2001 Johnson 70 Carb mixtures

racerone

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The pulse limiter is a " flow fuse "----It protects the VRO pump HOUSINGS from high pressure.----Those housings could crack due to their size.-------Note the 65 HP " commercial " model of your motor uses a conventional pump and does not use the pulse limiter.----And that 65 HP motor is exactly the same motor as your 70 but marketed as a commercial motor.
 

Tim Frank

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Jul 29, 2008
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I just took the carbs off and found that one jet/valve seat is a larger diameter than the others and was stripped out by the last guy! ( looks like he couldnt get it out and just replaced the rest of them) The right tools make the difference..but they will get a good cleaning and new parts. Plus a new nipple for the pulse limiter, I'm making headway and I will keep digging.

thanks !!

If you mean the "orifice plugs" make sure that you verify what you have. You cannot assume that any of them are correct.
 

Landon116

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Feb 21, 2018
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I appreciate the reply, thank you. That tells everyone that you have no back history of it... and we go from there. Whether that pulse limiter creates a problem or not, I've no idea but it's best not to use it with a regular fuel pump.

New carb parts, they looked great to begin with. ( I've rebuilt plenty of carbs so I know what to look for).
Pulse fitting replaced with nipple.
Started up decently. I turned the mixture screws to get a decent high consistent idle. In idle in neutral it will idle okay, high idle. It will die after about 1 minute of running. The same think in gear. I tried to set the slow speed jets in gear and it wont stay running long enough.

if I set the idle high at idle, ( like 1000) it will still die in gear.

I am running it in a huge test tank.

the primer bulb will get soft after running it and i can pump it about 3 times before it goes hard again. Normal??

at higher speeds ( 2000 rpm ) it runs good. This is and always has been a slow speed issue.

ideas ?
 

Landon116

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Anyone have a part # on a Non vro pump? I have found 0438557 it looks like its the same and fits a wide array of models.

As i side note, i popped the fuel pump apart ( which looks like a cheapie chinese knock-off) and it appears one part of the upper diaphragm is open to the nearest bolt hole. almost like it was made wrong or assembled wrong. Either way im replacing it, ive lost enough parts of it anyways to replace it... lol

What an aggravation, after a night of trying to get the 2 stroke to run, i think im going to leave the lock off of the trailer tonight.... :facepalm: :mad-new:
 

Joe Reeves

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Apparently iBoats is having a problem with their site program... or my machine just won't coincide with it. At any rate, replying with a quote is impossible so I'm reduced to the copy/paste quote here from post # 19 as follows. You stated: "I just took the carbs off and found that one jet/valve seat is a larger diameter than the others and was stripped out by the last guy! ( looks like he couldn't get it out and just replaced the rest of them)" That has me thinking that the previous owner screwed up the jets good and finally figured out that the proper way for him to fix the engine was to sell it. Get yourself a set of drill bits that are graduated in thousands... and a manual or some kind of information sheet that states "exactly" what size jets belong in that engine and in what location... then compare what ID size those jets actually are by using the drill bit shank as a guide. Note, for example, that say a .030 jet will allow a .031 drill bit to possibly pass tightly through but nothing beyond that. Also note that the small slow speed and intermediate jets look alike in their physical size BUT have far different ID sizes. The size is imprinted on the face of these jets... a number (example) imprinted such as a plain 48 would translate to .048 . The larger jets have the number size imprinted on the side of the jets. If it were me... I'd get the jet size/location perfected before going in any other direction.
 

Joe Reeves

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Damn.... Not only does the "quote" command not function... neither does the "edit" command function so that I could return the above entry back into the separate paragraphs designed for easier reading. Will try double spacing here.

Many years ago, iBoats changed to a site program that was perfect, a improvement beyond comprehension... and I complimented them on it and received an immediate response of appreciation...... then, apparently one day they hired a upcoming electronic genius (sigh).
 
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Landon116

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Damn.... Not only does the "quote" command not function... neither does the "edit" command function so that I could return the above entry back into the separate paragraphs designed for easier reading. Will try double spacing here.

Many years ago, iBoats changed to a site program that was perfect, a improvement beyond comprehension... and I complimented them on it and received an immediate response of appreciation...... then, apparently one day they hired a upcoming electronic genius (sigh).

I thought I was going crazy, I could have swore that I saw an edit function! Haha.

thank you Joe for all of this information!

I was able to get my hands on a new Oem fuel pump that works with the non-vro set up. I tested all three ignition coils and noticed #1 had a weak spark. Ohm'ed them out and found it had a much high resistance than spec. The other two were dead on. Replaced the coil of course. New primer bulb as I was kind of worried about the old one as well.

It ran and idled MUCH better. I was able to get out on The local river and fine tune it. I got it running as good as I'm going to need it!

It idles high in neutral ( 1100-1200 rpm) but decent in gear (850-900). I am hesitant to even mess with it.

Also, suggestions about this: To get out of forward gear I have to move my remote control lever ALmost to reverse and back up a little to get neutral. I think this is going to be related to the two cable thumb adjustment knobs at the engine I have been messing with.

I will be comparing the low speed jets to spec, I have new main jets in it as of a few days ago.

sorry about rambling on, but your info has been very useful. Thank you!!
 

Joe Reeves

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********************
(Centering Shift Cable)
(J. Reeves)

When all is as it should be, the proper method to adjust the shift cable is to disconnect the cable from the engine. Move the shift linkage on the engine to find the center of the play in neutral, and when found, leave it centered.

Now, grab the end of the shift cable sleeve, push and pull it to find the center of the play there, and center that play.

Adjust the trunion on the threaded portion of the shift cable so that the centered play of the cable lines up with the centered play of the engine's shift linkage. Install and lock the shift cable with the retaining clamp in that position. That's it.
********************
 

Landon116

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********************
(Centering Shift Cable)
(J. Reeves)

When all is as it should be, the proper method to adjust the shift cable is to disconnect the cable from the engine. Move the shift linkage on the engine to find the center of the play in neutral, and when found, leave it centered.

Now, grab the end of the shift cable sleeve, push and pull it to find the center of the play there, and center that play.

Adjust the trunion on the threaded portion of the shift cable so that the centered play of the cable lines up with the centered play of the engine's shift linkage. Install and lock the shift cable with the retaining clamp in that position. That's it.
********************

Thank you Joe. I completed this with success.

Do you have a method for the correct way to adjust the throttle cable? I think I screwed up by adjusting the idle with the thumb wheel at the threaded portion of the cable.

And could you also post a timing and idle method for this engine if you have one? I have seen some "joe reeves' timing method" links here and there but not sure which one I should follow.

Thank you in advance!!

EDIT: I wanted to add in that I have a Seloc service "manual" but I find that its more aggravating than useful when trying to find this info. I have been trying to track down an OMC service manual and so far I found one for a year 2000, which might work for my 2001 (?); I am surprised to find no one has made a downloadable free PDF of the factory manual like SO many older engines. Oh well..
 
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Joe Reeves

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(1) - Do you have a method for the correct way to adjust the throttle cable? I think I screwed up by adjusting the idle with the thumb wheel at the threaded portion of the cable.

(2) - And could you also post a timing and idle method for this engine if you have one? I have seen some "joe reeves' timing method" links here and there but not sure which one I should follow.

1 - Setting the idle when all else is as it should be...... Keep in mind that I retired in 1991, and that your engine is a 2001 model, indicating that I have no knowledge of the engine's design or circuitry... you're on your own in many areas unless another member jumps in here with definite advice.

Adjusting the throttle cable for a idle setting is simply a matter of finding the "Idle Stop Screw" on your powerhead which prevents the throttle from dropping any further back than from where you set it. To start, back the screw away so that it touches nothing... Now, adjust the threaded trunion on the cable so that the idle is exactly where you want it... then adjust that stop screw in to touch the "stop". That's it. However, you will probably need to repeat this process a few times as opening the throttle, then closing it as will be encountered naturally as the boat is operated, the cable play will interfere and a correction will be required...... usually the idle ends up still being a little too high and the trunion requires readjustment.

2 - The following should be suitable to check the "Full Spark Advance" timing... BUT... hopefully a member with absolute knowledge of your 2001 engine will advise should I be in error.

********************
(Timing At Cranking Speed 4°)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE:If your engine has the "Fast Start" feature", you must disconnect/eliminate that feature in order to use the following method. The "Fast Start" automatically advances the spark electronically when the engine first starts, dropping it to normal when the engine reaches a certain temperature.

The full spark advance can be adjusted at cranking speed,"without" have the engine running as follows.

To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).

Rig up a spark tester on the #1 cylinder plug wire. Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4° less than what the engine calls for.

It's a good idea to ground the other plug wires to avoid sparks that could ignite fuel that may shoot out of the plug holes. I've personally never grounded them out and have never encountered a problem but it could happen.

I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28°, set the timing at 24°. The reasoning for the 4° difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition components, the engine gains the extra 4°.

If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4° which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place.

No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting.

A fellow member from one of the various marine forums suggested having water supplied to the water pump (flushette or barrel) simply to provide lubrication to impeller. A worthwhile suggestion I thought, and entered here.

Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.

********************
 
Joined
Mar 7, 2019
Messages
53
Keep in mind that the idle adjustment screw my be metering "idle air" mixture rather than fuel, In this case I would lightly seat the idle mixture screw, then back off in 1/8th rotations until stoichimetric mixture is obtained (I have only seen these in OMC carbs).
 

Landon116

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Feb 21, 2018
Messages
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1 - Setting the idle when all else is as it should be...... Keep in mind that I retired in 1991, and that your engine is a 2001 model, indicating that I have no knowledge of the engine's design or circuitry... you're on your own in many areas unless another member jumps in here with definite advice.

Adjusting the throttle cable for a idle setting is simply a matter of finding the "Idle Stop Screw" on your powerhead which prevents the throttle from dropping any further back than from where you set it. To start, back the screw away so that it touches nothing... Now, adjust the threaded trunion on the cable so that the idle is exactly where you want it... then adjust that stop screw in to touch the "stop". That's it. However, you will probably need to repeat this process a few times as opening the throttle, then closing it as will be encountered naturally as the boat is operated, the cable play will interfere and a correction will be required...... usually the idle ends up still being a little too high and the trunion requires readjustment.

2 - The following should be suitable to check the "Full Spark Advance" timing... BUT... hopefully a member with absolute knowledge of your 2001 engine will advise should I be in error.

********************
(Timing At Cranking Speed 4°)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE:If your engine has the "Fast Start" feature", you must disconnect/eliminate that feature in order to use the following method. The "Fast Start" automatically advances the spark electronically when the engine first starts, dropping it to normal when the engine reaches a certain temperature.

The full spark advance can be adjusted at cranking speed,"without" have the engine running as follows.

To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).

Rig up a spark tester on the #1 cylinder plug wire. Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4° less than what the engine calls for.

It's a good idea to ground the other plug wires to avoid sparks that could ignite fuel that may shoot out of the plug holes. I've personally never grounded them out and have never encountered a problem but it could happen.

I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28°, set the timing at 24°. The reasoning for the 4° difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition components, the engine gains the extra 4°.

If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4° which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place.

No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting.

A fellow member from one of the various marine forums suggested having water supplied to the water pump (flushette or barrel) simply to provide lubrication to impeller. A worthwhile suggestion I thought, and entered here.

Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.

********************
[/QUOTE]

Joe,

Thanks for all of that info. I think my engine has the QuikStart feature because it has two wires coming from the cylinder head temp sensor. One of them being a White/Black Stripe wire.

I grounded that wire as said by others to do in various forums.

However: When checked with the timing light at full throttle, plugs out, and top cylinder hooked up and grounded, the timing shows over 28 degrees and no matter what I do with the max adjustment screw it will not come down.


So I assume either the QuikStart feature is not being effectively disabled or something is very wonky.

What do you think?

Thank You!!
 
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Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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13,262
I don't recall if grounding that wire or simply disconnecting it knocks out the"Fast Start" feature... another member will no doubt advise you on that.

In changing the "Full Spark Advance" timing... The timer base needs to be set at its fullest to start with, however I'm not familiar with the linkage setup on the 2001 70hp model.
 

Landon116

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Joined
Feb 21, 2018
Messages
40
For anyone's future reference in case others have a rough running Johnson 70 (or any similar Johnson):

My rough running new-to-me engine was solved with the following:

Replacing the pulse limiter with a barbed fitting since the VRO was eliminated ( not sure if this fixed anything actually, but still.)
Rebuilding the carbs with new parts. (Found main jets were screwed with previously.)

Cheap Chinese fuel pump was taken apart to find that the diaphragm was not centered correctly. (Replaced with new Johnson unit.)

Primer bulb was not holding prime effectively.

Performed Link & Sync as per FACTORY manual.

Re-adjusted timing. (was not set correctly) Also, only way I could set it without the Fast Start interfering, was to let it warm up and max out the timing by hand, and read with timing light.

Set the throttle cable to not interfere with idle speed and adjusted idle speed with timing only.

Ohm'd out the ignition coils and found one coil was out of specified resistance, providing weak spark.

It still has an occasional little hick up, but not a problem. Just traveled several hours of near full throttle operation and multiple no wake zone idling areas, no problems.
 
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