Re: 2007 Crusader 5.7L Classic Won't Start
A bit of history...
I did run both engines "on the hard" prior to launch this past weekend with no issues. When I launched Monday the port engine fired up, then 30 to 60 seconds later died abruptly as if shut off with the switch indicating an electrical fault (ie. didn't sputter and get lumpy and then die). When I tried to re-start, all I got was the "fire" when cranking, classic symptom of an open ballast resistor. This is when I decided to replace the resistor because I had a spare on the boat and I did not have a meter to start troubleshooting. When the new resistor did not fix the problem I added the jumper so I could get off the launch dock and onto my mooring. The tide was running pretty good and I did not want to do the trip to the mooring on one engine.
Okay, I'm gonna make assumptions here, tell me if I'm wrong,,, It is an old boat, with the original wiring, & a new engine package. Not knowing the color of your wiring, I'm gonna make a generalization here.
The boat is old but the engines (twin engine boat) and harnesses are new, installed and wired by me (per the Crusader wiring diagram) and ran great with no probelms for 2 years. Also,the starboard engine does not have this problem. Please see wiring diagram on page 67 here: http://www.crusaderengines.com/manuals/L510019-07.pdf
If you're using the old original "I" ignition wire, it is a built in resistor wire! So, no external resistor is needed, it puts out less the 12volts, so just run it straight to the coil.\
No, there is no such wire in the harness. Again, the resistors came with the brand new engines and the starboard engine runs fine and is set up exacly the same, resistor included.
If you're uncomfortable with this idea, run a new wire from the ignition, Or any source?, (from anywhere?) that is controlled by the ignition switch to deliver a full 12volts to the ballast resistor on your engine.
If you want to test this, run a wire directly from your battery to feed the ballast resistor, then try to start it as usual,,, If it starts, & runs, then you must do one of the 2 things I mentioned (as a permanent fix!)
As earlier stated, I've already done this and the engine fires right up and runs great. I had to do this to get the boat off the dock and onto my mooring when I launched Monday.
Remember, the only way to shut the engine off when you do this test, is to pull the wire off the battery! That's why you need a full 12volt switched wire
Yup, got this too, had to pull the jumper or shut off engine batteries to kill the engine. I knew this wehn I added the jumper.
Disregard the "S" wire, as it is only powered when you hold the key to crank, otherwise it's dead, it is used only for starting, as you have found out
An easy way to confirm all this, is check the voltage on the "I", or "run" wire with the ignition on to see if it has a full 12volts or not? probably not, meaning it's a resistor wire
A bit of history...
I did run both engines "on the hard" prior to launch this past weekend with no issues. When I launched Monday the port engine fired up, then 30 to 60 seconds later died abruptly as if shut off with the switch indicating an electrical fault (ie. didn't sputter and get lumpy and then die). When I tried to re-start, all I got was the "fire" when cranking, classic symptom of an open ballast resistor. This is when I decided to replace the resistor because I had a spare on the boat and I did not have a meter to start troubleshooting. When the new resistor did not fix the problem I added the jumper so I could get off the launch dock and onto my mooring. The tide was running pretty good and I did not want to do the trip to the mooring on one engine.
