2006 Chaparral/ Volvo Penta 5.0 GLE wire schematic needed

deer9620

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 4, 2012
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32
I will try my best to explain this. I have 06 Chaparral with a 5.0 GLE Volvo Penta engine. I went to start engine and boat would fire but not start. I checked voltage at electric fuel pump, I checked for fuel coming from pump. All tested ok. Last year my four year old pulled out the safety lanyard on the throttle without me knowing and boat obviously would not start. So I learned from that and I checked and by passed my safety switch this time to eliminate that. The point I am trying to make is this time boat is acting just like it did with lanyard pulled. Fires then cuts off. So I tried to start engine with switch bypassed and same results. Engine will start and stay running when held in start position. Now the technical stuff. I checked ignition switch with voltmeter, the run side of switch is grounded when off and in the on position. I checked it today with test light, when ignition switch is off or in the on position it is grounded. When however it is in the RUN position it has a ground on it, but it is also hot. I then checked the two wires that go to coil at the coil. Purple wire was grounded, grey wire was not. I then switched alligator clip on test light to check grey wire to see if it was grounded and from my memory it was. I went back to check purple wire again, and now it was HOT=12 volts. IM NOT GOING CRAZY IT WAS GROUNDED NOW IT HAS 12 VOLTS. From what I have been told, safety switches will ground out coil circuit to kill spark.I then tried to start engine and it now runs. I shut off engine and checked ignition switch again, Run position ground is gone, its only hot like its supposed to be. Off position wire is grounded. I didnt fix anything and dont want to be broke down on the water. What can i replace as a precaution to avoid this? for example is oil pressure sensor tied to this circuit? I really need a wiring schematic. Thanks
 

wrench 3

Commander
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Aug 12, 2012
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2,108
If the input to the ignition switch stayed the same and the output changed on the same setting, some thing is wrong in the switch.
 

deer9620

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 4, 2012
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32
The only thing that changed was the slight ground disappeared from the run side of switch.
 

wrench 3

Commander
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Aug 12, 2012
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The only thing that changed was the slight ground disappeared from the run side of switch.

If this was with the switch in the run position, then there was no voltage coming through the switch.
 

deer9620

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 4, 2012
Messages
32
Yes, I confirmed that it was in the run position. Voltage present coming from the switch.
 

wrench 3

Commander
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Aug 12, 2012
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I'm a little confused with your test procedure. How can you get 12V and ground from the same terminal at the same time?
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,055
If you are checking the switch with it installed and the battery on, you should have battery voltage between the B terminal and a ground. If you turn the key to the ignition on position, then you should have battery voltage between the I terminal and a ground. Lastly if you turn it to start you should have battery voltage between the S terminal and a ground.
With the switch disconnected, you test it using the continuity tester on the meter. Off, no continuity between any of the terminals. Ignition on, continuity between B and I. No continuity between S and the other terminals. Turn to start, then there should be continuity between B and I and B and S.
 
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