2007 9.9hp 4-stroke Johnson kicker stalling...??

[hertel11]

I have a 2007 Johnson 9.9hp 4stroke outboard motor that is causing me some problems. I took it out last night and could not get it started for the longest time except for a few sputters here and there. Finally I got it started and it ran well enough to get me across the lake (about 10 min at full throttle) and then stalled out. After that it would start easily but die out after about 5-10sec or as soon as I tried to give it any gas at all. I will mention that the ball on the fuel line doesn't seem to get or stay hard all the time but its the same fuel line for a 40hp Johnson that runs great. I'm not very mechanical but I'm hoping there is an easy solution to this problem as I fish quite a few reservoirs with 10hp restrictions. I bought this boat about a month ago and the 9.9hp carb was "boiled" by the marine I bought it from the same day I bought it. Someone mentioned it could be an inline fuel filter or something but I'm not sure. Any help or suggestions in as much detail as possible would be greatly appreciated because as I mentioned I'm really not very mechanically inclined. Thanks. Also there is a knob/dial right below the ignition that I haven't really touched much but I'm not sure what it is for?

 

[hertel11]

Still looking for some insight on this issue. New hose and ball came in mail and I installed it yesterday but have yet to try to run the motor again. Fuel filter looked to be clean. Could it be fuel pump?

 

[Consigliere]

Start with the fuel pump, it is the easiest to deal with. Take apart and look for crap in it.

After that - if you are sure it is a gas problem - the carb would be next. Not sure what a "boiled" carb is but doesn't sound like a legit fix. They need to be taken apart fully and cleaned.

One alternative to a carb rebuild is try using an additive system to clean everything out - SeaFoam. Google SeaFoam dunk method. It may help but usually mechanic in a bottle not the final solution.

 

[oldboat1]

Your motor is too new for me, but will note there is a fuel filter for your pump (plastic in-line), and should be easy for you to replace. Additionally, there is a diaphragm and gasket (a repair kit) for the pump, and looks to be pretty easy to replace.

Not clear it's the pump, though, from your description. Starting is normally from the prime provided by the hand pump in the tank line. The standard fuel pump test when having operating problems (stalling or stuttering) is to pump it manually and see if the engine revives -- would indicate a problem with the pump. The hand pump/bulb doesn't necessarily stay rock hard, but shouldn't collapse (would indicate a venting problem on the tank side). BTW, is there a tank vent, and is it open? Might unscrew the cap a little.

I would check the operating temperature (should not be too hot to touch up on the head). And... ignition or compression issues/testing (good idea to get a spark tester for your tool box, and check for strong spark).

 

[hertel11]

I checked in-line fuel filter and it looks to be squeaky clean. I'm not sure how soft the bulb has to be before its considered collapsed but my old one never really felt like it ever got more than half way full (still ran a 40hp like a dream though). The new one gets pretty hard (almost rock solid) but I haven't been able to run motor with it yet, hoping that was the issue. If not, where do I order the diaphragm and gasket repair kit for the pump. I've been looking but haven't been able to really find anything that says my hp and year yet.

 

[hertel11]

Also, the tank is built in and the vent seems to be free of blockage. Compression test when I bought it early March checked out good like 115 and 120. Have only ran this motor a few times, the first time I had trouble getting it started but ran great after that. The most recent time I had even more trouble getting it started, ran for 10 min, then would start easy but stall within seconds.

 

[oldboat1]

Find oem parts number first, then go shopping: http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=e0b3d3d4-2845-4c2f-a982-91625c1bb7b7 Plug in the parts number(s) here at iBoats (parts/accessories), or try your year and hp to locate parts diagrams. There are also manuals here: http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/library.html
I think I would review starting procedure first (e.g., choking/priming to start) -- operators manual kind of stuff.

 

[oldboat1]

BTW -- might check for water in that built-in tank. Pull up a sample from the bottom of the tank, and let it settle out in a glass container.

 

[hertel11]

Your motor is too new for me, but will note there is a fuel filter for your pump (plastic in-line), and should be easy for you to replace. Additionally, there is a diaphragm and gasket (a repair kit) for the pump, and looks to be pretty easy to replace.

Not clear it's the pump, though, from your description. Starting is normally from the prime provided by the hand pump in the tank line. The standard fuel pump test when having operating problems (stalling or stuttering) is to pump it manually and see if the engine revives -- would indicate a problem with the pump. The hand pump/bulb doesn't necessarily stay rock hard, but shouldn't collapse (would indicate a venting problem on the tank side). BTW, is there a tank vent, and is it open? Might unscrew the cap a little.

I would check the operating temperature (should not be too hot to touch up on the head). And... ignition or compression issues/testing (good idea to get a spark tester for your tool box, and check for strong spark).

Cleaned carb and replaced spark plugs last night after the bulb and hose did not fix the issue. Also inline fuel filter is good and tank vent is fine, even tried with lid open just to make sure vent was not the problem. Bulb still seems to be going pretty soft after cranking engine a few times not sure if that is expected or not. I did notice that after multiple starts then stalls (maybe 15 to 20) the motor was very hot to touch and you indicated checking running temperature. What does this indicate and how do I solve it or is that normal after cranking it so many times? Also, if this if of interest when putting the carb back on my socket wrench touched something and caused a spark, the keys were not even in the ignition, not sure what was touched or if that could have been a normal occurrence or not. Pumping bulb manually did not revive engine at all while stalling so I'm leaning away from fuel pump as issue. Any more suggestions? Thank you

 

[oldboat1]

Replace the water pump in the lower unit. It's a DIY job, but If not your cup of tea, have a shop do it. It may be time to change out the thermostat as well. When you know the cooling system is working properly, proceed from there. (An infrared gun is a handle tool to have -- check temps on the top of the head.

 

[hertel11]

After carb cleaning and replacing spark plugs took boat out yesterday and the motor ran pretty well. Its rough at idle speed but does well with a little throttle. When running it in the bucket first I noticed a lot of silt getting in the water and around the edges of the trash can I had it in, is that normal or is there a concern? Also, the motors run but my primer bulb is still going soft, like fully collapsed after running. I just replaced the entire hose and bulb system from tank to motor so it's not that. Also the pickup hose screen was not blocked. The vent is free of obstruction and running with gas lid open doesn't help either. I've heard it could possibly be an anti-siphon valve or something but I'm not sure what that is or how to check it... I'd like to avoid pulling the tank if at all possible because its large and in a pretty hard to get at place under the deck.

 

[oldboat1]

Really think you need to replace the water pump impeller. Sand or silt can destroy it quickly. While the l.u. is off, I would run some water up the tube and let it exit normally. The sand or silt you are seeing may be something picked up in the lake, but could also be disintegrating mud dauber nests (very fine, powdery sand). If your fuel filter is clear, it's probably not the fuel system -- but would check that tank anyway for any kind of contamination (incl water). At a minimum, I would add some dry gas in case there is condensation from storage.

It wouldn't hurt to pull out the thermostat as well -- test it for operation, clean it up along with the t.stat housing. Make sure the bypass is open (water flow before the engine heats up and the t.stat opens).

 

[hertel11]

Ok. I will change water impeller if that seems to be an issue. Would that cause the primer bulb to collapse?

 

[hertel11]

Also, I will note that the silt is more like ash or some extra exhaust or something (possible excess carbon buildup being released?) and when I previously reported the engine was too hot to touch I was actually wrong the starting block was very hot but the actual engine manifold just past the carb was never very hot (warm but didn't burn me or anything, could leave my hand on it). I'm just wondering if the collapsed primer bulb could be causing me to lose power or idle rough. The idle is rough on my 9.9hp and I can only top out at 7mph with my 9.9hp. (17ft boat that weighs 715lbs with no gear or motors so probably closer to 1000lbs when actually in water) Does 7mph seem like a relatively normal speed for that weight and size?

 

[racerone]

7 MPH is all you can expect with a 9.9 HP.