2000’s Bayliner 175 I/O

matt167

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I didn’t get out boating last year. Never worked on my big StarCraft and never got the little one out even once. The big StarCraft needs the outdrive hooked up and a bunch of wiring. I’ve been seeing Bayliner 175’s pop up in the marketplaces in the $3-5k range with the $5k boats looking pretty nice ( for a run of the mill bowrider ). Were they wood free solid worthy boats by 2007-2008? I’m curious because they seem so cheap. There’s actually a 2010 in the $5k range and an ‘08 that looks practically new for like $4500.
 

Pmt133

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I think the wood free models were later. That being said... they are "cheap" in the sense that when new they were ~10k new if memory serves.

My local sams club had one for a give away years ago, same era. Everyone and their mother let their kids climb all over the thing. It held up real well to that. It wasn't show stopping or of insane quality... but it was put together well enough, looked decent, and the materials were good enough. It's of comparable quality of anything else of that segment imo.

I did look at them for something to get out on while I was restoring the 84. 3.0l carb and alpha... about as bullet proof as an engine/drive combo comes.
 

Scott Danforth

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replace all the plastic thru-hulls if you get it, they will fail soon.
 

matt167

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I would look at a good aluminum hull, and forget the cheap glass hulls.
Have actually 2 since all I really like is StarCraft. Problem is big boat still needs a laundry list including paint, wiring , some assembly and tidying the back to back lounge seats need new plywood framing. comes down to cost vs enjoyment time. I’m not really sold on either idea, but my 14’ is ready to go at any given moment as it’s already restored and repowered. It’s just… small
 

Texasmark

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Having resurrected a well abused 1965 18'Starcraft 110 HP I/O...like sat half submerged in a marina for who knows how long...... The Starcraft and similar aluminum boats are easy to work on. Deck is plywood but easily removed. Transom probably not a problem but mine was and wasn't a problem to replace even with it being an I/O.

The under deck insulation is closed cell styrofoam sheets and didn't need to be replaced as they weren't waterlogged. All the stringers and supporting structure (except flotation) is aluminum so there is no problem with rotting there. The engine had yellow oil and I removed the engine from the boat (working alone and quite an undertaking but I did it) and metallic glued the crack in the middle of the engine block (JB weld)....which held for many years with out failure. Machine shop redid the head. Inspected the engine interior and didn't have to replace any parts.

Removed the outdrive and more JB weld on corroded aluminum parts so that gasket surfaces were adequate to hold a gasket and not leak. Redid the CV joint in the drive line. May have added some new bearings in the drive line. Replaced some parts in the shifter and clutch dog and seals in the LU.
Getting the bare hull sand blasted and painted plus getting the trailer disassembled and hot dip galvanized were a couple of interesting challenges but it all worked out.

The boat was perfect for the big, wind driven lakes around here and I really enjoyed it. If it had the 140 4 cyl Ford-Chevy conversion and PTT rather than just tilt, I would really have enjoyed it and would probably have kept it.
 

southkogs

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In '02 they weren't wood free. But I know that the construction methods had improved by then. My 02 started life as a dock boat up in Michigan, but it's been garage stored since I moved it to Tennessee.

For me, it's been a fine boat. Fit and finish is what you would expect out of an entry level boat. But it performs well enough.
 

matt167

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What year did they become wood free?

Big StarCraft probably needs 40 hours of work to really be ready but if I omit the paint and fixing seats, half that probably. Little StarCraft just needs to be gone through as it wasn’t used last year
 

Pmt133

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Like 2015 or so. I want to say the VR series was the first in the lineup.
 

airshot

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All depends on how it has been maintained, how it will be maintained, you get what you pay for, but many do not need the Queen Mary, just something to get on the water. Do keep in mind, in my area, aluminum boats hold resale value far better than glass boats.
 

matt167

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There is a 1978 Sylvan Sportster 18 listed for $6,200 that looks like it’s in great shape. It would be a very close cousin to my Offshore V 18 ( that has the list ). It’s got pretty mint looking mustard/ puke yellow interior which says something but being so old and original it’s suspect just due to age.

I may just run the little boat this year and then look at getting something newer next year, or something I can quickly redo and repower with a 4 stroke outboard, like a 90s StarCraft. I’d settle for a 90s Islander I/O though as that’s kind of a dream boat
 

matt167

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I’m still thinking about this. Bayliner 185 and 175’s are all pretty inexpensive. I found a ‘13 185 with the jump seats that can convert into a sun pad, and I think a little creativity I could hide some rod holders and down rigger mounts to make it dual purpose.
 

matt167

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How about a 1999 Bayliner 1950 BR? Is that a safe no frills good enough boat? I found one that the owner stores indoors. It looks pretty good, and he’s added some fishing accessories, but still hasn’t detracted from its pleasure boat usability. I know I’d have to inspect it good, but know what to look for ( and run away from ).

I’m looking at all brands, but the seating cockpit arrangement of the cheaper Bayliners with the jump seats in the back vs a long bench and sunpad is what steers me back to them as that is more dual purpose friendly. I’ve found a couple I think Sea Rays with that arrangement but one had a 4.3L and one had a 5.0L…. Call me crazy I want a 4cyl.
 

southkogs

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I think the BR 1950 is pretty close to what i have. So, same assessment. The Merc 4cyl isn't bad. I like the economy on it. But it's a loud little mug. My old inline 6 was so quiet that you could hear the exhaust bubbles more than the engine. The Merc in the Bayliner sounds like a helicopter.
 

Pmt133

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I repowered my 19 from a 3.0l to a 4.3. My fuel consumption stayed the same and I can actually hold a conversation and my ears aren't ringing after a run. :ROFLMAO:

For pushing around as heavy of a sled as it did though, the 3.0 worked. It just took a while.
 

airshot

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I would never consider an old glasser, way to many chances of a rotted structure. Nothing but aluminum for this old boy. As far as the 4 cylinder Mercruiser I/O....loved mine, great fuel economy and had a well insulated dog house so conversations were never an issue. It pushed my 22' Islanders about 35 mph, no complaints from mine...
 

Pmt133

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My dog house has about 2 inches of insulated foam on it. You cracked it open while running and it was really really loud. I think the problem was the space behind it on the back panel acted as a resonator of sorts and made it worse. It also pushed mine around 35 on average... cool fall day when the water was warm I could get a best of 37 mph. With a couple people 33 mph was about it and it pulled the RPMs way down. (4600 just me down to 4300 with a load) cruise was always 24ish. The fuel economy was good... with the 4.3 I cruise at 33 mph so the difference in speed means I get to locations while burning the same amount of fuel. Time spent running I obviously burn more per hour.

No complaints either. That engine got 1 carb rebuild in 20 years of ownership, plug changes and oil. I never did wires or a cap on it and it was dead nuts reliable. We paid 3 grand new for the repower. When I sold it after getting the 4.3 I got 1800 for it with 900 something hours on it. 1200$ for 20 years of service is perfectly fine in my book!
 
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