2000 Larson 186 LXi Project

[JASinIL2006]

That boat looks almost exactly like mine! (Mine is an '97 186 SEi.) It has that same stringer/bulkhead system; I believe Larson started using it in our boats in '96 or '97. On mine, the floor was solid for the most part. The problem was water intrusion around the screws that hold the swim ladder to the transom. Yours has the two-step swim ladder bolted to the transom below the water line on the right side, I bet. Those holes were poorly sealed and allowed water to infiltrate into the wooden transom core and into the flotation foam. The floor in the engine compartment, just to the starboard side, was starting to show some rot from the water leaking in via the ladder.

If you have to pull the engine anyway, be sure to drill test holes in your transom (from the inside) focusing on the wood around and below any thru-hull fittings.

You really got lucky with your floor! I'm amazed it's not rotted!

 

[Sunken Ship]

That boat looks almost exactly like mine! (Mine is an '97 186 SEi.) It has that same stringer/bulkhead system; I believe Larson started using it in our boats in '96 or '97. On mine, the floor was solid for the most part. The problem was water intrusion around the screws that hold the swim ladder to the transom. Yours has the two-step swim ladder bolted to the transom below the water line on the right side, I bet. Those holes were poorly sealed and allowed water to infiltrate into the wooden transom core and into the flotation foam. The floor in the engine compartment, just to the starboard side, was starting to show some rot from the water leaking in via the ladder.

If you have to pull the engine anyway, be sure to drill test holes in your transom (from the inside) focusing on the wood around and below any thru-hull fittings.

You really got lucky with your floor! I'm amazed it's not rotted!

I agree the floor should be rotted out from neglect. I do think we have the same floor/stringer setup. Did you see the pamphlet I posted from John at Larson?

My ladder mounts are below the water line as you stated. I have been on it several times (almost 200lbs) and it appears fine. Will try standing on it tomorrow and focus on flex and gel-coat cracking in that area for sure now that you have mentioned it.

This poor boat has had a ROUGH life!

JAS what engine do you have?

Thanks for making your thread. It has already benefited me-my transducer was just laying in the bilge.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I agree the floor should be rotted out from neglect. I do think we have the same floor/stringer setup. Did you see the pamphlet I posted from John at Larson?

My ladder mounts are below the water line as you stated. I have been on it several times (almost 200lbs) and it appears fine. Will try standing on it tomorrow and focus on flex and gel-coat cracking in that area for sure now that you have mentioned it.

This poor boat has had a ROUGH life!

JAS what engine do you have?

Thanks for making your thread. It has already benefited me-my transducer was just laying in the bilge.

Standing on your ladder won't tell you anything. My ladder was solid. I noticed one of the machine screws was loose and I tried to tighten it... Things went downhill from there! You need to look behind the boards that cover the transom in the engine compartment. They are held onto the transom with screws.

My boat is powered with a carbed Merc 350 Mag in front of an Alpha One Gen 2 drive. It was repowered by the previous owner. I think it had a Volvo 4.3 L engine originally.

 

[Sunken Ship]

I just did the stab test with a Philips head screwdriver. It is very solid around the four nuts holding the ladder on. Maybe Larson fixed this by 2000? Mine has SS lag bolts with washer and nuts. I think you mentioned your boat had screws. I will remove the ladder and see if the wood is solid and dry at some point.

 

[Sunken Ship]

I went to my salvage yard yesterday and they lifted the short block out with a fork lift.Dropped the cylinder heads off at the machine shop to clean and magnaflux . I hope they come back fine-thinking wishfully at this point. He mentioned they would be done by the middle of the week. I laid out the valves in an old box to keep them in order. If good I will just put them back in the heads after a good cleaning then bag and wait for the rest of the internal engine parts to go through the machine shop.







Engine torn down and laid out (below). Pistons have virtually no scratching on the skirts. I will hold onto the pistons until I can source a block. Might just have the skirts polished and reuse after having the machinist look them over. Crank shaft was .010/.010 and the pistons were .020 from Jasper. This engine has very little use, so it would be a waste to throw away good engine parts just because the block is cracked. Not saying this is the best way, but I don't intend to "sink the ship" (monetarily) before the splash. Don't worry I won't reuse the oil pump, ANY bearings, rings, and engine gaskets after all this work for those who know engine rebuilding. :lol:





A rod was not thrown as I had suspected given the busted oil pan, must have been freezing water. Below is another picture of the block crack atop of no.1 cylinder. I am now thinking the engine problems all started with a busted manifold or riser leaking water into the engine then the freeze(s). PO did attempt to winterize by removing the hoses that I discovered, but she is busted nonetheless.





Planning to drop the manifolds, risers, crank, pistons and rods, and camshaft off at the machine shop whenever the heads come back. [fingers crossed] He said to bring the block in and he will see if he has a good core there. Would be great, pulling an engine at the yard does not sound like fun.

Lastly, taking starter and alternator up for testing as well.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I just did the stab test with a Philips head screwdriver. It is very solid around the four nuts holding the ladder on. Maybe Larson fixed this by 2000? Mine has SS lag bolts with washer and nuts. I think you mentioned your boat had screws. I will remove the ladder and see if the wood is solid and dry at some point.

I couldn't remember... I just went back and looked at some old posts/photos. The did through-bolt the ladder brackets. They just weren't sealed very well...

Glad yours is solid. That is great news!

 

[Sunken Ship]

Finally got the engine built and installed! Fired it today in the driveway. Man that is a sweet sound coming from a rebuilt engine! My machine shop had a 4.3 block that bored .020 over. As a result I recycled the pistons, which mic'ed out as almost new. Just polished all the skirts on them nicely. I reused the cam that was polished and inspected by the machine shop. Crankshaft polished and inspected as well, which and was .010/.010. Almost panicked when the rod bearings (old) had "0.25" stamped on them and the main bearings had ".010". Rod bearings were stamped in mm, never seen that before. I did install new rings, ALL bearings, oil pump and freeze plugs. Old cracked engine had very little use. Apparently the PO just let it freeze/crack, which then thawed and filled the cylinders/oil pan. Some history I learned about the POs, but that is not for here.



I purchased a 1/4" steel plate and really thick rubber/foam to seal the exhaust manifold. Just drilled 4 holes in the plate tso it would bolt up to the manifold. Then put 25psi after filling the exhaust cavities with water. No bubbles.


Dealing with some electrical problems now. I can see the PO was having issues with the fuel pump that I am digging into as the next project For today's test run I had to feed 12volts to the fuel pump directly from the battery. Was totally shocked the fuel pump and carb even worked after the neglect. I didn't even rebuild the carb, just adjusted idle up slightly.

Got new carpet (19') that is ready to go in, as soon as I get the engine finalized.


Took the outdrive and rolled it into the driveway on the skeg. Put the water muffs on it. I had to hold them on to get water to run out of the side of the outdrive. During test run I just held water to the sea pump intake (black nut).

 

[Bayou Dave]

You have come a long way in about a month. Splashing her should not be too far in the future.

 

[Jarcher3]

Wow! this should be a nice turnaround on a neglected boat!

Its nice to see some larsons on here. i just bought an 01 190 LXI

Subbed.

 

[Bayou Dave]

Wow! this should be a nice turnaround on a neglected boat!

Its nice to see some larsons on here. i just bought an 01 190 LXI

Subbed.

Mine is a 2002 SEI 190

 

[Sunken Ship]

It is great to see some others with pretty much the same boat on here.

I finished fixing the fuel pump that is now working correctly in the crank and run position, then started on the gauges.

PO had an old plastic tube gauge hooked up near the distributor for oil pressure, which was tossed during re-power. I got the correct brass pipe to connect an oil pressure sending unit as it was when new. This sending unit was laying in the glove box and almost pegs the gauge when cranked. I think the sending unit is a problem, so I will replace in due time. For now, I just want to make sure that I have a signal going to all of the gauges.

The temperature gauge appeared to be working fine during idle yesterday and went to about 175f on the water hose. Planning a longer idle now that the fuel pump is working. Will monitor various places with my thermocoupler when I do this.

Removed the alternator gauge and hooked it directly to the battery and it worked. Cleaned up and reinstalled. Easiest gauge of all and it showed no signs of life before being removed.

Pulled the tachometer and the motor was locked-up internally. Was able to get it unstuck and working again with various cleaners and lubes. Unfortunately, the plastic housing on the gauges are just crumbling upon removal. Will need to replace all of the gauges at some point. Engine and carpet has cleaned the boat fund for now, so this will wait.

Hoping to finish messing with the gauges tomorrow and lay some carpet. :laugh:

 

[JASinIL2006]

Looking good! Another Larson being brought back to life! Love it!

 

[Sunken Ship]

I FINALLY TOOK THE BOAT OUT FOR HER MAIDEN VOYAGE! (sorry I had to shout that). If the speedo is correct top speed was 45mph with the messed up prop. Cruise was about 30mph at 4500rpm (if tach is correct-don't think it is). What a difference in power from the old 40HP OB to this 190hp! WOW!

Interior is not ready yet, but bleach got rid of the mold that would not even come off with a 3M scratch pad. The outdrive seems OK. I did change the oil in the outdrive. It looked good, no water or "milk" inside.

The hull drain plug in the back is leaking slowly, but I kept in on the trailer long enough to make certain the bilge pump worked-shocker that it did. The black plug housing with the three Phillips head screws are loose, but the screws are tight.

Found a U-bolt is damaged badly on the trailer.


(still need to buff out the back)

 

[Sunken Ship]

Really need to figure out something for a boat cover soon. Boat will need to be outside, so I can get my two-car garage back. However, I don't want any rain getting inside. Not sure this boat can handle any more water inside. I used tarps on my old boat, but would like to do something better for this boat. Appreciate any suggestions.

Sent EZloader an email with the 5-digit number off the trailer. Trying to find the u-bolts.

 

[Bayou Dave]

Congratulations!!! You came a long way since you first looked at her. I bet you felt super great to get her on the water! If you have the space get one of these. It keeps my boat totally dry and lets me work on her in all weather conditions. That's my previous boat under the carport.

 

[Sunken Ship]

Looking at the 600D covers with the straps that go all the way around the bottom and top, but I am not sure if they are good for staying on. I might get one though and make PVC frames to keep the tarp up so the water stays out. Keeping her dry (inside) and winterize, winterize, winterize....

Dave, If I had room I would certainly go for one of those. My lot is rather unfortunate. I barely have 8' on the widest side of my house and only 6' on the other side. Boat will have to sit in my driveway. I am considering paying for dry-covered storage this winter. Since my driveway can't accommodate my truck (silverado ext cab) and the boat, I have to park my truck at an angle so the other side of the driveway (2 cars wide) remains accessible for garage entry and the truck is not blocking the sidewalk. Regardless of the parking situation the boat is here to stay.

I just couldn't believe the power it has (comparing to my old 40hp OB). It was amazing from cruise speed to WOT! Tried not to run it too hard since it is a fresh rebuild. My Daughter sure enjoyed the front playpen - smiled the entire time! She talked me into going back out a second time, then wanted to go more. Really just wanted to test the outdrive. Plan was to do circles in the harbor, but I headed straight for the wide-open.

Got in touch with EZloader for Ubolts...they are on the way. Going to replace all of them.

Next up is interior....

 

[Woodonglass]

I made a PVC frame for my boat similar to this...

Then draped a Harbor Freight tarp over the boat using bungee cords to keep her from blowing off. Works great and cost less than $50 bucks for the frame and Tarp. I bought the heavy duty Gray tarp when it was on sale 12'x18' for $19.99.

 

[Sunken Ship]

WOG...I used the same for my old boat. Got a fresh tarp every year after doing the floor/deck. I bought a tarp from HF for this boat too when it was outside during engine rebuild. Anything to keep the water out. I noticed I put the seat pedestals in wrong. This is what I have now (before interior):

 

[Bayou Dave]

"I noticed I put the seat pedestals in wrong." Because you put the flat parts in front? My flat parts are on the inside facing each other and look to be the same pedestals.

 

[Sunken Ship]

"I noticed I put the seat pedestals in wrong." Because you put the flat parts in front? My flat parts are on the inside facing each other and look to be the same pedestals.

Yeah, I noticed in one of the build threads here.

Wondering what you all are using for a Bimini top? Mine has two black adapters to the windshield with screws that appear to go to an old bimini top. You can see it in the pic over the back section of glass. Along the top of the windshield there are buttons all along the top of the windshield (see below). These buttons are not on the back sections of glass; only across the three front sections of glass. Are the button snaps part of an old bimini top? I have looked at old pictures and can't seem to make sense of them.