2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement

[snowman48047]

Started a small project today. I wasn't going too, I just got the oil and gearlube changed and a new fuel pump installed and was looking forward to the bass C & R opener next Saturday. I was going to simply replace the carpet on 2 pieces of wood in the bow because it would be a quick fix and I haven't seen to many Lund repair/resto threads so I thought this might help others.

Well I found a soft spot or 2 or 3 in the floor and decided after seeing all the other projects here I would fix it. I took out the 2 pieces at the bow and then the 2 pieces that made up the front deck. The upper bow piece is 2 pieces of 1/2", this I will sand smooth, re-seal and recover as planned (I think). The vertical support with the square opening was only 1/2" and is warped beyond belief so it will be replaced with new 3/4" or 7/8" whatever I replace the deck with...doug fir, aruco, etc. I was a bit confused at not finding ANY flotation foam under the deck. I may have to put something in.

I'm only going to do the front now and maybe do the rear deck next spring. I did the side bench/seat/storage covers last spring.

I have to admit after looking at some of the Starcraft rebuilds I was REALLY surprised to see all that aluminum under the deck. No wonder the Lunds ride like tanks.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement

How do your hatches covers attach to your decking? Is it a "Z" type piano hinge? I take it your hatch covers are 1/2" "thick" like your decking?

I ask this because changing decking thickness can create problems with getting your hatch covers to lay flush with the deck... it's nothing that can't be worked out with a craftsmanlike solution, but it'll be a little extra work.

 

[snowman48047]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement

Thanks for the heads up Jig...

They hatch covers are framed with a standard "L" piano hinge. The hatch just drops into a hole in the deck. I could have a 2 inch thick deck and they would still install just like factory. The original decking is 3/4". I wont be changing that thickness, just the vertical piece in the bow with the big hole in the first pic. I'll post up a pic later just to show ya, in case I'm missing something.

 

[greenbush future]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement

My Spectrum has no foam up front either, and thank god it didnt, because I was running new wires to all my horn and bow lights this weekend. It would have been tough if I had no access. Getting ready to add a bow trolling motor and that will take some wire routing too. And for what it's worth, my Spectrum is not even close to being as solid as my old Lund tyee, which I miss very much. Have fun with your project, new carpet is next on my list.

 

[snowman48047]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Here is a couple pics of the hatch and how it sits in the opening. Thanks again for the info. What would be best to strip off the old adhesive? Chemicals? sand blast?

I am finally getting around to mounting my planer board mast too. Will it be strong enough if the DIY base mounting bracket is through bolted or screwed in the bow deck? I will also be adding a U-bolt about 20" up from the floor.

I was thinking about adding a piece of aluminum plate maybe 1/4" under the floor but thought it might be serious overkill.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

For just that little bit of adhesive you can use a paint stripper chemical and then a wire cup brush in an angle grinder to remove any residue.

The aluminum backing plate for the mast will make for a solid worry free installation... the bigger the better!

 

[fishrdan]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

What would be best to strip off the old adhesive?

Lacquer thinner and a plastic bag are your friends, let the aluminum part marinade in lacquer thinner for 15-30 minutes and the old adhesive will easily wipe off.

All the seat backing plates on my Crestliner are 1/8" aluminum, I'd think that would work fine for the planer board mast. I'd probably put a plate on top too, to help spread the load.

 

[snowman48047]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Thanks for the info. I will chem strip and wire wheel it since I have both already. Brass or steel wires? Does the bare aluminum need to be primed? Will the vinyl adhesive stick to primer?

I picked up the 2 sheets of 3/4" Arauco ply last night and got it all cut using the old pieces as templates. Do I need to attempt to match up the old mounting holes as well? It seems easier to just redrill all the holes but... some are screws and some are bolts with nylok nuts.


Talking with a buddy about mounting this mast, he said it needs to be mounted as high and as far forward as possible. He suggested putting it on the "casting deck" as far forward as I can. The mast is about 5 feet tall. I don't think there is enough support at the base to pull big DIY boards through the chop. Second pic.

My idea was to mount it on the deck with a U-bolt or some other support level with the "casting deck". This seems alot stronger to me and should not be an issue but my bud says the 300lb test board line needs to be way above the water. First pic.

Which would be better? I have never had my mast mounted in this boat.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Steel wires will take the residue off quicker. You can prime but you don't need to, the wire cup marks will give the adhesive a lot to grip on. What kind of adhesive are you using?

I always just drill new holes for the deck fasteners, I don't think trying to match up the old holes would ever work... at least not for me.

I would use the lower mounting position for the strength, those boards put quite a bit of stress the mast.

 

[snowman48047]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

This is what I used for the carpet on the side storage and my trailer bunks. I'm going to have to read the label agan just to verify I can use it for vinyl.

And I am going to go with the lower position for the mast.

 

[snowman48047]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

I have all my deck pieces epoxied but something isn't right. I used a Marine 820 epoxy and I don't recall the label saying it was waxed but, there is a oily film on everything. Can I use laquer to remove it and rough it up for the adhesive to stick? Or am I scr......? Next step is an aluminum planer board mast mount and reinforcement and vinyl, after I wire wheel all 4 hatches.

I have been back and forth on using Nautolex or MeriDeck to recover my deck. I did a search on the rebuild forums that turned up 5 threads, 4 of them were from 2008! I ordered the Nautolex "natural" and a quart of adhesive since it appears there is not much info here on the MeriDeck, other than the cost being 3x higher. Has anyone used it or know of anyone? The other posts talk about it being a newer product in 2008.

Also, after looking at a bunch of rebuild threads I can't decided what fasteners I want to hold the new deck down. Others have used stainless screws and/or rivets. I had screws and bolts with nylok nuts, all stainless. Some the the screws had worked a bit loose, kind of pushing me toward rivets but screws would be easier. Plus I would need to beg/borrow/steal a rivet gun. I also can reuse 95% of the fasteners I took out. Any thoughts?

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

pop rivets will loosen in time from the wood expanding and contracting. Screws will do the same but can be tightened up down the road. I've used both and like screws and bolts the best If your fasterners are SS by all means re-use them.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Did you happen to see my Nautolex job?

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=509163

Put your epoxied deck pieces out in the sun for a day. I'm sealing my exterior door frames on my house with epoxy right now and the door frames have turned out fine and dried/cured well. My stir stick in the garage has the waxy sticky residue you speak of because of the lower temps in the garage and no sun. When the epoxy cures good hit the surfaces you're going to glue to with some 100 or 120 grit sandpaper to dull the finish and give the glue something to grip.

For fasteners I used rivets, screws tend to twist the vinyl as the head buries up for a flush fit. Rivet setting tools aren't expensive, 8-$20 for a one hand gun that will handle to a 3/16 dia rivet. You can get a heavy duty setting tool from Harbor Freight for $20 that will handle 1/4" dia rivets.

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-...and-riveter-with-collection-bottle-66422.html

 

[1988Starcraft]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

The waxy finish on your resin is called Amine blush (or bloom) and if you intend to attach anything to it, you should remove it. Fortunately it isn't hard. I worked for many years in the submarine design and construction business and we dealt with Amine bloom all the time. Of course the Navy's requirements were a lot more stringent and cleaning it was pretty complicated for us but it should be easy for you. Here's what I found:

When epoxy cures, a wax-like film called Amine blush may appear. It is merely a byproduct of the curing process and can be easily removed. It is a good idea to assume that it has formed on any cured epoxy surface. To remove Amine blush, wash the cured epoxy surface with an abrasive pad and warm, soapy water and rinse well. Dry the surface with a cloth or paper towels to insure removal of the dissolved Amine blush. Be sure to thoroughly dry the surface before the blush has a chance to dry. Sand any remaining glossy areas with 80 grit sandpaper. Wet sanding will also remove the Amine blush. ​

Relative to your question of rivets vs. SS screws and bolts, listen to jigngrub's advice. He was a big help with my recent refurbishing job. I used wide flange rivets to attach my floor to the ribs and center support of my 1988 aluminum Starcraft. and they worked great. If you've got most of the screws already, I see no reason to not use them again. My seats were held in with screws originally and I put them back in at the end of my job. I didn't make any attempt to hit the old holes when attaching my deck and never found that to be a problem. I found the information on this forum to be great and my job wouldn't have come out nearly as well without it. If you run into almost any problem, someone here will have experienced it and solved it already. Good luck. 1988 Starcraft

 

[snowman48047]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Quick update. I have the new vinyl but won't have the stupid adhesive for at least 2 more weeks due to it being on back order. Bass pro has it but it is double the price and 30+ miles from me.

If anyone has a simple project like this in the future, get all your supplies BEFORE you tear your boat apart!

Stay tuned...

 

[snowman48047]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Nice job on your vinyl jigngrub!

Thanks for the info on that waxy stuff 1988 Starcraft!

OK I finally got the adhesive and I'm going to get back into this project. On the rivets, can I just use standard rivets or should I used the same type for through hull jobs with no center hole? I'm thinking standard rivets are ok. Or I might just use all bolts with nylok nuts so tthe don't work loose.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Thanks for the compliment.

To fasten down decking, the standard open end rivets are good. For fastening metal to metal the closed end are the best.

 

[snowman48047]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

I've done a bit of searchng and can't find info....

How long should I leave the clamps on for the adhesive to set enough so I can move to the next section? Hours or overnight? How long to fully "cure" the Nautolex glue? Nothing on the can either...

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

It takes 3-4 days for the Nautolex 88 to fully cure in warm temps, a week or more in cooler temps.

What are you clamping?

 

[snowman48047]

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

Re: 2000 Lund Alaskan SS 20' floor replacement- board mast install

I have c-clamps and 1x2s to lightly apply pressure so the adhesive will stick the vinyl to my aluminum hatches. They are also a different style than yours appear to be. You have an visible aluminum frame where mine are covered (or will be) with the vinyl.