2003 Crownline oil reservoir fitting

Jamz33

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The oil reservoir fitting nipple has broke. There is enough left of the nipple that we could get a hose on it but it I don’t know how confident I am about it staying on there and worried about it coming off while it’s in the water. My question is I can’t even see the fitting from inside the boat. It looks like the motor will have to be pulled. Does this sound right? Another thing. What are the downsides to completely disabling this system and blocking all ways to where water can not enter the drive or the boat?
 

alldodge

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The motor has to come out to replace. Ever since Merc went to the cheap plastic fitting there have been several that have broken. Part number

22-861150T02​


The cheap one cost around $20, the upgraded brass one if you can find it is around $75

The drive lube monitor can be blocked off but I wouldn't do that. The monitor parts are cheap, the drive is expensive
 

Jamz33

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I understand. I know the drive would have to manually checked instead of being able to check the reservoir or go off the low oil alarm. But is there anything that would be hurt from me blocking it off? I just put the motor in this boat and it was a pain to say the least. The engine sits back in a hole and hard to work on. If I ever had to remove it again I would fix the reservoir correctly. I have seen where ppl have take the steering rack and stuff loose and I would be willing to try that but didn’t want to if I still couldn’t get to it.

This just seems like a really poor design.
 

Jamz33

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I have done that. Can I block off that hole where the dribbler valve was so no water can get in the drive and leave it like that for now without it hurting anything?
 

Scott06

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I have done that. Can I block off that hole where the dribbler valve was so no water can get in the drive and leave it like that for now without it hurting anything?
it looks like that end of the hose goes into a pipe thread x barbed fitting so no reason a pipe plug cant go in there. could also put a vacuum cap over the barb if its still in the bellhousing.
 

Jamz33

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Plugging off the line to the bell housing should be all I need to do correct? Since the transom fitting nipple is broke there is no way I can plug it from the outside. And water shouldn’t leak back through as long as the body of the fitting is intact I believe. Any other advice? Thanks.
 

alldodge

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Plugging off the line to the bell housing should be all I need to do correct? Since the transom fitting nipple is broke there is no way I can plug it from the outside. And water shouldn’t leak back through as long as the body of the fitting is intact I believe. Any other advice? Thanks.
Water will leak back thru the fitting when boat is stopped and sitting, when running no

Could cut outside tube in middle and plug both ends to stop both directions.
There is always a but.... doing this will in most cases keep water from entering the boat, but when the drive heats up (heat expands and build pressure) gear lube expands and will most likely blow the plug out the drive side
 

Jamz33

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Water will leak back thru the fitting when boat is stopped and sitting, when running no

Could cut outside tube in middle and plug both ends to stop both directions.
There is always a but.... doing this will in most cases keep water from entering the boat, but when the drive heats up (heat expands and build pressure) gear lube expands and will most likely blow the plug out the drive side
So the only way the drive vents is thru the reservoir hose?
 

Jamz33

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So the only way the drive vents is thru the reservoir hose? It shouldn’t build up too much pressure if the oil level is correct. Right? Just thinking about the older outdrives that never had a reservoir.
 

alldodge

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So the only way the drive vents is thru the reservoir hose?
Yes/No
The drive has a one way valve in the top of the lube bottle. It lets pressure out but not in (at least that what Merc says). Yes pressure does build, how much has not been analyzed by anyone that I know of

The valve on the drive side is a valve that should stay closed when the drive is removed, but I've had several drives and not all of them will stay completely closed and do leak.

Now if you do not remove the other 1/2 of the valve from the bell housing than you have the small rubber hose to plug.

You can remove both halves of the fitting and plug the drive side, as to how I don't know maybe someone else does.
 

Jamz33

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I have removed the dribbler valve from the bell housing and will be plugging that hole. I have taken a bell housing gasket and flipped it to where the hole where the dribbler valve was will now be covered. So the hole will be water tight. No water should leak back through the transom because the hose is connected on the inside and the reservoir is higher than the water level.

So if the drive has the correct oil level, pressure build up shouldn’t be an issue.

I’m just trying to figure out if everything will operate correctly without the reservoir.
 

Bondo

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I have removed the dribbler valve from the bell housing and will be plugging that hole. I have taken a bell housing gasket and flipped it to where the hole where the dribbler valve was will now be covered. So the hole will be water tight. No water should leak back through the transom because the hose is connected on the inside and the reservoir is higher than the water level.

So if the drive has the correct oil level, pressure build up shouldn’t be an issue.

I’m just trying to figure out if everything will operate correctly without the reservoir.
Ayuh,...... Just as with the older drives, you fill it to the bottom of the top plug, which leaves an air space at the top, for thermal expansion,....
 

Scott06

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I have removed the dribbler valve from the bell housing and will be plugging that hole. I have taken a bell housing gasket and flipped it to where the hole where the dribbler valve was will now be covered. So the hole will be water tight. No water should leak back through the transom because the hose is connected on the inside and the reservoir is higher than the water level.

So if the drive has the correct oil level, pressure build up shouldn’t be an issue.

I’m just trying to figure out if everything will operate correctly without the reservoir.
will be no issue, some of the Gen 2s did not have the revesior.

when I had my gen 1 years ago I would frequently check the level (upper vent) and the drain (bottom) for evidence of moisture. Just a couple times a season.

Biggest issue you can run into with this set up is the drive input shaft seal leaks oil that fills the bellows , which you wont see until the bellows fill and its spills into the bilge. By then you may lose the upper gearset and bearings.

there is absolutely nothing wrong with doing it this way, you just dont have the level of protection the reservoir gives you and no alarm for low level. Likely you will need to disconnect the level sensor on the bottle as if empty the alarm should go off.
 

Bt Doctur

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For anyone else with these issues I an redeveloping the drive res system that
that merc offered and is no longer available Uses a different fitting, a trim pump hose and the same res container.
 

Scott06

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For anyone else with these issues I an redeveloping the drive res system that
that merc offered and is no longer available Uses a different fitting, a trim pump hose and the same res container.
is that the exterior one that plugs into the upper vent screw?
 

Fun Times

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Part number

22-861150T02​

The cheap one cost around $20, the upgraded brass one if you can find it is around $75
Saw that too.. guess if someone wants the brass fitting you have to now reach out to either Eric Bruns as he recently said he make a replacement that won’t break again. $75.00 plus shipping on Facebook in a Merc post then in a second post said his company makes them.
For a short time both Michigan Motorz and Amazon was selling them but have since stopped selling them since I saw that FB post as if you now click their past showing links, they go elsewhere or say not in stock.
Also one other guy was making a Stainless steel version that seemed nice over on Off Shore Only forums.


IMG_3570.png
 

Stinnett21

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My 1993 A1 G2 had a cap with a hole and dipstick. This was before the lube monitor system came along.
 
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