2006 FICHT evinrude 250 HP

Jhayes780

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Ok took my boat out. Started going pretty good then didn’t want to go into reverse unless I went pretty high rpm. Otherwise it sounded like a car trying to get into gear.
Kept going and then got out into the channel. After half throttle it’d appear to be working fine then when increasing rpm check engine light comes on and it would shut off? Any ideas?
 

Crosbyman

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the only way to know is to use EV diagnostics and find out what fault code is shutting it down . Check the LEDs on the EMM it may tell you the area of concern . see manual


certain it is a FICHT and not an ETEC in 2006 ?? post mdl #

ETECs replaced FICHT around 2004-2005
do you have the service book ??

Engine "shut down" is serious see possible codes/causes
  • code 29 EMM temp over range (poor cooling flow... check impeller/obstructions
  • code 31 ENG temp >248 F.... check impeller and engine cooling flows
  • code 33 Excessive no oil alarms (code 38s) for >5 hrs cod 34 open circuit on oil pump >5 sec.
  • code 57 HIgh RPMs with low TPS voltage DO NOT RESTART ENGINE UNTIL TPS ISSUE RESOLVED
etc...
see manual fault code listing
 
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Jhayes780

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Messages
150
the only way to know is to use EV diagnostics and find out what fault code is shutting it down . Check the LEDs on the EMM it may tell you the area of concern . see manual


certain it is a FICHT and not an ETEC in 2006 ?? post mdl #

ETECs replaced FICHT around 2004-2005
do you have the service book ??

Engine "shut down" is serious see possible codes/causes
  • code 29 EMM temp over range (poor cooling flow... check impeller/obstructions
  • code 31 ENG temp >248 F.... check impeller and engine cooling flows
  • code 33 Excessive no oil alarms (code 38s) for >5 hrs cod 34 open circuit on oil pump >5 sec.
  • code 57 HIgh RPMs with low TPS voltage DO NOT RESTART ENGINE UNTIL TPS ISSUE RESOLVED
etc...
see manual fault code listing
It’s def a ficht. Yeah I have no ability to pull those codes but was able to “limp home at low rpm. The engine always turned back on and stayed on at low rpm
 

Crosbyman

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post engine model on the plate
can't do much other than suggest you acquire EV diag. which works on FICHT EMM,s

EV diag is available on Amazonor possibly IBOATS runs on windows 10 laptop.
they always suggest to run the laptop on it's own battery (no AC connections)

if it is a FICHT here is the book . As I understand it some code MUST be reset.

problem can be fuel restriction or mecanical failures (inj) which the EMM will not always identify with fault codes. (ex: a plugged up injector).
1706795487512.png
see link 2002-2006 on FICHT and ETEC.... see section 3-17

and yes your are correect FICHT were made...till 2006 the 250hp till 2005
1706793726065.png
 
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Jhayes780

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 15, 2022
Messages
150
post engine model on the plate
can't do much other than suggest you acquire EV diag. which works on FICHT EMM,s

EV diag is available on Amazonor possibly IBOATS runs on windows 10 laptop.
they always suggest to run the laptop on it's own battery (no AC connections)

if it is a FICHT here is the book . As I understand it some code MUST be reset.

problem can be fuel restriction or mecanical failures (inj) which the EMM will not always identify with fault codes. (ex: a plugged up injector).
View attachment 393997
see link 2002-2006 on FICHT and ETEC.... see section 3-17

and yes your are correect FICHT were made...till 2006 the 250hp till 2005
View attachment 393996
Ya idk what to tell you the cover says FICHT as well as 2006 and it’s a 250. I’ll probably take it to the shop to get the codes read will post the findings
 

Crosbyman

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Messages
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what is on the ID plate ?? that is the only way to know.

check service prices from the dealer & if you do go dealer.... get a PDF dump for your files .

you may want to invest in EV DIAG. for the future needs .and as a first step before going dealer service. may save you tons of money on things you can work out on your own.


EV diag. with FDTI chips that connect into a laptop's USP ports are recommended

not that hard to load the SW and figure out if you have kids :)

motor may have been sold in 2006 doesn't mean it was manuf. in 2006 .

there is way to read the faults with blinking LED,s on the syst. check tach. see sect 3.17
you may be stuck in slow mode for a simple reason... see code listing

Get familiar with the manual.
 
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Jhayes780

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Well, another issue anyone know where I can get a replacement key
 

racerone

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38,438
Most BRP / Evinrude dealers can help you get a key.----Try----evinrudeparts.ca----See if they can help you and mail one out to you.
 

Jhayes780

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Here’s a video of it sparking any ideas what to do from here? And could this be what’s making it enter slow mode
 

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Jhayes780

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Messages
150
what is on the ID plate ?? that is the only way to know.

check service prices from the dealer & if you do go dealer.... get a PDF dump for your files .

you may want to invest in EV DIAG. for the future needs .and as a first step before going dealer service. may save you tons of money on things you can work out on your own.


EV diag. with FDTI chips that connect into a laptop's USP ports are recommended

not that hard to load the SW and figure out if you have kids :)

motor may have been sold in 2006 doesn't mean it was manuf. in 2006 .

there is way to read the faults with blinking LED,s on the syst. check tach. see sect 3.17
you may be stuck in slow mode for a simple reason... see code listing

Get familiar with the manual.
That’s the thing it passes the system check then when I go past half throttle it beeps and turns off
 

Crosbyman

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electricity takes the least resistance patch ...always.... check wires clean all surfaces ... try die electric grease in the boots and connectors

going into safe mode in a decision based on sensors detected problems ...you need to get EV diagnostics on a laptop to read the codes just like on a car. EV diag runs on windows laptops ( no acplugs on the laptop) and cost about $100 (Basic sw and cable FDTI chip ver 5.9)

see write up
 

Jhayes780

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Got it on order. Won’t be here till Friday was just wondering if that could do it
 

Crosbyman

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did you download the book ??? sect. 3.89 . Carefully clean any traces of dirt, debris or corrosion from the mating surfaces of the coil and powerhead. This is especially important to ensure · proper electrical contact for the ground strap. 7. Position the ignition coil to the powerhead with the washers and ground strap(s) in the order noted during removal. Make sure the ground strap has good electrical contact with the powerhead. (This can be quickly checked using an ohmmeter if there is any concern). 8. Tighten the retaining bolts/screws to 60-84 inch lbs. (6.8-9.E-Nm). 9. Apply a light coating electrical grease or other suitable dielectric grease to the primary and secondary terminals, then reconnect the wiring as noted during removal.


if you active LEDs on the EMM while in SAFE could suggest a few areas to look into.
not certain FICHT has LEDS but check on the side. IF not see attached ..
1708476251026.png

as to sparking well your sparkplugs are suppose to offer the best jumping point to ground .. if not look for another path of lower resistance to ground or....possible defective plug wires offereing to much resiatnce themselves. Do a resistance test on the HV coil secondaries as measred from the boot sprincg clip and engine frame ground. Ohms resistance should be approx. same for all coil scondaries.
 
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Jhayes780

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I actually don’t have any visible lights on the emm that I can see. Do I need to remove the cover? Ultimately going to wait for the diagnostic. Now it starts for a second and shuts off. So will keep everyone posted. Sorry this post is such a $hit $how
 

Crosbyman

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don't you have a syst check display shown above

ON ETEC the LEDs are on the side and readable but they may be absent on a FICHT emm

with EV diag you will be able to read fault codes. see manual for shut down reasons

shut downs on start up can be temperature issues but your engine never got hot...so


other causes...EMM senses RPMs but the Throttle position sensor generates an ananomaly with TPS voltage value. EMM thinks the throttle TPS is defective TPS has avariable voltage value proprotionnal to the throttle plate openning % and if the EMM does not like what it senses it shuts down. other reasons listed in the manual bad fuel bad B+ etc...
start with fix the spark flash over on the plugs !!
EV diag will test you what it sees wrong ...the fix will have to be done by you...or a shop.

sect. 3.19
1708486124761.png
 
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Crosbyman

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faztbullet....thanks for confirming.


Jhayes..... btw read back comments..... so you have the syst. check display

what if any LEDs come on when it dies???
 

Jhayes780

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faztbullet....thanks for confirming.


Jhayes..... btw read back comments..... so you have the syst. check display

what if any LEDs come on when it dies???
The only LEDs I have are the ones on the steering wheel I.e. check engine check oil etc. it turns on. Runs through system check all lights go off indicating it’s good. I start it now and then it runs for a second and shuts off. The key is still in the on position and it’s like it reset, the lights come on and it runs through the start up system check. Rinse and repeat.
 

Crosbyman

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Can't do much from here any chance you are momentarily loosing B+ due to some poor connection or vibrations .....be it solenoid B+ post which feeds the PDP via (D) then the 10 amp fuse (the main system fuse which powers-up everything including your EMM ! ) .

have you check everything battery post wise cable wise etc...

a strong charged battery to properly spin the engine and quickly generate the 40 Volts needed by several components (injectors... etc... see diagrams )

your engine distributes power on via the PDD power dist. panel known to have cold solder joints on the B+ input. (D wire) (check/clean all fuses and sockets)

why don't you hook up a VOM on the PDP output to the EMM to see if engine vibrations doesn't kill the B+ causing an EMM reset observed on your display.

Either you are loosing power (B+ or system generated 40v or weak 40v) to cause a shut-down or some sensor causes the shut- down..

do the easy stuff first ( connections. PDP check.. fuses chaffed wires ?? battery power /posts )


1708532708938.png
 
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Jhayes780

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It needs a new EMM. Is it worth it? Will I continue to have these issues? Or should I stop dumping money into it now.
 
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