20 Plus year old hustler first part breaks

[alldodge]

Have had my Hustler Fastrack for over 20 years. Last year I put new deck bearings in and replaced belts. It didn't need the belts

Was cutting and the left wheel just stopped pulling. Find that a 5/16 rod snapped behind the jam nut. The part cost $32 for a 5/16 rod threaded with left and right hand threads. Hustler sure is proud of their parts. I managed to readjust the rod and got it going again, but there are only a few threads holding each end now. So thinking of repair or replace.

Repair, can weld the end back on, then re-thread the RH side (one that snapped). Could also get some rod and thread the ends. The cost would be the rod and a LH 5/16-24 die (I have the RH die).

Weld - not much cost
Rod and die - maybe $20
Replace - $32 + ship or gas

Maybe someone has other ideas

 

[cobalt1999]

Since the left thread is fine,
Cut head off a bolt then shorten rod to use bolt in place of cut off rod and then weld bolt to the shortened rod.
The picture I'm showing is the long threaded bolt unless a standard bolt has enough threads for what you need.
I've tried dies over welds and usually its not good. Welds are harder than the base metal.

 

[alldodge]

Good idea, and have thought of that, but only 5/16-24 bolts I have are SS. Could get one at the HW store. Guess I'll see what they want for it. I'm leaning toward a rod and another die, just because it would be real easy. Could use anti-seize to put back together and some paint to protect a tad. The original is zinc plated

 

[cobalt1999]

I missed the 24 thread pitch

 

[Scott Danforth]

Mcmaster has turnbuckle studs

 

[dingbat]

Just buy the $32 part.

If you value your time at all you’ve already spent $15 starting this thread. Add the materials and dies and your well over $32 before you start.

Welding changes the microstructure and temper of the material. Add in vibration from the machine and you’ll be doing it again shortly

 

[gm280]

I can understand both points of view. Yes, buying a new factory rod is quick and easy. However, some people enjoy doing their own thing to fix things and the price doesn't work into it. If we all view our labor cost into anything pertaining to boats or anything else, we all wouldn't be here on these forums in the first place.... JMHO

 

[alldodge]

I can understand both points of view. Yes, buying a new factory rod is quick and easy. However, some people enjoy doing their own thing to fix things and the price doesn't work into it. If we all view our labor cost into anything pertaining to boats or anything else, we all wouldn't be here on these forums in the first place.... JMHO

:thumb:

 

[Scott Danforth]

the $32 part is less than buying components from McMaster Carr

https://www.mcmaster.com/turnbuckle-style-threaded-connecting-rods

However most likely Hustler is using Midwest Control Products (Many OEMs do) . https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/products/rigid-links

 

[alldodge]

Bought a die off ebay for 8.58 and going to lowes today for other things and can get a piece of 5/16 rod for 6.00, will have 15 in it including tax

 

[Tim Frank]

Just buy the $32 part.

If you value your time at all you’ve already spent $15 starting this thread. Add the materials and dies and your well over $32 before you start.

Welding changes the microstructure and temper of the material. Add in vibration from the machine and you’ll be doing it again shortly

^^^ +1.

There is a reason that part lasted 20+ years. With the original spec it MIGHT be possible to replicate at home....the heat treatment would be critical....but too many potential landmines IMO.
On the other hand, probably nothing to lose with a DIY effort. Plan B can still be $32- if necessary.

For me, I'd spend the $32- and use the time saved for things i enjoy more.

 

[alldodge]

.the heat treatment would be critical

I like making things, and the oem part was not heat threaded, just mild steel that was zinc plated

Have one end of the rod threaded, just waiting on the LH die to arrive

 

[MTboatguy]

I am glad I have a metal lathe and mill, I could have whipped that out in a short amount of time, after I saw this the other day, come to find out, I have all the supplies in stock to do one pretty quick, for a heck of a lot less than what they want for a replacement and I could have done the heat treatment instead of zinc coating.!

 

[dingbat]

the oem part was not heat threaded, just mild steel that was zinc plated

Generally speaking, they don't use "mild steel" (whatever that is) in threaded or tension applications.

If it was zinc plated, it most likely was tempered prior to plating.

 

[alldodge]

I am glad I have a metal lathe and mill, I could have whipped that out in a short amount of time, after I saw this the other day, come to find out, I have all the supplies in stock to do one pretty quick, for a heck of a lot less than what they want for a replacement and I could have done the heat treatment instead of zinc coating.!

Always wanted a lathe but don't think I'm going to get one at this late age. I have my great GF tool box and all his gauges, dial indicators and other things. If I lived closer to you, would be nice to watch it being done

Generally speaking, they don't use "mild steel" (whatever that is) in threaded or tension applications.

If it was zinc plated, it most likely was tempered prior to plating.

Don't really have an answer, have never plated anything, but the Naval plant I worked at use to plate a lot of things, and it appeared to just be a tank of hot liquid, solution of some kind and electric current.

All I can say as a non-expert is I've tried to cut grade 5 and 8 bolts, and 8 isn't happening, and 5 is going to be slow going and a lot of work. This stuff cuts like mild steel. The pic is the piece that snapped off and I put a hack saw to it with just 5 strokes, and the vise damaged the threads while holding

 

[Scott Danforth]

AD, buy studs or set screws at your local ACE hardware

 

[alldodge]

AD, buy studs or set screws at your local ACE hardware

Esplain Lucey, no comprendy

 

[Scott Danforth]

instead of cutting the heads off of bolts, buy a long set screw or threaded stud.

 

[alldodge]

instead of cutting the heads off of bolts, buy a long set screw or threaded stud.

ok, but be easier (for me) with the rod and LH die

 

[dingbat]

All I can say as a non-expert is I've tried to cut grade 5 and 8 bolts, and 8 isn't happening, and 5 is going to be slow going and a lot of work. This stuff cuts like mild steel. The pic is the piece that snapped off and I put a hack saw to it with just 5 strokes, and the vise damaged the threads while holding

You're confusing hardening with tempering.

Tempering is performed to reduce some of the excess hardness/brittleness of the fastener. The metal is heated to a temperature level below its critical point after which the screw is left to air cool.

The ease which you cut thru the part would suggest the part was tempered

Common steels are SAE 1010 (machine screws, carriage bolts, and other fasteners); SAE 1018, 1020, 1021 (bright cap screws), SAE 1038 (high-strength bolts, studs, nuts, cap screws); SAE 1041, 1045, 1330, 1340 (special high-strength requirements), and SAE 1100 series (usually for nuts).