2007 Mercruiser 5.0 MPI, Crank No Start, Scan/Code Reader

[pfries3]

I have a 2007 Sea Ray 290 with 5.0 MPI's Starboard engine, SN: 1A048083, Family: 7M9XM05.0GME, Bravo 3 outdrives. I was cruising along nicely the other day and the starboard engine stalled fairly quickly as though I may have fouled the props, they where clean. attempted restart and it cranked strong but no start. Batteries test good, fuel pump primes, fuel is fresh, distributor cap/rotor new. I have not checked for spark as of yet but going to use a newly purchased timing light to test spark. I would like to purchase a scan tool/code reader to assist with troubleshooting. I know they may not tell me specifically what's wrong but it will tell me what isn't. Not much into the "shotgun" approach to troubleshooting.

Can anyone direct me/suggest a scan tool or code reader? Is there additional information that would help to know which one would even work properly?

Thank you in advance for any assistance.

 

[Faztbullet]

Was distributer cap/rotor a OEM of aftermarket? Just went thru this on same engine in houseboat. Owner had tuned up engines 3 months ago and used aftermarket cap and rotor as didnt want to pay $120 for cap/rotor. The rotor burned thru to shaft so no spark out of cap.

 

[Scott Danforth]

if you want to read your engine

Rinda Technologies Inc. Marine and Industrial Engine Diagnostic Tools

The Official Site of Rinda Technologies, Inc. Designing innovative engine diagnostic tools and software for over 20 Years.

www.rinda.com

however start with the basics

compression?
fuel pressure?
spark?

 

[CaptnKingfisher]

I would advise against using a timing light to test for spark. A timing light will only tell you if spark is present or not. You will not be able to gauge the quality of that spark. Get an adjustable spark tester where you can set the gap and observe the color of the spark. I love the one CDI electronics makes, you can hook 8 plug wires up to it at once and set the gap on each to 1/2".

 

[pfries3]

Thank you all for the quick response. My intention is to keep to the basics first, as Scott D noted, and simply see if there is spark utilizing a simple method. I will move onto compression checks next.

 

[achris]

I would advise against using a timing light to test for spark. A timing light will only tell you if spark is present or not. You will not be able to gauge the quality of that spark. Get an adjustable spark tester where you can set the gap and observe the color of the spark. I love the one CDI electronics makes, you can hook 8 plug wires up to it at once and set the gap on each to 1/2".

That's something I'm seeing less and less, people checking spark QUALITY, not just 'is there a spark?' A good spark is as important as a spark at all.

 

[QBhoy]

Check that cap again. Especially if it’s been fitted properly and sitting where it should. Two thing can happen here. They can be mistakenly fitted in a way that they don’t quite mate properly. Or they can be sitting not quite home and the installer doesn’t realise and then continues to tighten down the two small bolts. This then cracks the diz cap without being too obvious that it’s happened. They can also just be dud right out the box too. There have been countless guys on here that have ruled out the cap as good after fitting another cap. Countless times they have been honest enough to come back and state, it was the cap to blame after all.
Battery cables and main earth would be good to have a look at. Could be enough to crank but not enough continuity to crank and fire.

Apart from all that…if you are certain they aren’t to blame…the obvious thing to do is to check the fuel filter and it’s contents for water. Could press in the fitting on the fuel rail too, with the pump priming. Just to make sure there is fuel there.