2000 Bayliner Capri 2050LX sole, stringer, transom repair

Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
Yatch Dr. - I was thinking of going with 2 rows of plywood stringers (staggering 4 stringers like you mentioned) but I think that will be difficult because of the hull shape. So, I will just go back with Bayliner's design. I was able to get the rest of the stringers out last night. I'm glad I listened to the advice to keep going. All of the stringers up front were wet and rotten. All of the black that you see in the picture below rotten plywood.

 

Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
Now that I have all of the deck, stringers and foam out I'm going to start grinding.

 
Joined
Jan 12, 2006
Messages
63
Erichlg.......keep up with the pics. There is a lot of info in thoses. I, myself, like to watch these rebuild threads. I read earlier in this thread that you plan on going with some of the non slip material. Like some of that stuff that a lot of the new fishing boats have in them? Also R u going back with the back to back drivers seat? My plans for mind is to remove my back to back and install a captains chair only. That way there is more room for the ski/ wake boarders to get back in the boat. Mind is a maxum 1900SR. 1996 / 6cyl. Mind is still in O.K. Shape as we speake, but that may change at any time. Keep up those pics.
Hump
 

Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
Hello Hump! The flooring will be much like the newer boats. I like the idea of not having carpet. The newer boats have a checkered floor that makes a non-slip surface. I don't think I can make that happen but I read somewhere that you can add non-slip material to the gel coat. I'll have to research that more. As far as the seats, yes I'll put the back-to-back seats in again. The biggest reason is I still have 5 kids at home and one in college so I need the seating. My boat has a seat on either side of the dog house (engine cover), the back-to-back seats, and the bow seats. The other reason is cost. The only problem with my seats are the rotted wood bases. That is pretty inexpensive to repair and the captain's chairs are not in the budget. I googled the Maxum boat. Pretty cool boat!
 

Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
Ok. After a vacation and some other chores I have been able to get a little more accomplished but I need some help. Here is what my transom looked like before I started grinding.
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Here is what the fiberglass looks like up close.
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Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
Here is a wider shot of the transom. The glass on the left side is lighter in color because I took off more material. I felt like I was getting down to the good fiberglass.
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Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
This is right above the transom where they tabbed in the wood. Do I need to grind this down?
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Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
Here are some suspicious spots on the bottom. This is under the starboard engine mount.
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close up
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Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
So, here are my questions.
1. Am I going too deep? (post 27)
2. Do I need to build it up before going back with the transom? (post 27)
3. If I build it up, how do I keep the thickness consistent? (post 27)
4. Do I need to grind at the top of the transom to get the "air pocket" out? (post 29)
5. Do I need to grind the weird spots on the hull? (post 30)
6. If so, do I need to build it up to flush with the rest of the hull? (post 30)
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
The MFG sure didn't do their best work on the outer skin of your transom. If it were me I'd mix up some PB and spread it over the rough and uneven spots using a broad putty knife. Doesn't have to be perfect but just to get her somewhat smooth. When the wood core gets clamped back on with additional PB it'll fill in any left over voids and low spots and flatten everything out. It'll all be back better than the factory boys did.;)
 
Joined
Jan 12, 2006
Messages
63
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Captain E...in posts 28 & 29....you can see where you ground the top coating to get down to the good stuff. Was that stuff hard to get off? Being that "Bayliner & Maxum's " are sister boats, mind is made the same way. I have ( as you do too) upper/bow compartments that the outer seal/coating is starting to crack and peel away. All my compartments ( front storage & ski storage along with the engine bay) have this stuff in them. Looks like it was sprayed on at the factory, not rolled on like in all the threads that I have read here. One of my ? is how they got that stuff to look like they sprayed the white on and then came back and added the drizzle in it to give it the look that it has. What is this coating? Is it fiberglass?
You have got this looking good!!!

Hump.
 

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Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
The MFG sure didn't do their best work on the outer skin of your transom. If it were me I'd mix up some PB and spread it over the rough and uneven spots using a broad putty knife. Doesn't have to be perfect but just to get her somewhat smooth. When the wood core gets clamped back on with additional PB it'll fill in any left over voids and low spots and flatten everything out. It'll all be back better than the factory boys did.;)
Thanks WOG!
 

Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
Captain E...in posts 28 & 29....you can see where you ground the top coating to get down to the good stuff. Was that stuff hard to get off? Being that "Bayliner & Maxum's " are sister boats, mind is made the same way. I have ( as you do too) upper/bow compartments that the outer seal/coating is starting to crack and peel away. All my compartments ( front storage & ski storage along with the engine bay) have this stuff in them. Looks like it was sprayed on at the factory, not rolled on like in all the threads that I have read here. One of my ? is how they got that stuff to look like they sprayed the white on and then came back and added the drizzle in it to give it the look that it has. What is this coating? Is it fiberglass?
You have got this looking good!!!

Hump.
Hey Hump. It really wasn't hard to get off, just VERY tedious work. I had Monday off for Labor day so I was able to get large blocks of time to grind. All I had left was the keel areas (front flotation, ski locker, gas tank, motor mount) and it took about 15-17 hours of non-stop grinding. I am using a Craftsman 4 1/2" angle grinder with the guard removed. I am using some 4 1/2", 120 grit, flap wheels from Harbor Freight. I think I have used 6 so far. I have few areas to touch up but I am mostly finished grinding.
As far as the coating, my front storage boxes looked just like that. I think moisture made it peel like yours is doing. I'm going to guess that it is epoxy. It is not fiberglass or paint.
 

Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
I would like to add that I agree with ALL the negative comments about grinding fiberglass! That is the worst job I have ever done. I'll post pictures soon.
 

Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
Quick update. I'm going to shift gears and pause on the fiberglass and wood work. I'm going to through the engine, outdrive, other odds and ends until spring. I'll post updates on those as I get to them.......
 

Erichlg

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
54
Project update. I have decided to move on from this project. If anyone is interested in picking up from here PM me. I'll make you a great deal on this.
 
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