1997 Merc 4.3 V6 LXGen+

P

Proover

Cadet
Joined
Jun 7, 2022
Messages
20
When I grab my distributer by the cap, I can turn it counter clockwise bout 1/4 inch. I can turn it back (clockwise) the 1/4 inch. I've loosened no bolt or screw. Is this a normal boat/marine feature? Is it an automatic timing advance feature governed by performance loading?

In my distant past with car engines, I never found this feature on any engine.

FYI - I'm a complete novice with boat/marine issues.
 
Lou C

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,030
Nope. Is the whole distributor moving or just the cap?
The cap is screwed into the distributor and the distributor is clamped to the intake manifold.
 
Scott06

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,728
Proover said:
When I grab my distributer by the cap, I can turn it counter clockwise bout 1/4 inch. I can turn it back (clockwise) the 1/4 inch. I've loosened no bolt or screw. Is this a normal boat/marine feature? Is it an automatic timing advance feature governed by performance loading?

In my distant past with car engines, I never found this feature on any engine.

FYI - I'm a complete novice with boat/marine issues.
Click to expand...
As lou said this isn't normal most likely the hold down clamp for distributor is loose. Set the timing with a timing light and tighten clamp.

I believe you will have thunderbolt ignition which needs to be put into base mode to set timing
 
P

Proover

Cadet
Joined
Jun 7, 2022
Messages
20
Scott06 said:
As lou said this isn't normal most likely the hold down clamp for distributor is loose. Set the timing with a timing light and tighten clamp.

I believe you will have thunderbolt ignition which needs to be put into base mode to set timing
Click to expand...
And yup...I suspected it isn't normal. I'll have to contort myself & blindly fish around for the hold down clamp.

And thanks (you & Lou) for the feedback.
 
Lou C

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,030
You need a crowfoot wrench to get at it, I still have one I bought back in the '70s, it's in 2 pieces, one side is for Chevrolet and the other side is for Ford. The hold down bolt is right behind the carb between the carb and the distributor on the left side as you face it from the front. Keep in mind that now you have to find out how to set the timing, that's what is changing when the distributor moves. It must be set to spec.
 
Scott06

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,728
Lou C said:
You need a crowfoot wrench to get at it, I still have one I bought back in the '70s, it's in 2 pieces, one side is for Chevrolet and the other side is for Ford. The hold down bolt is right behind the carb between the carb and the distributor on the left side as you face it from the front. Keep in mind that now you have to find out how to set the timing, that's what is changing when the distributor moves. It must be set to spec.
Click to expand...
I've used wobble extensions and home bent wrenches as well...
 
P

Proover

Cadet
Joined
Jun 7, 2022
Messages
20
Lou C said:
You need a crowfoot wrench to get at it, I still have one I bought back in the '70s, it's in 2 pieces, one side is for Chevrolet and the other side is for Ford. The hold down bolt is right behind the carb between the carb and the distributor on the left side as you face it from the front. Keep in mind that now you have to find out how to set the timing, that's what is changing when the distributor moves. It must be set to spec.
Click to expand...
I'll get it done but, the boat has been running and not bad at that...with the "floating" distributor. I've run it several times this season. I changed the fuel filter/ water separator and it started right up & ran fine. Then? It just decided to not start. We've "freshened" all that we can with fluids & ignition. Ran it all last season (until a wheel flew off the trailer) then winterized it.

Bottom line? As with many boats, it's a project. Fix/upgrade one thing & a new mystery appears.

Thanks for your support. I'll be back...I'm sure.
 
P

Proover

Cadet
Joined
Jun 7, 2022
Messages
20
Well, with new coil...nuttin. now, we'll check for spark & fuel flow.

FYI...my old coil wire...connector was packed with gunk. Didn't seem to be grease. Was soft malleable gunk. I cleaned it out. Was this a mistake? Is the coil end connector purposefully packed with some sort of conductivity "gunk"?
 
D

dubs283

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
5,332
Proover said:
Well, with new coil...nuttin. now, we'll check for spark & fuel flow.

FYI...my old coil wire...connector was packed with gunk. Didn't seem t o be grease. Was soft malleable gunk. I cleaned it out. Was this a mistake? Is the coil end connector purposefully packed with some sort of conductivity "gunk"?
Click to expand...
Older oem thunderbolt systems used a paste on the coil tower to prevent arching to the primary sides. Is okay to remove or leave in place

Newer styles are better sealed boots and don't need the paste
 
P

Proover

Cadet
Joined
Jun 7, 2022
Messages
20
nola mike said:
First time I've seen a coil replacement as a fix for a loose distributer...
Click to expand...
Not at all what's intended. It's just another guess re: non op. Old coil was 1997 vintage. 25 yrs old. Didn't fix it. Distributor is in original operating position. Twisting is met with resistance. It doesn't twist loosely.
 
D

dubs283

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
5,332
Proover said:
Not at all what's intended. It's just another guess re: non op. Old coil was 1997 vintage. 25 yrs old. Didn't fix it. Distributor is in original operating position. Twisting is met with resistance. It doesn't twist loosely.
Click to expand...
Still no spark situation? First WAG on a t bolt system is ignition sensor in the distributor.

There is a thunderbolt troubleshooting guide in the stickies, top of forum page.
 
Scott06

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,728
dubs283 said:
Still no spark situation? First WAG on a t bolt system is ignition sensor in the distributor.

There is a thunderbolt troubleshooting guide in the stickies, top of forum page.
Click to expand...
Shift interrupt activated ? Try disconnecting see if it rolls
 
P

Proover

Cadet
Joined
Jun 7, 2022
Messages
20
Scott06 said:
?Well, in our first novice attempt...no spark. We traced it back to the Ignition Control Module. Circuit is energized + on coil to ground on manifold; No energy + on coil to - on coil. Indicative of dead coil (it's brand new). No energy coil + to ground (gray wire) at ICM. Next? Find a 807829-1 or conversion 861251A1. Not on this planet apparently. & It would cost $600+.
Click to expand...

Anyone have one kicking around would let it go?

Question ;- how can I test the module to assure it's nonop...or not? While I wait, gonna repeat & concentrate on potential wire compromised.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top