1994 200 starting problem

jeremyeasen

Seaman
Joined
Jun 20, 2002
Messages
72
Been awhile, which is good news I guess. The engine has been hard to start, but eventually got it going, and would start great once warmed. Today it would not fire, I was was about to start checking for spark. Then it quit turning over. I verified the starter was good by jumping the solenoid. So I decided to replace the solenoid (Sierra unfortunately, but its Sunday). Nothing improved, so I got my manual and see there is a fuse somewhere between the ignition switch and the yellow/red wire on the solenoid. I couldnt find this fuse, but by jumping from positive to the yellow/red wire the motor fired up better than it's done cold in a long time. It would only fire up if I had the ignition switch in run mode. But the "start" mode on the switch yielding nothing. The "push to prime" still functions. A few questions, could this be a bad ignition switch? and where might I find this fuse (cowling or boat) as it disappears into a bundled wire run immediately in the engine?

the manual does not say anything on the "S" post on the OMC ignition switch, however I do not read any power or continuity in any position. The is the same color yellow/red that is at the solenoid.

I assume these colors are standard OMC, and not boat brand specific.

Thanks for helping again. jeremy
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: 1994 200 starting problem

there is a red inline fuse holder near the solenoid, it controls the starter circuit. 99% it is blown. you can see it in the bottom right corner of this picture.
MVC-005S.jpg


also:
90% of starter problems are bad connections. remove and clean both ends of the battery cables, so that they are shiney, also the cable from the solenoid to starter. check for nicks in the cables. and make sure the connectors are on the wire good. the cable tend to corrode from the inside out, if nicked, corroded wires, and connections, heat up and cause resistance to the follow of electricity, thus the starter doesn't get enough. you can also take jumper cable pos battery post to large post on starter. with a good connection, the engine should spin. then if the starter is good clean everything and retest. then trouble shoot solenoid. starters can be rebuit at a starter/alternator shop, much cheaper than a new one.

also have the battery load tested at the auto parts store, free, i've had new batteries go bad
 

jeremyeasen

Seaman
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Jun 20, 2002
Messages
72
Re: 1994 200 starting problem

thanks, and Go Gators, only been back twice since i graduated, need to get back there soon. That fuse is the first thing I looked for. Both of the smaller leads disappear into a wire harness without a fuse visible, and it looks factory, so I dont want to start cutting into it. I've checked all over and can not locate any blown fuses. What continuity/voltage should I find from the "S" post on the ignition switch? For $15 I dont mind throwing another one on, because it seems like its part of the problem. There are two push-in fuses below the starter, they are fine, and two cube relays/fuses by Tyco that I can not locate in the manual anywhere...any ideas? thank you.

PS...is there a way to jump the ignition switch to determine if it is the issue, and send me in another direction?
 

jeremyeasen

Seaman
Joined
Jun 20, 2002
Messages
72
Re: 1994 200 starting problem

I've checked and do not have continuity between the solenoid post on the ignition switch and the post on the solenoid. I am unable to locate a blown fuse anywhere, did OMC use fusible links on any of these connections? I also checked between the power pack and the solenoid and that's good. The only place I have no continuity is between the solenoid and the ignition switch. thanks.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: 1994 200 starting problem

unplug the big red harness plug. then jump the solenoid, go from the large incoming pos post on the solenoid to the small post next to it ( yellow w red wire). the pic above is using a remote switch to do the same thing. if the motor starts, you will have to move the red handle on the primer to flood the motor, or pull the plug wires to stop it. the kill circuit is also disabled by unpluging the harness. you can see the big red plug in the bottom of the picture also.
 

jeremyeasen

Seaman
Joined
Jun 20, 2002
Messages
72
Re: 1994 200 starting problem

i did that earlier and that is the way I got the motor to start. the key switch turned it off fine and the push to prime worked. It seems my issue is from the "S", solenoid post thru the wire to the small post on the solenoid. I either, blew a fuse I can't find, burned thru a fusible link, or melted the wire. I'm think (!) I'm trying to figure out which one of those to be looking for now. I guess I could run a wire rigged from the S post to the solenoid and see what happens.
 

jeremyeasen

Seaman
Joined
Jun 20, 2002
Messages
72
Re: 1994 200 starting problem

One last part to this....could this be the safety switch in the shifter?
 

CatTwentyTwo

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 11, 2005
Messages
425
Re: 1994 200 starting problem

On your switch, you should see 12 volts between the S post and the M post with the black wire on it when you turn the key to start. My manual does show the "start in neutral" switch in the shifter in series between the key switch and the starter solenoid.
 
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