1995 Johnson 130 Looper

[jwall116]

I do now know how accurate this fuel flow meter is but here are some rough numbers. I was out having too much fun to make small readings. The numbers seem slightly high to me, and that WOT # is a bit high. This is with a Navman 210 Fuel unit mounted vertical just before the engine.... Fuel bulb--Filter--Sensor--Engine. I Suggestions welcome!

4000 RPM 8.5GPH 25MPH 2.94MPG
4500 rpm 10GPH 30 MPH 3 MPG
5000 RPM 12 GPH 34 MPH 2.83 MPG
5800 RPM 17 GPH 40MPH. 2.3MPG

 

[sutor623]

Wow, yea that definitely does seem high. I have heard that these motors are drinkers though!! General rule for 2stroke is 1/10 of the HP is WOT fuel usage, which puts you at 13 GPH. From my testing, I used a 6 gallon tank at cruise for 55 minutes, which was in the 4200RPM range.

That being said, can you see which bolt holes your motor is set at? Mine is the second hole from the bottom, meaning just above the lowest setting.

 

[jwall116]

I initially thoughts these #'s were very high as well while I was on the boat, however once I calculated the mileage... it doesn't seem far off at all. While the rule of thumb would place this as a 13GPH WOT engine, we have 4 carbs (correct?) on this engine. While the WOT fuel figure was accurate on my last engine, Force 50 burned 5 GPH wide open and 3 at cruise, it did only have a single carb.



This is from another forum
"Those loopers are the worst fuel PIGS ever, but they're very reliable. My brother runs a 1996 150 Evinrude Oceanpro. The motor is propped to hit the upper end of the RPM range. @ 4000 RPM it's sucking around 12 - 14gph (flowscan) . . . depending on load and seas. Cruise is generally 2.0 - 2.4 MPG"

^^ that engine has 2 more cyl but for comparison 8.5 GPH at 4000 sounds better than 14! With 4 carbs, how efficient do you expect to be? I do plan on messing with the location of the flow sensor to see if anything changes and do further testing. It was a bit hard with 4th of July weekend on the lake.

 

[flyingscott]

I am not so sure there is a good comparison there, the 1995 150 I would almost bet is a 60 deg looper compared to your 90 deg looper. The 60 deg motors were far better on gas than yours is ever going to be.

 

[jwall116]

Do those fuel flow #'s sound right that I posted? 17GPH on a 130 HP engine seems to exceed the 'rule of thumb' by a bit.

 

[sutor623]

4 carbs vs. 2 carbs doesn't make a bit of difference. Each cylinder will still have the same amount of air and fuel flow regardless of how many carbs. If two cylinders share one carb to run both of them, each cylinder still has its own fuel orifices and air throats.

That being said, maybe you can run an above deck 6 gallon tank and run it about dry. See if the fuel flow meter reads 6 gallons of fuel used after the tank is empty. This is a very simple test to prove if your flow meter is accurate or not.

All in all, even if the 17GPH number is correct, go price out a brand new boat, figure out payments, insurance and how much gas you will burn in a new 4 stroke motor. I bet after that you won't be disappointed with how much $ you are spending on fuel on this boat I typically use mine for striper fishing. I put about 1.5-2 hours of idle, hole shots, cruise and very little WOT on the engine each trip, Normally costs me between 10-15 gallons of gas. Just food for thought.

Id like to get a fuel flow meter to do some tests, but really for the cost of a meter I could just about fill up the tank in the boat

And Im still waiting to get an answer about what holes your engine is set on.......

 

[jwall116]

I am going to move the filter on the boat around, and put it before the bulb. I read in another forum that the fuel has air/turbulent directly after the filter and could result in high readings. It is just a small turbine being spun by the fuel passing. I will try this over the weekend when I take the boat out. My fuel tank is empty, time to cough up $100 to fill it !!

Last trip out, which I spent almost all day on the water I burned 11 gallons of gas. it was probably 45 minutes of cruising, 5 minutes of WOT and the rest were engine off. All in all, the sensor doesn't seem far off by the amount my fuel gauge moved for the 11 gallons. I was out playing with a 300HP $100,000 boat, who didn't out run me by much! It was about 10' longer but he thought he was so big and bad that I had to play in my 21 yr old boat.

As for the hole, if you are referring to the holes in front of the tilt labeled 1-6, I am in hole 1. This is just a bar going across, guessing this adjusted the trim in limit??? Looking at the engine's mounting bolts it is at the bottom of the slider, indicating the motor is in the water as deep as it can go. With a friend driving at 4500RPM and trimmed up 1/3 of the way the anti-cavitation plate is level with the water. I can continue to trim up to about half before the bow begins the bobbing motion. If it is simple to raise the engine, i'm sure it would help performance a tad. Not enough for the amount of time in Texas 100 degree heat right now.

Will provide more test #'s this weekend, and put into a chart. I will post in our 4 page topic and make a new one just for it for others who have become bored of our ramblings ! :laugh:

 

[sutor623]

Haha, sounds good man. I'm sure some people enjoy our shenanigans!!!! Speaking of the mounting hole, I was referring to the slider, as you called it, and the 4 mounting bolts. My bolt is about 1" below the top of the slider, indicating that I can drop one more inch deeper into the water. I think I am going to get a water pressure gauge and raise the motor up one bolt hole at a time. I have an engine hoist so it would only take me about an hour or so. When I have my bait tank back there it really drops the tail end into the water. Id like to combat this if possible.

I have played around with the idea of a hydraulic jack plate, but I don't really want to spend the time of $1000 on this old girl, when she really is doing all that I need to do with her. Maybe I will just get a manual jack plate and fool with it until I am happy with the height. This would allow me to just turn a bolt to adjust the height. Ah, decisions decisions.

 

[sutor623]

And man, 11GPH at cruise, whew thats some gas right there. My wives CR-V uses 11 gallons a WEEK going to work and back 5 times a week, thats about 200 miles. Crazy that a small boat can burn that in one hour at speeds of 25MPH :shocked:

 

[sutor623]

Looking at the engine's mounting bolts it is at the bottom of the slider, indicating the motor is in the water as deep as it can go.

Hey bud, hows the fuel flow testing going?

I wanted to touch base on this last quote that you made here. If the engine bolt is at the BOTTOM of the slider, that actually means the engine is as HIGH as it can go. If it was at the TOP of the slider, that would mean that the engine is at LOW as it could go.

It actually sounds like your engine is mounted as high as it can go, which is why someone installed a 19pitch prop and got a cupped SS prop to hold tight and prevent ventilation at high speeds.

If this doesn't clarify maybe you could take a picture of the bolt in the slider??

 

[jwall116]

No Title

Last time I went out, I was giving rides. The few times I looked at the fuel flow gauge it was reading very low and sluggish.. completly opposite of the last time I used the boat. I will move the sensor and check the screen for debree.

Can you help me out with 2 lines that I found to be disconnected under the cowl?

The big line, is connected under the #2 carb (left bottom) and I think it goes to the breather. I says OMC FUEL LINE on it.

The other is much smaller and is connected to the intake just above the shift linkage. No idea where it goes, it is def not a fuel line of any sort. I am thinking it is a pulse port line for something but not sure where it should be going.

 

[sutor623]

Where is your air box? Do you not have one installed?

Hose number 1 is a vent for the crankcase. That hose just needs to vent to atmosphere. Hose number 2 is the line that runs leaked oil/fuel from the carbs back into the crankcase. It is supposed to be hooked to the bottom of the airbox instead of plugged with a screw.

I think we found another reason why your engine is screamin louder than mine.

Did you verify my last post? Could you take a picture of the motor mounting bolt in the "slider"

 

[jwall116]

I will take a picture of the slider when I get the boat out again. I don't work standard shifts (aircraft dispatcher).

I do have an airbox, I had it off to clean the cowling and engine. They were absolutely filthy, and I found out why. The Primer sylnoid was leaking, I ordered a new kit for that and will change it out. The airbox does not have any filter in it, it breaths via the cowling.

Will be on the water either monday or tuesday.

 

[jwall116]

Long time and no post man !

I did a little more indepth fuel flow testing the other day. Notice the huge jump in consumption north of 4600. I will test 4800 rpm and see what it is next time im out. Then im taking the meter off and selling it, tells me how much I burn! I love me some WOT. On vacation for a week and taking the boat to the freshwater lake about 2 hours from Houston, i'm sure my engine will love the change from the salt.

3800 - 7.5
4000 - 8.5
4200 - 9.0
4500 - 9.5
4600 - 10.0
5000 - 13.0
5200 - 14.0
5600 - 16.5 -- WOT

 

[sutor623]

I don't understand. Your last posts were stating that you were hitting 6000 rpms at WOT. This is what has puzzled me about the comparison. This says you are hitting 5600 at WOT. 5600 with a 19pitch prop sounds more like it to me.

 

[sutor623]

Either way, thanks for reporting your results. Looks like I will keep my engine in the 42-4500 rpm range

 

[jwall116]

When the temperature isn't 100 degrees I can hit 6000. With Houston summer temps I'm only seeing 5600. I would really like a 15x17 prop and thinking of buying a cheap alum prop.

 

[sutor623]

Yea man I am sure that Houston heat is killer!!!

 

[jwall116]

5600 RPM at WOT just isn't enough for this engine, I opted to purchase an OMC 15X17 prop and give it a try. Will install and test this weekend. I really want to see 6000RPM again. I'm willing to bet in winter time the engine will over rev a bit which is okay.

And i was getting 6000 before I had the prop cupped, with the cupping the most I would see in winter was 5800.

 

[sutor623]

I am at 5850 with my aluminum 15x17 with a lighter load. With a typical fishing load (very heavy) I am at 5600rpms. I would try a 15 but will lose top end and will likely over-rev with a lighter load. I would say that you will be happy with that 17p prop.