Re: 1994 10hp issues Newbie to Honda
Pull out the cotter pin, then pull the clevis pin out of the assembly. This is tough, and I've never done it, but to remove the whole lower leg you unscrew that fitting at the top of the shift rod. To do that you have to remove the clamp assbly that is in the way, and with agility you can unscrew that fitting. You can then pull the leg off (after unbolting it at the bottom of course) and the whole shift rod comes out with it. Don't pull hard on the leg with that fitting still screwed to the top of the rod or it may pull the shifter wedge out of the entire gear unit.
What I did was to leave the fitting screwed to the top of the shift rod, but with the clevis pin removed. You can then pull the lower unit down maybe 6 to 8 inches or so before the fitting won't pass through the hole the rod goes through. While it doesn't allow you to remove the whole LU, it does lower it enough to easily disassemble the impeller housing. I mounted my engine on a board attached to a couple of heavy posts in the basement, and used a wood platform of the right height to support the LU while I was doing the water pump work.
When you push it back in, it is tough to get the drive shaft lined up with the crankshaft splined hole and also have the water pump impeller output tube line up with the tube that goes up to the block at the same time - you just have to sort of finesse it. Do put some grease on the splines of the driveshaft, but not at the top - that'd prevent it from seating. When you start the engine, DON'T forget to watch for water output, because if the impeller output is not lined up with the water tube, you'll burn up your block if you run it too long. I hadn't lined mine up, and forgot to initially check, but noticed it (luckily) before it heated up.