Re: 2.5 Mercury build
Turned the key today and it fired right up so I'm feeling pretty good. Ive got a few other things to take care of this week so I wont get into final tuning until this weekend.
We'll start with the carbs. Remember this is a 2.0/150 that I'm turning into a hot rodded 2.5 so I'm using the original 2.0/150 carbs. Ive seen all kinds of advice about carbs over the years. Usually its more along the lines of "I want more power out of my 150" and the answer invariably is "put 200 carbs on it" . Dumb, bad advice. 200 carbs as is are jetted WAY too fat for a 150 not only on the main jets but also the air bleeds are all wrong. Sure the venturi MIGHT be bigger but that doesnt mean they will work worth a flip. In my case I am using 2.0/150 carbs on a hyperactive 200+ HP 2.5 . I can do this because I am using WMV-2 carbs. They are standard issue 150/105 HP jet carbs for 1996 and use the same castings as the 200 HP WMV-5's for that year . I duplicated the 200 HP main jetting and idle air bleeds and removed the back drag jets to fatten up the mid range/cruise. That's a starting point but it should be pretty close.
During this build I used very few specialized tools. For a normal engine rebuild where you aren't trying to diagnose or fix any problems there arent really any specialized tools needed to rebuild a Mercury V6. Sure you need a torque wrench and maybe a flywheel remover tool but those are cheap. One thing that I think is invaluable for Mercury work though is a zip tie tool with a pack of the proper tubing zip ties.
I use a paladin tools
McMaster-Carr
Along with the zip ties
McMaster-Carr