1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

[jigngrub]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Are you going to have to shim all your framing up 3/16 on both decks to compensate for the protruding wells? If so, you'll prolly need some longer rivets... but I'm sure you already knew that.

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

I won't (have to) shim the entire deck support/structure. I mean, if I were inclined to have the deck surface absolutely perfectly flat, I would have to. But I'm not going that far. The aluminum on the fore and aft decks is 3/16", "marine grade", very hard and stiff. any slight variances in elevation/flatness is not that noticeable, and should not affect the stability of the deck. In the case of the bulkheads however, I have the discrepancy within maybe 4" of the edge of the deck. Thus the need for me to take these extra measures. I might find the need to put some blocks in (of the bar stock) - I'm prepared to do that if I deem it necessary.

I was contemplating today what lengths of rivets I would need for the different tolerances and thicknesses I'll be dealing with. My supplier for the fasteners is a wholesale/industrial supplier/warehouse. Even so, I still hope their inventory of truss head rivets will satisfy me - in terms of selection.

Cheers!

Fishy

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Well, if you need a rivet that your supplier doesn't have... I'm sure you can find it here:

http://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en.html

They have every kind, size, diameter, and length you can think of. Just mouse over and click on the menu on the left side of the screen.
I couldn't find anything locally and had to order all of mine from them.

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

WOW! That is a great site! Everything rivets, huh?

Fish

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

I got a couple of deliveries, today. That Springfield seating stuff is fantatastic!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

How do you intend to fasten those pedestal bases to the alum. deck Fishy?

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

The bases will be secured with 1/4"-20 stainless bolts ans stainless nylon insert locknuts. Hardware will be stainless steel. The fore and aft decks will get the recessed bases, the flush mount bases will be aft in the cockpit, the bases concealed in a storage area, the posts inserted/applied through round screw-in access hatches when the cockpit seating is desired (i.e. when the wife goes for a boat ride). At the location of all the bases, an additional 3/16" backing plate is welded into the stringers/runners for support.

I did more work on the console - completed the front of the pedestal and installed access/service hatch. I had installed some deck lighting in the console, yesterday.

BTW - the discrepancy relating to the need for a gap-filler at the bulkheads is 5/16". I put a tape on it again today, but didn't make it to my metal supplier.

Cheers!

 

[Mike Lammert]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Hey fish nice progress! That console is looking sharp! I have that same steering wheel but with a edson power knob on it..

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

I'm planning on having my sign guy cut out some vinyl for me, to garnish the console. I'm having a tough time deciding what to do. the lakesport hull has dark blue and dark red/rust stickers - I'm thinking something like below. Any suggestions would be welcome.

~Fishy

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Moving right along....

Started this morning with the backing for cockpit seats. If anyone again asks you, "Where's the beef?", you can respond, "I know there's some under the running seat pedestal bases in Earlene's New Oven!".

The job got interrupted by an employee in the field needing help, but I finished before putting the welder away.

In the side view, you can see where I notched the knock-down on the support. This is to allow my hand to get under it to service the bases (access the nuts to be applied to the mount bolts).

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

On the way back from helping out on that job, I stopped by West Marine to do a little shopping (it was on the way).

Since the hull activity was interrupted, I started fiddling with the console. I cut out and installed the service access covers and secured with 8-32 truss head stainless screws.

I installed the horn and an auxiliary (cigarette lighter type) power outlet into the console.

Then I hit the control box with a wire wheel and broke out a can of Rustoleum Hammered to spruce it up. I replaced the ignition switch, which I previously diagnosed as being faulty, because the kill switch didn't work. I connected the horn and auxiliary outlet with spade connectors, but I think I'll redo the wires and solder them to the termimals.

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Also today, I took some time to sketch out my wiring scheme and check inventory of conductors. I'm probably going to use some 18ga. wires, so I picked up some 15A fuses to replace the 20's that come stock in my fused switch panel.

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

After looking at the chart again, looks like I need to protect the 18ga at 10A - not 15. The 18ga. is for deck lights, on one circuit - bilge pump on one circuit - aerator on one circuit - nav light on one circuit with the instrument lights - anchor light on one circuit - baitwell pump on one circuit.

Those are my 18ga circuits and should be fine at 10A.

~fishy

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Okay, enough of the chit chat - get back to work.

I fished the control cables through the hull this morning. It was tight. I hope the 18' for the steering cable will be adequate. I've got pretty much a straight shot for the steering, did a little fish-tailing on the control cables.

The engine imbilical was a couple of feet short. I added about 30" of wire to the harnesses, using the existing polarized/waterproof connectors being careful to connect one at a time, color to color. I goofed up on the tach assembly - the largest of the connectors wouldn't make it under the rib in the bottom of the boat - I had to splice a third time to fish the wire through. That kinda messed up the attractiveness of the job, but all splices are sound - soldered and shrink-tube insulated.

This was a tedious task - I'm glad it is out of the way.

Cheers!

~Fishy

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

I started with the Nautalex, and I'm not very happy about that "88" adhesive. The adhesive does seem to make a good bed for setting the material on a flat surface. But I am wrapping the edges of my material. The Nautalex adhesive is not "contact" type adhesive it seems. I did the front deck, and there are a lot fasteners in the small area to secure the deck, I'm not that concerned about it, but I will be going to the hardware store for some contact adhesive for the rest of the application.

I got 1/2" aluminum stock as gap-fillerfor the variance between the baitwell elevation and the bulkhead elevation - it works great.

The new steering cable came in, and the 18' looks like it's going to do the job, fine and dandy.

A knockout from the holesaw was perfect size to patch up a hole in the aft bulkhead.

~Fishy

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Okay, I'm liking my LocTite ("300" Heavy) contact adhesive much better for my application. I got the bulkheads Nautalex'd.

1/2" plastic conduit with the desired wires is run to the bow and the stern from the console location. The conduit terminates with proper conduit connectors.

I also ran 1/4" poly tubing as an air hose to serve the aft livewell, as I am placing the aerator in the bow so it doens't suck gas fumes to pump into the wells.

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Carrying on with the Decking, I applied the Nautalex to the cockpit sides, and then fitted the bits I had done for a quick look-see and a little gratification.


~Fishy

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

I just started looking online for some tubes to install in my forward bulkhead to insert the fish poles that will be stored for travel on the boat. rod holders will be applied to the side gunnels of the boat for the tips of the rods to be inserted through the bulkhead into the bow area of the craft.

For some reason I imagined these plastic tubes as something that existed on the planet, but I do not readily find what I am looking for. It would be somewhat of a thin plastic tube, perhaps with an expanded open in to lock into a sheet metal surface with the appropriate size hole to insert or mount the tube into.

In the old arrangement, the poles where just stuffed into open space and allowed to tangle or otherwise imalgumate, and tips or line could get damaged by abrasion or impact against aluminum or other material loose in the bow space.

Am I going to have to fabricate something?

 

[Teamster]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

I have seen guys use the tubes you can get for clubs is a golf bag for what your doing,..

Myself I don't like tubes for any storage, it takes up to much space, I put all of my rods in "rod socks" to eliminate the tangles and help prevent damage,...

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

I have seen guys use the tubes you can get for clubs is a golf bag for what your doing,..

AH! exactly.

thanks, teamster.