Re: 2004 bayliner Mercruiser 3.0l pings above 3800 with backfire
I am having the same problem on my merc 3.0, and have replaced all ignition stuff (coil, point, cap, rotor), retimed, etc. I think I have it narrowed to a fuel problem as many have mentioned here. Some testing I did to verify this - you may want to try as well:
1. Eliminate bad fuel, fuel tank, pickup, checkvalve, 'sock filter', by running a clear hose from an external gas can to the input side of the filter.
2. Eliminate fuel pump, by running a hose durectly to the carb, and holding it high in the air, attached to a funnel - this guarantees gas gets to the needle valve - there is no pressure needed beyond that needed to ensure gas gets to the needle valve. When you do this make sure the input side of the fuel pump is still disconnected from step 1.
3. Run a compression test - Autozone will let you use their compression tester for free - it's very easy to do. This eliminates bad valvetrain, pistons, rings. You should get over 100psi without adding oil.
4. Back to the fuel - try this experiment - put some gas in a water bottle, and poke a small hole in the top. run the engine up to the RPM where it starts popping and squirt a stream of gas into the carb. Try to keep the same RPM, and even go higher, and see if the popping goes away - I did this, and it eliminated the popping in my engine.
I tried all of the above (and more - replaced carb, new manifold, new heads last year), and still can't find the root cause. If you have the same results, I think it's safe to say we have the same problem. If not, hopefully this gives you more ideas. Good luck!
I am having the same problem on my merc 3.0, and have replaced all ignition stuff (coil, point, cap, rotor), retimed, etc. I think I have it narrowed to a fuel problem as many have mentioned here. Some testing I did to verify this - you may want to try as well:
1. Eliminate bad fuel, fuel tank, pickup, checkvalve, 'sock filter', by running a clear hose from an external gas can to the input side of the filter.
2. Eliminate fuel pump, by running a hose durectly to the carb, and holding it high in the air, attached to a funnel - this guarantees gas gets to the needle valve - there is no pressure needed beyond that needed to ensure gas gets to the needle valve. When you do this make sure the input side of the fuel pump is still disconnected from step 1.
3. Run a compression test - Autozone will let you use their compression tester for free - it's very easy to do. This eliminates bad valvetrain, pistons, rings. You should get over 100psi without adding oil.
4. Back to the fuel - try this experiment - put some gas in a water bottle, and poke a small hole in the top. run the engine up to the RPM where it starts popping and squirt a stream of gas into the carb. Try to keep the same RPM, and even go higher, and see if the popping goes away - I did this, and it eliminated the popping in my engine.
I tried all of the above (and more - replaced carb, new manifold, new heads last year), and still can't find the root cause. If you have the same results, I think it's safe to say we have the same problem. If not, hopefully this gives you more ideas. Good luck!