1998 115 (E115SLECM) Tilt Motor Change

c6mcfall

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 19, 2013
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My tilt motor actually still works but its really rusted bad. Since I've got the boat on the trailer to do the WP thought i'd do the tilt motor before it goes. I didn't want to pull the motor if I can help it. Was hoping i could get to those rear screw by getting the top pin out of the trim cylinder. Never done this, hoping if I can get the weight off the pin i can knock it out. Ok to heat that up? What about the screws holding the tilt motor?
 

boobie

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Nov 5, 2009
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Raise the motor all the way up, block it up and then pull the pin. Remove the keepers that hold the pin first. The screws holding the tilt motor may be tricky.
 

c6mcfall

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I got the motor blocked and the keepers off.. So far damn pin not budging, soaking it more.. safe to hit with heat?
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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On a salt water motor it just may be best to paint the rust over and hope the motor keeps working !
 

jakedaawg

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Yes, you can try heat. I would suggest propane though. Acetylene may melt away the casting if you aren't really careful. Cast al gives no to little warning before melting into a blob on your shoe...
 

V153

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Granpappy Jack always liked to say, "Patience and penetration prior to pounding" ... (Probly couldn't get away with that these days ...)

Meaning: Soak the ever lovin crap out of it with penetrating oil for at least a few days. Then try poundin on it.

If all else fails then break out the "blue wrench". But as stated careful with the heat.

Fwiw I've had limited success with using an air hammer on em.
 

c6mcfall

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Yes sir! Prior to starting I had been hiding it with PB-Blaster for 4-5 days (each day when I got home from work). I got it out. Didn't use heat, just a bigger hammer. Once it started came out easy, bottom pin was a breeze. Bolts on the motor came right out no problem.. Good thing I did it, hole in back of the original motor was rusted to nothing. I got the trim sitting back in, will hook it up and test before getting pins set, etc.

I guess i will need to add some fluid, any words of wisdom on adding fluid and getting air out?
 

V153

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When I win the lottery. Rather than a swimming pool. I'm gonna install a big vat of PB Blaster out back ...
 

V153

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Atta boy!

Far as "purging" air out I dunno. Think yer just posed to fill it and cycle it up'n down a few times. Then re-check fluid level? Rinse and repeat ...
 

c6mcfall

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Jun 19, 2013
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When I win the lottery. Rather than a swimming pool. I'm gonna install a big vat of PB Blaster out back ...

works wonders. I was told that ATF mixed with some machine oil works just as good.. Anyone ever try that?
 

boobie

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ATF and Acetone mixed 50-50 works real good. Try it and find out.
 

V153

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Original "Liquid Wrench" was the best. But then the tree huggers took all the good stuff out ...
 

c6mcfall

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Jun 19, 2013
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Ok got the new trim motor on, now doing impeller and I'm going to disconnect the VRO oil.. I've been using it but i cleaned the tank replaced the hose, primer ball, filter and now the damn alarm "no oil" is going off... I was running idle on pre-mix with he VRO when the alarm went off..
 

c6mcfall

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I cleaned the VRO tank, new filter, new lines, new primer ball. I did bleed the air out and ran the motor at the dock @ idle (not in gear) for maybe 20 minutes. everything seemed exactly normal so I flushed it and put back on the lift. Week later, put it in the water check the oil level, check primer ball (usual startup proceedure).. Start's, it goes through the tree of lights on the beeps.. All the warning lights are off and seems normal, normal "smoke".. while I'm sitting there it all of a sudden slow's and stops, like no fuel, but i also seem to think I'm not seeing smoke.. I check, both fuel and oil primer are hard.. I hit the ignition and it starts, then almost immediately stalls. Again, no warning lights or alarms. I did compression check and getting between 135-140 across all cylinders.. Let it set for a while, (forgot to add the motor was not hot.. Could put my hand on and leave it on the motor, temp gauge reading just below 140). Got the premix hooked back up, starts and smokes (looks somewhat excessive in my opinion) but runs normal at idle. Under way, no wake zone (~2,000 RPM) for 15+ min, with the pre-mix running + VRO hooked up the no-oil alarm went off. Instinct kicked in and I shut it down.. Started it back up, goes through the tree sequence and no alarm, finish my trip to the boat ramp.. Took it home.

In the past I've always trusted the VRO, heard they will over-oil when they're on their way out. Truth or fiction, I don't know. When i first got this boat I did do a oil consumption test and it was fine, could do that again but I'm suspicious that something is going on.. I've been going back and forth on this.. I would rather run with the VRO but I don't want to make a mistake that costs me a motor.. So open to suggestions.
 

jakedaawg

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Might I suggest that while running pre mix you double check all the work you did. You are especially looking for restrictions and air leaks. What type of fuel line did you make the replacment out of? Personally, I only trust the OEM stuff. It has the wall thickness necessary to not colapse under suction, everything else I have found is not quite there...
 

jakedaawg

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When doing the maintenance you did it is imperative to treat this as a new tank and pump install. Manual dictates procedure. One important step is to verify self priming. This can be done at the end by marking oil tank and running on mix until you see a couple inches gone from tank. I would guess the no oil alarm was air lock or leak. The little plastic elbows and such are prone to breaking or cracking when messed with. You may have a small leak that went unnoticed.
 

flyingscott

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To restart the VRO after the oil line has been removed is this.
#1 Remove the oil line from the bottom of the pump. Be careful not to break the elbow.
#2 pump 16 oz of oil out of the line with the oil line primer bulb. This is to make sure you get the air out of the line.
#3 connect a pre-mix tank to the motor mixed at 50-1.
#4 start the motor and make sure the oil line is NOT connected to the pump.
#5 When the no oil alarm starts sounding reconnect the oil line to the pump.
#6 Wait for the alarm to stop sounding.
#7Do not pump the oil primer ball when you reconnect the oil line
 
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c6mcfall

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 19, 2013
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So sounds like maybe I didn't get it right the 1st time.. I did use OEM lines and clamps, will double check the connections and then will try as suggested below and see what I get.

To restart the VRO after the oil line has been removed is this.
#1 Remove the oil line from the bottom of the pump. Be careful not to break the elbow.
#2 pump 16 oz of oil out of the line with the oil line primer bulb. This is to make sure you get the air out of the line.
#3 connect a pre-mix tank to the motor mixed at 50-1.
#4 start the motor and make sure the oil line is NOT connected to the pump.
#5 When the no oil alarm starts sounding reconnect the oil line to the pump.
#6 Wait for the alarm to stop sounding.
#7Do not pump the oil primer ball when you reconnect the oil line

Will post back results.
 
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