1997 Force 70hp

[atengnr]

Hello all. Im going to be picking up a 70hp 1997 force, looks and runs great on stand. The skeg is badly beat up, and Im wondering if people have good success with having a local welder repair this?

What should I look for in regards to this motor? Im pretty mechanically adept, but know nothing about Force, other than their reputation. Always had OMCs but just wanted to try something different for my old 16 foot safetmate.

Thanks all!

 

[The Force power]

A good shop that repairs Props; will be able to repair your Skeg.
if yours is a '97 you have a improved (by Mercury) motor
I always had Mercs. and I respect its products good or could of been better; but that's a whole other debate. lol

this my first Force and I can't say anything bad about it

 

[roscoe]

Make sure the shop is experienced in repairing skegs.


Your motor is not a 1997 model.

97's were 75 hp, with different ignition and fuel systems.

That motor will run fine on a stand, with no back pressure, even if one cylinder is dead.
Make sure you check compression and spark on all 3 cylinders before purchase.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The later 3cyl. Force 70/75 with the one carb aren't the best engineered..

I'd buy about any of the Forces but one of those. My opinion.

Hold out for a 90/ 120 or a Mercury or Yamaha.

 

[atengnr]

Thanks all. What years were the 70hp?

 

[roscoe]

1991-1995

 

[atengnr]

Can someone suggest source of a good service manual?

 

[jerryjerry05]

E-bay.
Just make sure it's a "service" and not a "parts" manual.

 

[atengnr]

Do i need to use gaskets for water pump plate and housing or can I use permatex? Looks like prior install was with gasket maker only. Thanks

 

[Nordin]

In my opinion you can use only gasket liquid such as Permatex or equal.
When I change impellers I try to reuse the old gaskets and add some liquid gasket at it.
It have worked in every time.

 

[Dlubke]

When you buy a water pump kit it should come with all the gaskets and metal sleeve. The manufacture designed it this way for a reason I would recommend following the instructions they give you. You can use other forms of sealing methods but do have a chance of failure.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The 70 hp pump.
Should have 2 gaskets one on the wear plate the other under the wear plate.
You can add sealer or not.

Make sure you lube the vanes before installing.
Grease or dish soap.

The only time I've seen instructions with a pump replacement kit is when I bought Mercury kits.

 

[The Force power]

In my opinion you can use only gasket liquid such as Permatex or equal.
When I change impellers I try to reuse the old gaskets and add some liquid gasket at it.
It have worked in every time.

Totally agree (when gaskets not torn plate/cup are not grooved beyond)

 

[atengnr]

Can somone tell me what is supposed to be in the site of this bit of electronics that is zip tied down in pic? Sorry I am new to force. Its below the powerpack.

Thanks alot!

 

[roscoe]

It is commonly referred to as a candy bar.

Is needed, comes with, some replacement stators to properly match up wiring from old style, to new style.

 

[VivaLaMigra]

Yeah, it's the "candy bar" and it was Mercury's Mickey-Mouse fix for adapting their "red" stators to the old powerpacks. They couldn't even come up with a decent installation method - they basically told installers to tie-wrap it any old place it would go and the wires would reach. I've asked what this setup is supposed to do and why Merc didn't use a new powerpack instead. Old packs had "low speed" and "high speed" connections to the stator and with this setup you don't use the red terminal. You'd probably need an electrical engineer to explain how they made it work. That "candy bar" is an expensive cheat! You'll note tha CDI Electronics does NOT make a "red" stator so when installing theirs the "candy bar" has to come back off.

 

[VivaLaMigra]

Getting back to your original Q about buying the Force 70, I would steer away. Those motors don't have a good rep. Feeding three cylinders from one big-ass carb didn't work out well. Burned pistons are the usual result. This motor type originally worked off triple carbs as a 70, 75, 85, or 90 HP. One carb seems like a cheat to de-tune it. They're using the 3-cylinder block on a smaller stack with its own peculiar lower unit. When those go, they aren't easy to find. A friend of mine blew up his 70 last year. I put the lower on C/L and it sold the same day for $400 - about the upper limit of what I'd recommend spending on one of these motors. I just got a clean one DIRT CHEAP without trim and I'm going to slam his old trim on that motor. If it blows up, I won't cry about it at the price I paid - virtually zip. You pay anything over $600 for the motor and you'll have regrets.