1996 Mercury 3 cylinder / 50 ELO Wiring Question

[wharfcreek]

I have the subject outboard motor on a small boat I recently purchased (15' Key West). The ignition switch for this boat was located directly across from the seat where my knees were constantly banging it....damaging both my knees and the switch! I finally got around to re-locating the switch up on the dash, out of the way. However, along with the switch was what I figure to be a 'Lanyard' kill switch mechanism. There was a toggle switch in the 'on' position, but no Lanyard. In attempting to remove that switch (also next to the ignition switch another potential 'knee-banger') it ended up breaking. So, I simply cut the 3 wires and figured I'd need to splice something to make things work. There was a black wire with a white tracer that went to the middle position on the switch, a black wire with a yellow tracer at one end....and a purple wire going to the other end. With all 3 wires just 'cut' and dangling, I can't see anything that is 'inoperative'. The engine starts and runs....all the gauges work....as do all the accessories. I figured I might have to connect at least two of the wires.....but seemingly I don't. However, I can't seem to find a 'proper' wiring diagram for this portion of the wiring in this engine. The engine is a 50 ELO according to the tag...but it appears to have had tilt/trim added as it's got it and it 'looks' to be 'factory' installed. I've 'Google Searched' over a hundred schematics.....none of which show this switch. The closest I can come is a 2-wire switch with a black/yellow and 'black' only.....and that is listed as a 'Lanyard Kill Switch'. I'm thinking maybe my 'black/white' is the equivalent of the 'black', and then my black/yellow is the wire that, when connection is 'made' with the black/white....that 'kills' the motor. I didn't try this....but I suppose I could. I just don't want to 'cook' anything. But, if this is 'correct'...then the black/white would be 'made' to the purple in the 'run' position.....which would do what? I dunno!!!

Anyway.....any help with this would be appreciated. Like I said.....I just don't want to start 'connecting' things and end up cooking something. Likewise, I also don't want to just run the boat and find that something was supposed to be connected that wasn't and in turn the battery didn't charge, or the timing screwed up and cooked the engine, etc!! Bad things can happen either way I suppose. So....again, thanks for any help with this!!

Tom D.

 

[Drew220]

Nevermind

 

[wharfcreek]

LOL......Hey Drew! I think I got your 'original' post as part of an email notification. If so, then I would agree with your basic premise.....although I have some other 'experience' that somewhat contradicts this. I've done quite a bit in the 'motorcycle' world......and on some of the bikes I've worked on in the past, the 'kill' function is completed by grounding the 'signal' side of the ignition. When this is done, the ignition module still 'triggers' like it should....but the signal just goes to ground instead of 'making' ground at the ignition coil. As such, no spark....engine stops! In looking at what wiring diagrams I could find with any kind of 'Lanyard' switch, it almost looked to me like a similar thing was happening. To be honest, I'm not sure just what the concept is....unless the idea is to keep lights and other normal functions running so as to facilitate location of a 'down' vehicle. But, I can honestly say that the switch in my boat seems utterly useless! Because I find it hard to believe that's true, hence my inquiry here. I hope someone with some absolute knowledge will respond.

Thanks for your comment Drew!
Tom D