1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Ok, sounds good. So, still can't get it to idle, but if I play with the carbs by hand I can get it to keep running. It does spit and sputter though at times and bog down, so I'm thinking I should consider picking up 3 carb rebuild kits and a head gasket. Rebuild the carbs and pull the head and check out that top cylinder. In case I didn't mention earlier, it was still low after running the seafoam through it.
#1 top cylinder: 83psi
#2 mid cylinder: 113psi
#3 bottom cylinder: 113psi

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

well that is promising, you picked up 8 on the bad cylinder, and only 1 on the good cylinders, it may go ahead an free up the rings. i agree with your approach. get the carb kits, and head gasket. but i might try another decarb, after the carb kits. before tearing into the head, and possibly breaking a bolt.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Ok, I'll do that. I'll go ahead and get the gasket since I'll be at the shop, but I'll hold off on that until I do the carbs. Any particular place you go for those that is better than the other? I know I've heard they sell 'em on iboats.com, just don't know really.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Oh, and forgot about the model # thing. The only silver disc I found only had one set of #'s on it, and it was on top of the block. It was G2532759. This engine is so clean I'm thinking someone has cleaned it prior to me getting it.
Is that the right silver thing or is there another one I didn't see?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

you need to contact a dealer, that is the serial number, they are the only ones with access to them. they can tell you. on the head gasket, and carb kits i prefer Johnson kits.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Hmm, okay. I'll have to find an authorized repair shop I like and see what they can do for me. I've only been to 2. One was a privately owned shop and the guy closed down. The other is a larger shop and I don't like them, they are not trustworthy. I had them install a new keyswitch in an older boat I had. I had to relocate my switch panel, so I undid it, labeled every wire, and reconnected them as marked. Then it wouldn't start, so I took it back and they told me I mis-wired it. I don't see how that was possible when I labeled each wire and reattached each one accordingly. I never ran it between them doing it and me taking it apart, so I have no idea if it was wrong in the first place.
Is there anywhere online I can order factory parts? I've found a few places that sell stuff, but it's mostly aftermarket parts.
Speaking of that, the ignition module or whatever it in on this motor has been replaced. I noticed it today.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

you can order factory parts http://shop2.evinrude.com/ext/index.aspx?s1=bf6ad09c53cead335fcfd8a6471c0f7f
where the menu says Evinrude, there is a drop down menu, and click Johnson. follow prompts. but you need to make sure it is a 1994.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp.

Yeah. I'll give a few shops a call tomorrow and see if they will help me out. Wish there was a mech on here who could just tell me, LoL.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

Ok, so I do have some other inquiries about this motor, since I spent a lot of yesterday messing with it. One of my main concerns is part of the TnT has a significant amount of rust on it. I was chipping off chunks at a time. I am not entirely sure exactly which part it was, but from behind the motor with it tilted up, I believe it was on the right side, guessing the trim motor or something. 1: How much is that part, how hard to replace? 2: would it be bad to try to clean it off, sand it down, and prime/paint it? I don't know how far gone it is.
Probably my 2nd concern (aside from low comp and can't get reverse), would be the VRO. I know someone has removed it, my concern is the quality of the job they did when doing it. Once I get my freakin camera back from my brother in law, I will take a pic, but right now the fuel pump is just wedged in between the carbs and block, sort of below the starter area a little. Where was it originally, and is there a preferred location for it since the VRO hs been removed or is it okay where it is? I'm concerned because the fuel line has a slightly harder curve than I would like. It's not a kink, but it's close to being a kink. If it is prefereable to locate it elsewhere, would it be possible to get a pic of someone's so I can see? Nothing is leaking, I just don't know how good it is to have "almost a kink" in the fuel line and to have it just stuck in there, nothing holds it in place except the tension of the fuel hoses.
There is a little plug (once again, I need my freakin camera) on top of the motor that is disconnected, don't know what it used to go it, maybe VRO sensor.
Also, another pair of wires, one is a female round connector coming from similar area as the little plug mentioned above, the other is a male version of it that appears to have been a ground since it comes from a bolt on the exhaust manifold. Don't know if either of those wires are important or not, but I don't like that someone has removed the VRO and it's hard to tell what's done right or wrong. I would never leave wires hanging around, I'd at least tape them out of the way or something.
Any help on those would give me something to do while I try to find a shop who can cross reference my S# and give me a M# so I can order some carb rebuild kits. Called 2 so far, no one wants to help, they all want me to bring it in. Yeah, right....
If I can get my camera back I will take some pics of the tnt part, and of those wires. If I can rule them out as needed I will tape them up so they aren't a concern. Seeing lose stuff makes me think there's more going on and I get confused.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

they actually at the factory use harness that are for many motors. they come from the factory with some unused sockets. the fuel pump will work the way it is. but i agree it is a shoddy.

when you disconnect the Vro there is a plug that went to the vro pump sensor, and a plug that went to the Vro oil tank, that was probably cut and not pulled out. and the oil line disconnected. the pump removed, the pump is usually mounted to the back of the air silencer, it had a fuel in, fuel out, and a pulse hose to the block under the carb. which were connected to your present fuel pump. some make a plate to mount the pump to, let me see if i can find a picture, t n t i'm not up on them.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

Yeah, I just don't like that one hose. I may re-do it and replace that hose and relocate it somewhere else, or at least a little better so that hose won't kink on me. I'd say it's at least putting a strain on the fuel flow, which can't be good.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

this is not the best pic and is from a 140 hp but an idea how to mount it. he just took a metal plate and used and existing bolt to secure the plate, and mounted the pump. can't get it to load, got it

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

That looks much better that what mine looks like. I think I'll have to try to locate some kind of bracket like that, but I'll probably try to use SS or aluminum since I fish mostly saltwater, when I'm not making jigs. Haven't got out in months, been too busy.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

Had a little while to play with it today, not much changed. Did another decarb just because I was bored, still smoked like a mother. Got the top cylinder up to 85psi compression, others were 115psi or so (might have been 114psi). One thing I did note, which leads to the fact I need to rebuild the carbs, is it just won't idle at all, UNLESS I bump the key in. It won't even idle for like 5 secs unless I'm sitting there bumping the key.
I did call a shop about carb rebuild kits, they quoted me $100 total for all 3 kits. That sound about right to everyone else? I really have no idea.
Time to break out tashasdaddy's carb rebuild thread and give it a go when I can get them in.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

Just an idea but are you only trying to rev the engine by using the carb levers? As you need to advance the ignition also. Try duplicating moving the lever that the throttle cable would move if it was hooked up. Unless that is what you are doing.

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

Interesting info. All I've been doing is using the carb levers. It still won't stay running at idle though, it just stalls out. And it also won't start at all if I don't bump the key in when I do it, whether it's warmed up or not. It'll just spin over, but won't start.
Doesn't really matter now though, I pulled the carbs off today, so it's not starting for a while. It might be a week or so since I have to wait for the carb kits and head gasket to come in.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

follow these steps http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=244013

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

Yeah, I have a link to that saved in my favs so when I get the kits in I can do them. I haven't taken the carbs apart yet, don't want to take them all apart then wait too long, I might forget how it came apart.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

good move, don't mix up parts either. each carb goes in a certain place.

if you get confused, you can see all diagrams here.

http://shop2.evinrude.com/ext/index.aspx?s1=bf6ad09c53cead335fcfd8a6471c0f7f

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: 1994 60hp Johnson low comp. and more

Yeah, all I did was remove them as a whole, all 3 still together, then lay them on my bench and disconnect the linkages. But they are still in order and are #'ed 1, 2, and 3. Someone had done that before me b/c the #'s were already scratched on them. I think the place I got it from had been messing around with it, and had probably cleaned it prior to me getting it. There's just no way this engine could be this clean under the hook. Power pack has been replaced, it had new plugs in it when I got it (need to replace them now since I've done 2 decarbs on it with them in it), and someone tried to paint it and make it presentable. I still need to do something about the rust on the TNT. I looked it over yesterday, and I was mistaken about where it was. Now that it's on my stand, the rust is on the fuel side (left side), on a little motor. There is also some rust where the tilt piston attaches to the motor.
One thing I did notice and was curious about, is should this motor have a tilt pin? I've never owned one with TnT before, but this motor has no tilt pin. It looks like it used to have one, but it's gone.