2004 4 hp, screwed!

[Pussiwillow]

Well today I managed to get a 2004 merc 4 hp four stroke that has been sunk, for free, but I have no idea how long when pulling cover it looks very nice and clean, some sand particles but non the less clean carb clean but I pulled the valve cover for kicks, and it was full of mud, lots of sandy oil in the head, bit pulling the dip stick no signs of sand, but milky oil, one inner bolt had what looked like rust, but wiped right off completely no effort, the motor will not turn freely but looking in the spark plug hole the cylinder looks good and the piston looks good, I have not gotten a wrench on the flywheel to try my luck but if I flush the motor repeatedly with solvent and then refill with clean oil, get it fired if I can, and flush with new oil repeatedly after short runs what's my luck of lucking out on this? Do these 4 strokes still use needle bearings? And I didnt see an oil filter, does this motor not have one? Thanks!

 

[Texasmark]

Re: 2004 4 hp, screwed!

Don't know about needle bearings. I would think not. To me needle/roller bearings are used in 2 strokes due to the light oiling they get as compared to a crankcase type continuous bath, but I don't know. What's the reason for your question?

If it had an oil filter I'd think it would be plainly visible but don't know that either.

Sounds like you are on the right track to fixing her up. Would use a solvent with some oiling capability....Marvel Mystery Oil is an oily solvent I have used before to wash out moving parts.

Milky oil is obviously water in the oil and one would surely expect that having been submerged. I think I would drain the crankcase and flush with some marvel. Being an outboard, you can rotate the engine in all directions to get a thorough wash out of the crankcase and contents. Then refill with a light oil like Mobil 1's 0W -20 and rotate the overall engine some more.

I have freed stuck farm tractor engines and I usually pour the oily solvent in the plug holes and let it sit for a couple of days. I then start rocking the flywheel applying slight pressure and over time I can rock back and forth greater distances, continuing to add solvent every time I gain some ground, and finally get them to break loose....if not too far gone.

There again, being an outboard you can rotate the engine to get good oil coverage of the crankcase parts as you are breaking it loose which surely will help you get a successful restoration.

My 2c,

Mark

 

[NetDoc]

Re: 2004 4 hp, screwed!

Marvel mystery oil or trans fluid both work great. You might need to do some dis-assembly if that doesn't do it for you. Actually, I would be doing that first, but I have no fear of mechanical thangs.

 

[Pussiwillow]

Thanks guys I have tranny fluid by the gallons haha I'll flush what I can but I think I'm gonna pull the motor out of the cowl and remove the head, I'm gonna flush the head very well and clean it up and hopefully have enough area to flush the crank case really well but I'm worried about that fine sand on the bearing surfaces, so I may completely tear down and be sure thanks guys I just wanted some hope to keep my motivated

 

[Star]

Re: 2004 4 hp, screwed!

Dear Puss,
I am not as optimistic as the other responders!!!! If you had sandy gunk in the valve cover then you have it every. With all the knooks and crannies the oil reservoir has you won't be able to flush it all out. Disasembly is the only way unless you just want to throw it a way.

 

[Pussiwillow]

That's what I think my only option is i want to use this motor so I'm gonna pull everything solvent clean it all, put it in oil as I clean them all new gaskets if the piston, rings and cylinder look great I'll leave those be and re assemble otherwise hone and re ring, the valves and springs are working smoothly so that's good, in pulling the head later and starting from there and see why the piston is froze up

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: 2004 4 hp, screwed!

No needle bearings in the 4 .Always include a serial# model# when asking questions.That way were sure what were working on.
Profile??

 

[Pussiwillow]

The only number I see is on a barcode sticker on the block of the motor but here's some pics

 

[Pussiwillow]

I drained all the oil, I removed the head bolts removed the carb and unbolted the exhaust but the head won't budge I don't want to pry it or anything so I'm gonna put my compression gauge adapter on the plug hole and hook it to my compressor and pump 120 psi and see if it pops the head safely, but as of now everything is drained, solvent rinsed and drained, filled with oil, and half a quart of marvels mystery oil to help break gunk down, I filled the cylinder up marvels as well to hopefully help free the piston, that's where I'm at now... Can't wait to get the ball rolling, the lower unit in gear and spinning the prop without motor on it is stiff and squeaks bad, in neutral it spins fine no squeak, the squeak comes from the prop area, I can't get the drain loose but the fill/vent popped off with force and was full of oil and doesn't appear to have water in it, the oil was almost a clear color tho but very oily greasy feel so I don't know all I know is it is full right up to the plug so I know the inner seals are ok so far as i see no leaks or wetness around seals and what not and hopefully the inner parts are a ok as lower units suck to rebuild. That's all I got so far