2005 Yamaha 70B running rich

FishMan001

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Joined
May 2, 2021
Messages
26
Hi,
Firstly, sorry for the long post !!!
About 6 months ago I bought a 2004 Yamaha 70B outboard (same as the 50G and 60F) from a guy who had owned it from new.
It had been sat in his shed for over a year because it was "unreliable" - It didn't start very easily and stopped giving enough power.
The tacho shows the hours as 316 (and is genuine).

My problem !
On the boat and in the water, it starts easily and appears to idle well (800RPM). It will rev to 5000+ RPM in neutral. When I take it out on the sea, it will slowly get to 3000 RPM (5 secs), and that's it. Once, it bust into life and went upto about 5000, but then within a minute, it was back to 3000. When it's running at 3000, it seems "lazy" and will vary from 2800-3100 over the course of about 5 seconds, and sounds as if it's running on 2 cylinders.
I am using fresh petrol, no ethonol or additives.
I took off the air box, and the carb throttles were all fully open when running.
Pulling off each spark plug top causes a similar reduction in revs for each one.
Blocking each carb intake causes a similar drop in RPM for each one.
I stopped and pulled out the plugs, and they were all black and wet. So I assumed fuel/carb problems.
I thought it might be the Primestart, so at a fast idle, I switched the red emergency lever to "ON" to see if the fuel was coming from there, and it stalled.
I pulled apart the emergency start (yellow wire) connector under the CDI, and the revs increased.
I pulled the carbs off again, cleaned them out again (they were spotless), and checked the float height (spot on 14mm for all of them).

The things I have done so far are:
All fuel lines blown through with carb cleaner
Air box cleaned (and clear)
Cowling hood air intake cleaned (and clear)
New plugs
New fuel filter
New fuel pump
New thermostat
Drained 2 stroke oil reservoir, cleaned and refilled
Primed the oil lines
Checked oil pump linkage
Stripped the carbs, cleaned with carb cleaner and blew out jets
New needle valves and holders
Set idle screws to just over 1 turn out
Adjusted carb linkages and stops
Pulled reed valves - looked clean and couldn't see any light through them
Adjusted CDI linkages to spec
Adjusted timing to 7' ATDC for idle, and 20' BTDC for full throttle, with timing light
Checked the coils primary and secondary resistances were in spec
Pulled apart all electrical connections (including earths), cleaned and put back
Checked oil and temp sensors for correct operation and alarm

As all 3 plugs are black and wet, I assume it must be something common to all cylinders, but I am now at a loss.

Please can anyone give me either any more tests to try, or, if you've had similar problems, what the problem may be.

Thanks for any help !
Paul
 

99yam40

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Sep 7, 2008
Messages
9,127
check that the prime start heater unit extends the needle when 12 v is put on it for s few minuets which should close off the extra fuel needed only during cold start

and make sure the fuel pump diaphragm and prime start diaphragm are not leaking fuel into the crank case causing too rich of a condition.
but only the prime start needle not closing off would affect all 3 cylinders
 

FishMan001

Cadet
Joined
May 2, 2021
Messages
26
Thanks for that. I pulled the Primestart apart to clean it when I did the carbs, and the diaphragm was perfect, however, I didn't check the working of the needle.
I can't get to the boat for a few days, but I will check that as soon as I get to it.
Cheers,
Paul
 

FishMan001

Cadet
Joined
May 2, 2021
Messages
26
I've now been down to the boat and pulled the Primestart. When hooked up to 12v, it takes about 1.5 mins to fully extend, so I would call that good-to-go.
However, I also decided to pull the diaphragm and manual lever out again to have a look, as I was also told that the little 'O' ring on the back of the valve block might be a problem.
A close inspection showed that not only was it flat, but it also had a split in it.
As I couldn't find one locally, I have put an order in for a new one.
I'll let you know how it goes when I get, and fit it.

Cheers,
Paul
 

FishMan001

Cadet
Joined
May 2, 2021
Messages
26
One step forward - One step back.
I've now replaced the 'O' ring, (and diaphragm & gaskets) and it still isn't right !
So, after letting it run at a fast idle for 5-6 mins, I pulled the Primestart assembly, and the needle hadn't moved! Also, according to google/youtube, the Primestart housing should be almost too hot to touch. It was cold.
What I have found out is, that after I start the engine, if I switch the red emergency switch to off, the engine runs perfectly, and I can get full revs out of it under load.
I put the Primestart on the battery again, and the needle comes out as it is supposed to, so it seems that I have a problem with voltage getting to the Primestart assembly.
Due to the rain and high winds, I've had to leave it for a bit and do some more research (the boat is about 25 mins away from home).
To be continued.....

Cheers,
Paul
 

99yam40

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Sep 7, 2008
Messages
9,127
should get the voltage from the lighting coil while motor is running. if the battery being charged while motor is running?
trace wires , measure voltage .
make sure the ground has a good connection
 

FishMan001

Cadet
Joined
May 2, 2021
Messages
26
I haven't checked the voltages yet - I'm still looking for the specs on that.
I don't know if the battery is being charged while the motor is running as I have a solar charger in place, so the battery is always charged.
I know the wire from the Primestart to the connector is OK, as that is the one I put on the battery to check if the needle is working.
Earth is good (as are all the connectors) as they were all cleaned and checked, and everything else on, and off, the engine works.
 

99yam40

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Sep 7, 2008
Messages
9,127
disconnect the solar charger,
run the lights or t&t for a little bit and then measure the battery voltage.
then start the motor and see what the battery voltage reads while the motor is running, if it is not higher than before you have problem with the system charging system
 

boscoe99

Commander
Joined
Aug 22, 2013
Messages
2,058
I haven't checked the voltages yet - I'm still looking for the specs on that.
I don't know if the battery is being charged while the motor is running as I have a solar charger in place, so the battery is always charged.
I know the wire from the Primestart to the connector is OK, as that is the one I put on the battery to check if the needle is working.
Earth is good (as are all the connectors) as they were all cleaned and checked, and everything else on, and off, the engine works.
Specifications will be in your Yamaha service manual.

Since the voltage to the Primestart come from the lighting coil, it might stand to reason that the specifications for the lighting coil will be one and the same as for the Primestart device.
 

FishMan001

Cadet
Joined
May 2, 2021
Messages
26
Specifications will be in your Yamaha service manual.

Since the voltage to the Primestart come from the lighting coil, it might stand to reason that the specifications for the lighting coil will be one and the same as for the Primestart device.
I've found the specs for the lighting coil voltages and resistances, and for the Prime Start resistance, and now have a plan of attack.
When I get back down to the boat, I shall be checking them all out to see what I can find.

Cheers,
Paul
 

FishMan001

Cadet
Joined
May 2, 2021
Messages
26
YAY ! Its Fixed....
I'll put a quick description here so that anyone else with similar problems might be able to find it with a search, or Google.

Opened her up, took off the splash guard near the coils and separated the wires. Started her up and set the idle to about 1500rpm. Checked for some voltage across the blue/blue-white wires and all OK.
Moved to the Primestart and stuck a pin through the blue cable at the Primestart and checked for a voltage there. All OK - wait a minute, no it's not, yes it is.....
To cut a long story short (it took me an hour of checking and messing around). The wires come out of the coils under the flywheel, behind the regulator, then into the bullet connectors to split to the various places. When I disconnected the connectors, and pulled the wires out to get better access for checking, I found one of the wires was badly chafed and showing the conductor. It was where it went behind the regulator, and must have been rubbing away due to the vibrations (probably since new!).
I pulled the wire out and cut it, stripped back, slid over a couple of heat-shrink tubes, soldered the wires together and shrunk the tubes over the join. Just to make sure it wouldn't happen again, I wrapped some tape over the join and fed it back behind the regulator and connected everything back up.
I started her up and went out for a spin round the bay for about an hour. She performed fine, and happily went upto 5000rpm (enough for me - it was a bit choppy!) When I came back, I checked the plugs and they were dry and brown.
I'll get some new plugs and change them next time I'm on the boat.
Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions!

Paul
 
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