. Run lines between them.

I used 4 points. 2 up front and 2 on the sides where the rear bulkhead was. Mine had a 1X4 run sideways side to side under the deck originally. That was what I used to make the rear bulkhead. Those were my constant. From there I ran the string front to back the distance apart of the bulkheads. From the known level at the front the deck was. Made the center bulkhead.

Measured and made the keel board off of those. Assembled those 3 pieces and glued them down. The rest of the measurements I made off of those. Stringers etc.

The boat is going to float as it will. Just get the deck as it was to the hull. I never used a level on anything.
 

chevymaher

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Here is my jigs so to speak I made for the bulkheads. You can see the chalkline in the first pic. Over the rear board and under the first. After mass math I shimmed the front board to the level the bulkhead would be. Took measurements off of that.

I had scraps of plywood as guides for the deck level. Then made these boards. Deck level was under the front one and over the rear one. Yellow masking tape was used to just make sure the jig boards the constants didnt move from the beginning of the process to the end. End being when the main stringers were in place.

I used the main stringers and similar wood across to fabricate the outer stringers. Only level is that the deck is flat from end to end ans side to side when the stringers and bulkheads are in place. If that is as clear as mud.

I used wood as guides for measurements all the way through like that.
 

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kcassells

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A boat is never level no matter what you do. It's more of an eye, existing situations like the old flooring heights etc. You just get a feel for it. I would exagerate you height cuts simply cause you can still level it out later because you will need to BED the bulkheads and stringers into something that you cannot account for. IE hull mold transition heights, hard spots etc.
I'm sure you already know this though.
Oh yea, round off the tops a little bit and then the glass will conform to that rather than a square edge.
Looking good.
 
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bpounds1991

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Thanks for all the help guys, I'll plan on getting it as best as possible to 1" below the string line and then shimming it in the future if needed. I went and talked to the owner of Collins Craft today and he dropped my blood pressure a bit. I tend to overthink things a bit but all in all, if it's a 1/4" off side to side it's honestly not that big of a deal. Looking to start gluing everything in next weekend.
 

devildogae

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Jan 14, 2017
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I've just spend the morning at work here going over your build. It's very familiar, mine was very similar in design also. I am gearing up for another build this spring/summer, it gets in you, it's addictive. But anyways, subbed this, and I noticed nobody has said this yet. Its possible that the fiberglass has flexed out since you removed all the stringers and transom. If the hull is supported well then it shouldn't be much of a problem, and I think yours was supported, but you don't want to build this boat back and put the deck in and find out it has flexed out to much to get the cap back on. This happened to me, so I know it does happen. Take some measurements of the cap going down the sides and front to back. Make sure your hull will fit back in. If not, then you will need to pull the sides in before you start glassing in the structures. Just want to make sure your successful. BTW your doing amazing and at a staggering fast pace.
 

bpounds1991

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Thanks Devil, we put a 2x4" frame around the sides to support the frame and I'll be adding jack stands to help keep that propped up. On top of that, there's a 2" strap in the back, as well as a 1" strap in the front that keep those 2 areas at measurement of the top cap. We'll be taking more measurements next weekend before we glue the transom in, which ultimately is the goal as well as possibly gluing the stringers/bulkheads down.
 

Baylinerchuck

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I’m late to the comments here. I found, much to my chagrin, that neither side of my boat was built to exacting specification, certainly not to each other. You just got to get it somewhat close. The factory didn’t put the deck in with levels, so nothing to worry about. You’ll be able to tweak things here and there to make up for slight discrepancies in the deck. No worries.
 

oldrem

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Nov 7, 2013
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Won't really matter since a boat with gear and people is never truly level on the water for more than a few seconds at a time.
 

Timr71

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Jul 19, 2012
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Yeah, I hear you Bayliner Chuck. My boat is not a mirror image of itself on either side either. I had to make wedge shaped shims for my Bimini mounts to sit on. So, I measured up what I needed on the starboard side and made 2. When I mocked it up on that driver's side it was great. Go around to the other side...WTF? It was off significantly. Threw that shim in the trash and made an entirely different one so the frame mounts would sit level. I think it was off by 1.25 inches. Crazy.
 

bpounds1991

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Nov 3, 2017
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That sounds just fine then, I'm going to aim for 1" below the string line on both sides and then shim as needed once it comes to putting the deck in. I wanted it to be perfect, but it's becoming more obvious that that won't be the case lol
 
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