1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

HF, the photo of your console on post #61 cracked me up. Looks like it yakked up wiring all over your nice deck

LOL! it does look like a bowl of spagetti, huh? With it coming out of the access on the console - it makes it look like it vomitted the wires out! It is kinda' disconcerting.

Don't worry, When I get the electrics all buttoned up - it'll make sense.

Cheers!

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Would it be worth putting a bow roller on my little boat?

I'm considering a claw anchor, which probably will not stow in my little storage boxes that I keep my cast iron pivot anchor in, I believe the claw anchor will not fit. I thought maybe the anchor being secure in a bow roller ready to dispatch, might be favorable over clanking around in the boat at the fishing hole to employ anchorage.

thoughts?

~Fishy

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

I built my leaning post stand, this morning.

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

My buddy Kirk, of KJ Fab Shop said he's got foam and white vinyl in stock. If I cut the boards/templates he'd do my upholstery.

I'm thinking I'll do two separate pieces, the top and the front of the leaning post.

Kirk suggested walmanized (treated) plywood for the backs. Would the chemical progress through the vinyl and eat my aluminum? If so, what should I seal the plywood with?

~Fishy

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Not sure if the PT would leach through your vinyl or not, but if you can find some dry PT you could always seal it with paint or exterior varnish.

2 part epoxy resin is the best sealer for lumber, but I don't know if it'd be worth it for that little bit. You should be ok with 3 or 4 coats of just paint or urethane varnish.

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Not sure if the PT would leach through your vinyl or not, but if you can find some dry PT you could always seal it with paint or exterior varnish.

2 part epoxy resin is the best sealer for lumber, but I don't know if it'd be worth it for that little bit. You should be ok with 3 or 4 coats of just paint or urethane varnish.

Thanks, jig. I got some spar varnish at the hardware store. I had some (plain) ply in the shop - I'm fixin' it up, now.

~Fishy

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

I got my decal for the console.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Hi fish,

I have read your thread and I must say that you have done an excellent job on your remodel...I really like your new console, came out sharp...and your buddy, Kirk,
does some fine and dandy work...KUDOS on the carpet, looks better than factory...great idea on the hidden seat pedestal openings...

Heck that is coming out so nice, you won't even need a fishin rod, the fish'll just jump in there!

I'll be looking forward to the splash...

Best regards,
GT1M

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Thanks, GT. <blushing>

I'm dying to get 'er floating, myself - but I'm really enjoying this remodel - I've done this boat once before (aside from just replacing decks), but this is the most extensive work since I've had 'er for fifteen years. I think the history of how I use the boat and the nuances of the existing configuration/characteristics of the craft contribute to good results.

I've been following you, too - on your project. I can't wait to see what you get going on when getting it back together.

Cheers!

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

No pics tonight, but I secured and organized electrical "yak" spewing from the mouth of my console (as seen in post #62). I realized that I had forgotten another conductor (for the fuel gauge). I ended up pulling two conductors through the underneath of the cockpit floor with the one loner that I had for the bilge pump switch. It wasn't like I could get any more conductors in my 1/2" conduit anyway, so I don't feel so bad about it. I could have executed better, however.

I secured my controls cables into my control box - I've lost one of the clevis pins for the control cable connection. I had to order one from my boat guy.

I'll need to search for a wiring diagram. I don't recall the scheme for the tilt gauge between the purple, white, and black wires from the engine wiring harness (Evinrude E50TLEUC 1997). Shouldn't be a big deal.

With the initial tackling of the bowl of spaghetti, I've got a little head of steam - the rat's nest was kinda' intimidating.

Cheers!

~Fishy

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

I spent the morning and part of the afternoon running parts and getting the wiring done. I got the yak buttoned up in the console and got the bow wired. I had a couple of spare wires run to the bow, as I went ahead and re-utilized the original nav light circuit that is embedded in the foam.

i installed my aerator, with tubing going to the front bait tank, and aft live tank. The aerator unit has two pumps integral.

I used bus bars for the ground (negative) - A 100 amp in the console and a 100 amp in the bow. This eliminates a giant pigtail of 4 - 8 wires to have to bundle together, and / or eliminate separate ground (negatives) running to and fro. I have a 130A bus that is going be in the stern. I got started on the stern wiring before I hung it up today - but I'll post pics and progress on that when I'm done with it. I had a Perko battery switch that switched the motor circuit between the crank and troll motors - 3-position (1, 2, all, and OFF). I installed a secon battery switch just for the troll motor battery.

The eight switches on the console are wired - the left four on the crank battery, the right four on the troll battery. The switches on the crank battery are for anchor, nav, and deck lights + a spare (vacant) switch. i think it's good to have a spare switch for expansion, or emergency need when another switch might fail. The four switches on the right side of the switch panes are aerator, Bait tank pump, Bow light outlet (20A) - and - something else, I forget right now.

I need to remember - I did not wire a "hot" to my bilge switch. Y'all remind me.

Also, I got my shipment of two additional Tempress slam hatches for the console and the seat pedestal storage area, so the hatch on the console is secured.


Cheers!

~Fishy


BEFORE: AFTER:

The wiring in the Bow:

 

[all duck'd up]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

just out of curiosity:

what are you going to do to even out the weight distribution? seams like you have a lot on your starboard side....

and how about the duck blind any progress?

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Hi Duck. the craft was original a side-console. the boat is pretty narrow, and when standing at the wheel, your foot is on the center line. I am conscious of your observation however, and prepared to re-fit the console to the center of the deck if the current configuration proves to be a problem - I don't particularly anticipate it. Mind you that the two batteries are port side, aft. the anchor is (15 lbs.+) is typically stored port side forward.

My new console is lighter than the plastic Todd console that was 18" x 24" - the Todd was positioned in the center of the deck.

As far as the duck blind, I have been using it for a couple of seasons. I been busy and hadn't posted on the thread. since my last post I have procured my seats for the leaning post, installed the leaning post, and also installed the turn-buckle hold-downs for the ice chest (and the ice chest, naturally). I walked out to the project several times today to take pics - but got sidetracked each time.

Tomorrow AM I will post the progress pics, and the duck blind photos.

Cheers!

~Fishy

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

By popular demand - pics of the duck blind:

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

One more:

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

K... here's the leaning post and ice chest installed. I'm lovin' my turnbuckle ice chest mounts.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

K... here's the leaning post and ice chest installed. I'm lovin' my turnbuckle ice chest mounts.


View attachment 125120View attachment 125121View attachment 125122

That is not only looking excellent, it is also a supremely good idea for securing the cooler to the deck...with your permission, sir, I will be using that idea in the future on my build...Thank you for your support

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

Just curious why turnbuckles and not nylon straps?

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

The stainless ice chest turnbuckle fasteners (with hand crimp), are available at your favorite marine supply store, expressly advertised for the purpose of securing chests.


~Fishy

 

[herefishy]

Re: 1997 Lakesport 17' remodel

The hardware originally came with a little stainless plate and a threaded eye-bolt to secure to the plate secured to the deck. I didn't like that arrangement, and purchased a nice stainless loop thingy that I thought would be a little bit more barefoot friendly, and look nicer.

You can see how the hand crimp works in securing the chest to the deck. You don't have to operate the turnbuckle to loosen and re-secure.