1994 Seapro 190DC with 3.0l mercruiser with no power

[My7875]

Ok long story here. I bought a 1994 seapro back in the spring. It ran fine on the "try out" but I have had lots of problems since I got it home. Turns out it had a tank full of older than described bad gas and the coil wire went out on my first trip out. After misdiagnosing, the ignition is now completely new and all the bad gas has been pumped out and filter changed. I rebuilt the carb and set timing. It starts fine, idles, and runs top end fine but I have no bottom end (takes 200-300 yards to plane out. It had a 19pitch 3 blade prop when I bought it and had pretty fair take off (that day). I borrowed a 16pitch 4 blade to see if it would help my hole shot. All it did was scrub about 800-1000 of on the rom list to speed and still has no pickup. Running clean on top end though. I have no idea where to go from here. I know the 3.0 is no fire breathing dragon but I know it should be able to pull a tube or skier
Mike

 

[Rick Stephens]

What all did you get for new ignition system? Timing certainly could be too retarded or not advancing properly and hence not producing any power. I like your test with the 16 pitch, if it was simply propping issue then that surely would have answered it - like your thinking, if it was a prop problem it wouldn't have run good when you bought it. So something isn't right in the motor.

If you can show the ignition is properly set and advancing correctly, then you might first check compression. And if that all shows good, might have to go back and do the carb again. I know, you just did it, but that is the most common thing to not get done right the first time.



And welcome to iboats.

Rick

 

[PaulC757]

I have a 1994 Seapro 1900 Classic Cuddy Cabin with the 3.0 Mercruiser Alpha 1 and i had the same issue with not getting on Plane for an extended amount of time.

We just bought our as well.
I bought and installed a Davis Whale Tail Hydrofoil and it instantly fixed the problem! http://www.davisnet.com/product/whale-tail-xl/ the best $70 you can spend.

We have manual steering and it even improved the steering and control 100 fold!

If its running alright idling and up in the Rpm range but you just having a hell of a time getting there id bet my paycheck that this will solve your issue.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Not to bash a Whale Tail, but if lift is what is needed than I would use Smart Tabs or other trim tabs instead. Lots of niggling little things happen when you add lift direct to the outdrive in the center of the boat, those don't occur with tabs.

That said, if the boat performed well recently, we first need to address why it is now performing differently.

 

[My7875]

Rick, I completely rebuilt the distributor except the shaft. New plugs, wires, coil, and control modulator. The only way I could set the timing was by ear. Couldn't get the light to work. I advanced until started getting spark knock them backed up until it quit. Compression is my next test I guess.

 

[Rick Stephens]

No way to know how close you are nor whether the advance is working. All by itself would account for loss of power.

 

[My7875]

Gotcha. I will have to get with somebody with a light. How do I check advancing? This is my first rodeo with timing issues

 

[Jmunk]

Make sure you read about setting the timing, some engines require ajumper wire to lock into base mode first.

 

[Rick Stephens]

What model distributor is installed and got rebuilt? Mercruiser had both a digital and a conventional ignition available in '94.

Jmunk is right, we must follow procedure which is determined by year and type of disty. The right service manual is available online at http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html#

Doing a compression test is not a bad idea either.

Rick

 

[Rick Stephens]

Gotcha. I will have to get with somebody with a light. How do I check advancing? This is my first rodeo with timing issues

With a decent quality timing light with digital advance function you can check what the advance is as you up the RPMs on your motor. These types of timing lights also can be used to check your tachometer for accuracy. Prices run from $60ish up to $100, more for professional grade.

 

[My7875]

The plate/cap on the top of the flame arrestor says digital but nothing about it seems digital to me. Just a pickup coil, button, and cap........

 

[Rick Stephens]

The Mercruiser Digital Electronic Ignition disty looked like this photo

 

[My7875]

Nope, it's just an old school GM distributor.

 

[My7875]

The parts that seem to match up are from a 1990 Chevy astro 2.5L

 

[Rick Stephens]

Probably like these. You need to not only set timing but gap and dwell. TheOEM service manual will help you with geting it right.

One day, get a wild hair and want to stop working on your ignition every year, switch to Delco Voyager EST electronic ignition.

Rick

 

[My7875]

Where can I get a manual?

 

[Rick Stephens]

Where can I get a manual?

On this site: http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html#

 

[My7875]

I just looked up the ignition. It looks like what I have and I remember seeing est written somewhere on the boat

 

[Rick Stephens]

The timing for EST is set completely different from a traditional points and condenser type ignition. You need to KNOW for sure what you have. If nothing else, take a picture of the distributor, better yet, pop the cap off and take a pic of the inside looking down from the top. Post here and we'll figure out the right method to time it properly.

 

[My7875]

I haven't been able to post a pic yet. It always prompts that my files are too large. I can assure you it's not points in the cap.