2001 Yamaha 150TXR idle issues WHEN HOT / WARMED UP / HOT SOAK - Carburetors

Super Dave

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Sep 1, 2008
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Hello - new here (again) 150TXRZ on Century 1900: Last 1 1/2 yrs or so having intermittent idle issues, pop/sneeze after idle slowly crawls down to 300 rpm from 600-700 rpm in or out of gear - only after driven a while & stopped (hot soak) or of course trying to drive-on trailer or dock -- runs fantastic at high (3000+ rpm) speed - however I hear what sounds like misfire at 1/4-1/3 throttle if held there while climbing up but not quite on plane(heavy load). I'm a Toyota guy 20+ yrs but still remember carbs well and have all the tools so I r/r & overhauled all 3 w/genuine Yamaha kits. Also replaced 10 micron, plugs, t-stats, and checked pumps (about 1 year old). Carbs were cleaned THOROUGHLY, soaked, sprayed and blown w/compressed air. I'm reluctant to run wire through orifices, especially the pilot circuit air holes. All jets looked bright gold and clear once viewed through a 30x magnifier. Once all completed I was excited that it was (probably) cured, when running on the hose at idle 800-900 out of the water, I get a 'ppmmmmm-pmmmm sound on occasion and a puff of blue smoke from hub immediately when the sound occurs. Generally would idle all day on the hose, but add back pressure of the water and the 'pmmmm' sound sounds more like a muffled pop/backfire (even though there is NOT a back fire - just sounds like a muffled one), some smoke comes out of the water then undoubtedly it will start to idle down and finally sneeze upon stalling. Sounds/feels like a missfire especially when running under 1/2 throttle under load, but all signs point to lean. (if it were a car the opposite would be my diagnosis, loading up & flooding - this is not the case here. Choke feathering when idle starts to drop will save it if caught in time. Questions: Did I miss something? What is the correct turns out for the pilot screws? (in case I forgot to count upon disassembly) Could a coil pack or two be fooling me - and be so intermittent?
Note: Fuel system clean, new lines last year, new 10 micron every year, was running e10 but not anymore, add ring free every other tank, compresion 108-114 all 6, reeds all look great and all 36 are closed, carbs were synched properly, timing was checked 5deg ATDC idle,
 

99yam40

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Re: 2001 Yamaha 150TXR idle issues WHEN HOT / WARMED UP / HOT SOAK - Carburetors

Your Yamaha service manual gives the proper link and sync procedure and carb adjustments needed.
Maybe you need to do a ultrasonic cleaning of the carbs
Sounds like a lean sneeze if choking helps
 

Super Dave

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Re: 2001 Yamaha 150TXR idle issues WHEN HOT / WARMED UP / HOT SOAK - Carburetors

Your Yamaha service manual gives the proper link and sync procedure and carb adjustments needed.
Maybe you need to do a ultrasonic cleaning of the carbs
Sounds like a lean sneeze if choking helps

YES, my manual states "1-turn out" on pilot screw, but so many others are stating port/stbd side of the engine are to be different (like 5/8 one side - 1 1/8 the other), just wasn't sure if each year is different. The link/synch is clear and perfect (vacuum hose in the ear held in each barrel sounds the same - my high-tech metering device) - you are likely right on the carbs - i'm getting real quick at removal/install so one more time, maybe I can find a sonic cleaner at a local machine shop. I'm getting tired of it. Maybe the super clean sexy look after a 3-hour soak & spray is only the surface. Problem is the boat sits for months at a time.
 

noelm

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Mar 8, 2005
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Re: 2001 Yamaha 150TXR idle issues WHEN HOT / WARMED UP / HOT SOAK - Carburetors

not too sure your "high tech device" is of any use at all, the carbs need to be done properly, not sprayed and so on, the mixture screws need to be set first off at around 1 turn out, but after that they are adjusted one by one, so none of them will be the same, listening to vacuum will not have anything to do with the "link and sync" being right! it refers to the way the carbs and timing and throttle pickups are all set to be in "sync" as the manaul tells you.
 
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Re: 2001 Yamaha 150TXR idle issues WHEN HOT / WARMED UP / HOT SOAK - Carburetors

You can use wire as in strands of DC wire to clean the orfices you just don't want to use welding tip cleaners or other devices that can damage the size of the orfice.
 

Super Dave

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Re: 2001 Yamaha 150TXR idle issues WHEN HOT / WARMED UP / HOT SOAK - Carburetors

As I understand it the link/sync has strictly to do with the throttle linkage to assure all 3 carbs begin to open at precisely the same time. I only listen to the vacuum to insure all have the same pitch sound both at the throttle plates and the orifices in the barrell (it has proven useful in the past on multi carb cars and an old Merc 3cyl I had). The carbs were done 'thoroughly' in my first opinion, having disassembled all brass from the aluminum and soaking the body & bowl for about 2-3 hrs in a carb dip, then using a throttle plate solvent cleaner spray afterwards, then compressed air. Right on re: tip cleaners - I should use wire, just never wanted to score any aluminum - I'm ok with the 1-turn out - it's what I did, just cannot determine how to fine-tune beyond that ONE AT A TIME, there are six of course and tried slight 1/8 at a time out adjustments and there seems to be NO detectable change - my local tech said they don't use metering vacuum devices on this model. Is that right? I ask because I don't trust that guy to leave the carbs, or the boat for that matter, with him.
 

Super Dave

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Re: 2001 Yamaha 150TXR idle issues WHEN HOT / WARMED UP / HOT SOAK - Carburetors

Finally nailed it! My carbs weren't quite so perfect after all. Pilot immulsion bowl area on 2 carbs had little aluminum flake in them enough to cover one hole at times or at least slow flow at pilot screw. Makes since for the intermittent nature. NOW they are pristine and I added 1/8 turn out to the screws. Runs like new now.
 

99yam40

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Re: 2001 Yamaha 150TXR idle issues WHEN HOT / WARMED UP / HOT SOAK - Carburetors

4 strokes are the only Yamaha motors that I know of with a place(ports) to hook up manometers (vacuum line)

Good to hear things are back to running good,
Thanks for the update.
I wish everyone would post the final fix for their problem
 
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