2003 Bayliner 3.0 Mercury mercruiser grease fittings?

ilove2fixx

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The to much is when it makes a mess. It will just get pushed out somewhere and if you don't see it just makes a mess.

Same thing happens with the gimbal bearing, you are not able to see the grease come out unless the drive is off. So the more that gets pumped in, the more it just builds up.


and thats the thing i dont want it to build up becuase i heard from another mod on this forum to another peer, that he has to take out everything and clean up the mess for putting to mucvh grease lol.. i dont want that to happen to me, and at the same time i want to make sure grease is getting in there.. i will try another 2 pumps for the gimbal and another 2 for each side ones.. thanks bud
 

ilove2fixx

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test with some PB Blaster, Kroil spray, penetrating oil,etc.sprayed at the upper shaft/housing. If it goes away then you need to install the grease fitting

Hey bud the squeking is gone! I sprayed the top center hinge and bottom center hinge and now smooth as butter.. BUT there is still rubber friction noise from all the hoses to the left side of the unit , is that normal ? Im swinging it from side to side, but it only swivels like 90-110 degrees i would say is that normal ?
 

Bt Doctur

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whats left is most likely just the rubber moving around. Sound about right. Depending on how corroded it is will determine how long you have before the water starts leaking in from the steering arm.after the seal is destroyed by rust. Installing the grease fitting is not that difficult .You just need to be carefull when drilling .
Follow the pics and instructions and you do fine.
SLOW AND STEADY
 

ilove2fixx

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whats left is most likely just the rubber moving around. Sound about right. Depending on how corroded it is will determine how long you have before the water starts leaking in from the steering arm.after the seal is destroyed by rust. Installing the grease fitting is not that difficult .You just need to be carefull when drilling .
Follow the pics and instructions and you do fine.
SLOW AND STEADY

So by making that grease fitting itll stop it.from ever leaking in ?
 

ilove2fixx

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Also i took out the steering rod and extended it fully , it had old baked on grease and i cleaned it all up , what next? Grease or wd40 ? The whole extended part the inner and outer ? And how about the threaded rod ? It had hard buhardinside i cleaned it up niceley .
 

Bt Doctur

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a 12 gauge brass shotgun cleaning brush works wonders.
All I know is that the older models that have a grease fitting dont leak.
Installing the fitting will stop a slight leak and help prevent a leak from corrosion and seal damage.
 

ilove2fixx

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Ayuh,..... Grease,.... Slather it all up, assemble it, 'n wipe off any excess,....

so a light coat all over the metal rod both parts and the inner and outer and the inner of the threaded tube that the rod goes into as well? or is greasing the rod enough?
 

ilove2fixx

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a 12 gauge brass shotgun cleaning brush works wonders.
All I know is that the older models that have a grease fitting dont leak.
Installing the fitting will stop a slight leak and help prevent a leak from corrosion and seal damage.

ok ill do the grease fitting , thanks bud
 

ilove2fixx

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oh yeah i did hear from another Admin to a peer that to much grease causes build up and it hardens up later on? but if i do it yearly that should be ok ?
 

ilove2fixx

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Hey guys i put.the steering back and its still kinda stiff?? When unhooked from motor its 3 times easier i can steer with 2 fingers ? How easy shoukd it steer without it hooked ? Maybe the steering is bad but it seems a heck smoother unhooked .
 

alldodge

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Hey guys i put.the steering back and its still kinda stiff?? When unhooked from motor its 3 times easier i can steer with 2 fingers ? How easy shoukd it steer without it hooked ? Maybe the steering is bad but it seems a heck smoother unhooked .

You have another thread which other folks had discussed the issues and you where have trouble. Without going to look it up again, I think they where telling you to lube it up and if that didn't work your going to need to replace it.

That said it will bit a bit harder to steering hooked up with the motor off, but not that much harder
 

ilove2fixx

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Here is links to steering hooked up and unhooked .. tell me what you guys think . Is it the cable ? One thing to, when the rod is disconnected and extended fully should i be able to push it back in with my hand ? I saw a video of someone doing that? I couldnt push it back even a millimeter..

Unhooked
https://youtu.be/4AjCJ8Ppws4

Hooked up
https://youtu.be/tVbKp5MqCMM
 

alldodge

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You have a squeak when turning the wheel and with it hooked up, squeak would tell me something. No, you should not be able to push it back in easy while attached to the helm. It should be easy to push the cable in/out if it is not attached to the helm.

Were here to help but from my point of view I'm just going to be blunt. No one want's to spend any more money then they need to, but your trying to get by cheap. The give away to me was the comment about draining the gear lube the first time and reusing it because it looked ok, and going to reuse again.

Both the helm and the upper pivot pin have a squeak, and in my opinion they need to be fixed. BT gave you a method to lube the pivot pin, as for the steering you need to take the cable out of the helm, check the grease in side the helm, and how easy the cable moves on it's own.
 

ilove2fixx

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You have a squeak when turning the wheel and with it hooked up, squeak would tell me something. No, you should not be able to push it back in easy while attached to the helm. It should be easy to push the cable in/out if it is not attached to the helm.

Were here to help but from my point of view I'm just going to be blunt. No one want's to spend any more money then they need to, but your trying to get by cheap. The give away to me was the comment about draining the gear lube the first time and reusing it because it looked ok, and going to reuse again.

Both the helm and the upper pivot pin have a squeak, and in my opinion they need to be fixed. BT gave you a method to lube the pivot pin, as for the steering you need to take the cable out of the helm, check the grease in side the helm, and how easy the cable moves on it's own.

Yes im trying to save money, thats why ther3s forums lol The gear lube oil is new i just put it in and never started the motor yet, anyone would reuse that oil as well. Ok i will.open the helm area and grease or lubricate whatever seems dry
 

ilove2fixx

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You have a squeak when turning the wheel and with it hooked up, squeak would tell me something. No, you should not be able to push it back in easy while attached to the helm. It should be easy to push the cable in/out if it is not attached to the helm.

Were here to help but from my point of view I'm just going to be blunt. No one want's to spend any more money then they need to, but your trying to get by cheap. The give away to me was the comment about draining the gear lube the first time and reusing it because it looked ok, and going to reuse again.

Both the helm and the upper pivot pin have a squeak, and in my opinion they need to be fixed. BT gave you a method to lube the pivot pin, as for the steering you need to take the cable out of the helm, check the grease in side the helm, and how easy the cable moves on it's own.
Very little sqweak when unhooked , cant that be from the helm or steering wheel area ? Is it supposed to move easier that what you saw on the video?
 
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alldodge

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The vid didn't provide much insight. Do the gear teeth look good, is there any metal shavings or particles?

What do the groves on the cable look like, anything abnormal?

What does the inside of the rack look like, signs of wear?
 

ilove2fixx

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The vid didn't provide much insight. Do the gear teeth look good, is there any metal shavings or particles?

What do the groves on the cable look like, anything abnormal?

What does the inside of the rack look like, signs of wear?

All looks good really, all gears look good. Cable has no abnormalties.. im holding it upright with a tight tube around it and a pound of wd40 working its way down the cable.. tomorrow ill see how smooth it moves and hook it back up to the rear unit and see.. of still hard then ill just buy a new cable with attached rack.. no need for the steering column right?
 

alldodge

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Good plan to pour it in but WD40 is not a lubricate, it's a water displacer. If it fee's up, you'll need to get some machine oil in like 3 in 1, hydraulic oil even 10w30 or the like
 
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