1998 3.0L Volvo Penta Valve Adjustment Question

[bergadam]

I have seen a few posts that talk about the valve adjustment for the 3.0L engine which is mostly pretty straight forward. I went through and fully performed the valve adjustment procedure which is back off the adjusting screw until lash can be felt in the push rod and then tighten until lash is removed. Then went an additional one full turn (which is I guess to set the lifter). I did this while each cylinder was at the top of there firing stroke. I ran the motor and it seemed to perform pretty well but then I would start to hear a valve tick that would come and go. When I got the boat back to the garage I put the engine at TDC and now I have lash in the intake and exhaust vales on the #1 cylinder. Is this normal and if not why would they loosen up? Bad adjustment nuts? any help would be appreciated.

 

[bergadam]

Well I found out the problem!!!! Turns out the lifters are being destroyed by the cam shaft. The bottom of the lifters are concave and different heights in the #3 and #4 cylinder. Can anyone tell me what I did wrong as this was a newly rebuilt motor that I assume was from a reputable dealer? Was this a motor break in issue that ruined the cam(Motor has about 4 hours on it) that ruined the cam or was this a rebuild issue? I just do not want to make the same mistake once i put a new cam in it. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Grub54891]

Well,tough question. Who did the rebuild? I would contact the shop that rebuilt it and demand a complete new motor. A rebuilt should have had a new cam/lifter set to begin with. If the oil galleys are plugged,it'll just go away again,let alone the shavings that went through the rest of the bearings. Do not touch it with any wrench till ya get some ansers from the rebuilder.

 

[bergadam]

Zinc additive solved the next install! Use it!