1994 evinrude 60 hp. Luggs at full throttle

[SS Ghetto]

Had the pontoon out a few times this year. When I push throttle higher than ~ 50 rpm, Engine Lugs and stutters. Runs fine at lower rpm.
I will change spark plugs today and see if that corrects. Ran a can of Seafoam in last tank. Using No ethanol premium.
Any other causes of the problem that I may need to diagnose?

 

[tomb198269]

I would look into cleaning and rebuilding the carburetors. replacing fuel lines as well.

 

[gm280]

Sounds like it is time to install a carb kit now... Sounds like the high speed jet circuit has got something stopping up the fuel flow. So buy a carb kit and time to clean your carb...

 

[boobie]

What's the compression on it ?? Will the spark jump a 7/16" open air gap ??

 

[lmuss53]

Another quick test is to pump the ball while it's lugging, if it picks up look at the fuel pump.

 

[SS Ghetto]

Thanks much for the advise. Rebuilt carbs last season but may need it again. Fuel lines are suspect. I'll try the bulb trick when I start it after installing the new plugs. 

 

[racerone]

Carburetors do not need to be rebuilt every year !

 

[Chavi]

I agree with GM280. These days the fuel lines are coated inside with a plastic lining that breaks down with the ethanol in the fuel (go figure). This may have caused your high speed jets to get clogged up. You may not need to rebuild the carb but you will for sure need to break it down and give it a heck of a cleaning. You will be able to tell its ready when you can hear the air blowing through jets or actually see the gunk come out of the jets itself. It happened to me several times with the grey fuel lines so I switched back to the old school fuel lines from the auto parts store.

Good luck,
Hopes this helps.
Chavi.

 

[SS Ghetto]

Hey. Thanks Chavi. I did install a grey fuel line last year along with a oil/water fuel separator in line from tank. I'll take all advise and check out those carbs and give them a cleaning. I did change some of the internal fuel lines in the system, but not all (didn't take off fuel pump). I did disconnect the VRO last year and began mixing 50:1 maually. Only ran non-ethanol premium since then. Probably need to change fuel filters also. Again, thanks for all advise from this great forum. I'll post results after repairs.

 

[WernerF]

You might also consider a failing ignition, for instance a defective SLOW circuit.

 

[racerone]

Check compression and does the hose for the tell tale come off the side of the block or the top ?

 

[lmuss53]

If you find it is a failed fuel pump and you're already mixing fuel, you can replace the pump with the 48 SPL pump with the hose outlet on it. WAY cheaper than the VRO pump.

 

[SS Ghetto]

Not sure what the "tell tale" is. I've got a manual but honestly still a newbe. I did change plugs, water/fuel seperator, cleaned in-line fuel filter and blasted the carbs (without removing them) with carb cleaner while revving engine. Seems to have cleared up the problem (at least temporary) as I cruised for about 30 minutes without a stutter or stall. Maybe something in the fuel line?
Checked compression last year, and it was consistent between cylinders. I'll check again (advance auto loans the tool) to be sure.
I'm thinking that the VRO pump might be on the last leg. Next step is to change it as Imuss 53 suggested above.
Thanks again for the input. Maybe I can keep her running another season!

 

[racerone]

Does the hose for the water pump indicator come off the side of the block or the top of the block ?

 

[lmuss53]

Please do not shoot carb cleaner down your 2 stroke motor's carb or free rev one of these 2 strokes without a load on it. The mixed fuel is not only the fuel but also carries the lubrication for your cylinder walls. So if you shoot carb cleaner down the throat it will clean all the lube off the cylinder wall and risk scoring it with the dry piston ring. These small OMC motors are also known for just running away and blowing up when free revved with no load.

These motors are not extremely hard to work on but you should know a few things about them before you start. They are not you auto, MC or ATV engine. I suggest you go to the top of Evinrude, Johnson page and read a few of the sticky posts. The awakening a sleeping motor and VRO posts would be good starts. I would never take working VRO off a motor, but the cost of a new VRO pump would be enough for me to justify changing to the SPL pump. Since your's is already not working the SPL pump is the obvious choice.

Shop around, the OMC part number for that pump is 0438559

The 18-7353 pump from Sierra is a good alternative also at a much better price and it is the same pump.

It looks like you might have worked the bugs through your's without hurting it so that's good.

The telltale is the "pee" stream that lets you know the water pump is working.