Cylinder 1 cold/warmed up. 120/118Step #1 is a compression test.----Post actual values here.
Ok. After carburators rebuilt. I reset all carb linkages, set screw according and timing the manual. Checked the primer solenoid. Its reads 4.9 ohms. And there was pressure. Did not have a syringe handy to check flow. Will have to do that.one HAL 9000 opinion...fwiw
POST YOUR MDL #
Yes — on the 1994 Evinrude E140CXERE carbureted V4, that combination of hard starting + intermittent rough idle + dying points me more toward a fuel/low-speed carburetion problem than an ignition problem, although ignition should be checked too.
I'd investigate in this order:
- Carburetor low-speed circuits
- A partially plugged idle/low-speed passage can cause exactly this.
- The engine may run reasonably once the throttle is opened, yet be difficult to start and die at idle.
- If one carburetor is affected, the engine can idle very unevenly.
- Choke/enrichment system
- If it is hard to start cold, check whether the electric primer/enrichment system is actually supplying fuel.
- If it starts only after repeated priming, that's a strong clue.
- Conversely, excessive enrichment can make it load up and die.
- Carburetor synchronization/link-and-sync
- On this V4, the four carburetors need to begin opening together and the idle timing/throttle relationship must be correct.
- An incorrect adjustment can produce a very unstable idle.
- Fuel supply / air entering the fuel system
- Check the primer bulb, fuel hose, connections and fuel filter.
- A small air leak can make the problem intermittent.
- Watch the primer bulb while the engine is running; if it repeatedly collapses, that's particularly significant.
- Ignition at idle
- Check all four plugs for condition and compare them.
- An intermittent coil or ignition component can cause an occasional dead cylinder and make the engine suddenly shake or die.
- A spark-gap test is much more useful than simply looking at the spark at the plug.
- Compression
- I'd do this before getting too deep into carburetor work. Four relatively even readings are what you're looking for.
A very useful test
When it is running rough and about to die, carefully give it a small amount of choke/enrichment.
Also, if it dies suddenly as though someone switched the ignition off, rather than gradually coughing and slowing down, I'd move ignition higher on the list.
- If it immediately improves: very strong indication of a lean fuel condition — carb low-speed circuit, fuel restriction or air leak.
- If it gets worse: you're probably not dealing with a simple lean condition.
- If there is little/no change: ignition or synchronization becomes more suspicious.
Set all carb linkages, set screws and timing according to manual and prefromed a successful aone HAL 9000 opinion...fwiw
POST YOUR MDL #
Yes — on the 1994 Evinrude E140CXERE carbureted V4, that combination of hard starting + intermittent rough idle + dying points me more toward a fuel/low-speed carburetion problem than an ignition problem, although ignition should be checked too.
I'd investigate in this order:
- Carburetor low-speed circuits
- A partially plugged idle/low-speed passage can cause exactly this.
- The engine may run reasonably once the throttle is opened, yet be difficult to start and die at idle.
- If one carburetor is affected, the engine can idle very unevenly.
- Choke/enrichment system
- If it is hard to start cold, check whether the electric primer/enrichment system is actually supplying fuel.
- If it starts only after repeated priming, that's a strong clue.
- Conversely, excessive enrichment can make it load up and die.
- Carburetor synchronization/link-and-sync
- On this V4, the four carburetors need to begin opening together and the idle timing/throttle relationship must be correct.
- An incorrect adjustment can produce a very unstable idle.
- Fuel supply / air entering the fuel system
- Check the primer bulb, fuel hose, connections and fuel filter.
- A small air leak can make the problem intermittent.
- Watch the primer bulb while the engine is running; if it repeatedly collapses, that's particularly significant.
- Ignition at idle
- Check all four plugs for condition and compare them.
- An intermittent coil or ignition component can cause an occasional dead cylinder and make the engine suddenly shake or die.
- A spark-gap test is much more useful than simply looking at the spark at the plug.
- Compression
- I'd do this before getting too deep into carburetor work. Four relatively even readings are what you're looking for.
A very useful test
When it is running rough and about to die, carefully give it a small amount of choke/enrichment.
Also, if it dies suddenly as though someone switched the ignition off, rather than gradually coughing and slowing down, I'd move ignition higher on the list.
- If it immediately improves: very strong indication of a lean fuel condition — carb low-speed circuit, fuel restriction or air leak.
- If it gets worse: you're probably not dealing with a simple lean condition.
- If there is little/no change: ignition or synchronization becomes more suspicious.
Batteries are on charger. Starter cranks over motor fine. I normally just use the choke at 1st start. But then I'll fumble with it on the water when it's acting up.Have battery charged and load tested.----Take starter apart for inspection and ohm test on armature.-----You are pushing the key in and holding it it while cranking it over?
Yes holding it in while crankingBatteries are on charger. Starter cranks over motor fine. I normally just use the choke at 1st start. But then I'll fumble with it on the water when it's acting up.
