2012 5.0gxic-270-r wont start. 14 beeps when I turn the key on

[Drjeffgut]

So the boat was sitting at idle and it stalled. Have not been able to get it started since, just beeps when I turn the key. The fuel pump primes correctly. The boat has 165 hours on it. It started right up on the trailer and when I put it in it started right up. Then after about 30 minutes it stalled. It has 1 year old plugs and cap and rotor. Unrelated, on my other post, my steering locked up, but that I fixed. The only strange thing I see is the temp Guage goes to the top when I turn the key. Anyway to jump that out to test? Any help would be appreciated. One odd thing.. I changed the fuel filter just to see and the first key turn had the typical 3 beeps and no warning light. Then it didn't start and went right back to where it was..

 

[Drjeffgut]

Follow up to this post: Boat (216 SSI) still not starting. Cranks fine with very little Tach Movement (I just realized this), now has intermittent spark

When I turn the key the ignition relay activates and I get 12.23 B+ volts to the coil and module. As soon as the fuel and ignition relays deactivate the voltage drops to zero. I can activate the relays with the techmate scanner.

When I disengage my safety lanyard the gauges and everything shuts down, when I reconnect it the ignition and fuel pumps energize and I get the usual 3 beeps. MIL stays on. I am assuming this is good.

The boat is in neutral.

Last week I Used the techmate scanner and pulled several codes. The 5 volt reference from pin 19 was very low, low voltage at TPS2 (changed TPS), burnt oil pressure switch {Put in new switch), high temp at switch and I changed the CPK sensors, even though there was no code for it at the time. The steady alarm beeping stopped when I pulled the wire off of the OPS. All codes are cleared now according to the scanner.

Most of this due to an alternator that burnt up last season as far as I can tell (when the bearing ground the OPS went to zero and the alarm started). In the spring when I started the boat with the new alternator it fired right up. and came up to temp properly.

I changed the cam sensor today because it had a burnt pin on it in the beginning and it was bothering me the whole time (looked like burn, but could have been corrosion?), though it had no code.

There are no codes now, but I tried to crank it with the Crank wire off and it still has no code, so not sure how it would store the code. One thing that happened today was that after I put in the cam sensor and the tach went up to 3000 while cranking, I checked the scanner and there were 3 "previous codes" concerning the ECM, and crank sensor. I probably should have not cleared them, but now no codes return... very odd - like the ECM saw the circuit for a second and then cleared itself? Now the tach is the way it was (doesn't really move much on cranking)

I cleaned all motor grounds with baking soda and water and made sure the started wires were all cleanly attached (they were very clean)

I checked the 12 point voltages as by the manual. Only the voltage coming off of the 5 volt ignition fuse was below 12.36.. it was about 12.01. When I check the status on the scanner it shows battery voltage 12.36, but the scanner shows ignition voltage is low and fluctuates (around 12 or less like 11.98.

I have 12 volts at the ECM, and the boat side of the harness on the Purple ignition wire (with harness connected).

Both fuel pumps energize and I have 60 psi on the rails

I am pretty stumped on this. Ideas? TMI?

 

[alldodge]

The 5 volt reference from pin 19 was very low

checked the 12 point voltages as by the manual. Only the voltage coming off of the 5 volt ignition fuse was below 12.36.. it was about 12.01. When I check the status on the scanner it shows battery voltage 12.36, but the scanner shows ignition voltage is low and fluctuates (around 12 or less like 11.98.

The 5V Ref has to be 5V or the motor will not run. Any of the sensors can cause the issue. If its still low, start disconnecting sensors until the voltage comes back up.

Your battery voltage is low. At 12.3V the charge is only 70%. Full charge is 12.7V

 

[Drjeffgut]

Thanks for the help!

I meant the volts coming off the 5 AMP ignition fuse was low - The manual says look for a .3 volt drop or more from B+ on the voltage drop testing.

The scanner now says 5.01 volts for Ref #1. I haven't measured at each sensor for the 5 volts and I haven't actually put a meter on pin 19 at the ECM. The 5volts was low - I traced it to the OPS and switched it out and that fixed the 5V issue last week. I was just giving the history

I will charge the batteries. One is brand new and I have worn it down from all the ignition on testing

 

[alldodge]

No need to check pin 19 for 5V, if one connection is good they all are

Check for 12V on one side of the injector with key ON. If 12V is there, need a noid light to see the ECM is pulsing them when cranking. Could try a very short shot of starting fluid just to check for spark. Again very small amount of starting fluid

 

[Drjeffgut]

No need to check pin 19 for 5V, if one connection is good they all are

Check for 12V on one side of the injector with key ON. If 12V is there, need a noid light to see the ECM is pulsing them when cranking. Could try a very short shot of starting fluid just to check for spark. Again very small amount of starting fluid

I tried staring fluid and no fire - I used a spark plug tester and got very intermittent week spark when I cranked. I used the scanner to fire each injector and they all fired. I smell gas on the plugs - put in 8 new AC 41-101. And the Tach doesn't move when I crank it.

 

[alldodge]

Might be time to send your ECM out for testing.
Suggest John at Boats unlimited, call first
https://www.boatunlimited.com/

 

[Drjeffgut]

That's what I am thinking. Thanks for the reference - I will call him today.

 

[Drjeffgut]

SOLVED - There were multiple issues so it made it hard to solve - Huge thanks to Curt and alldodge!! After fixing all the electronics and getting spark and fuel I saw that the cranking speed on the starter was slow. I did compression tests on all cylinders and found they were very uneven. I found some drops of water on the rear plug, so I decided to go into the intake manifold. Sure enough the manifold gaskets had failed and there was extensive water damage in the engine. Pulled the engine, had it rebuilt and ended up getting a good 10 hours on the engine and enjoyed the rest of the season. So the best I can piece together is that the alternator went and took out some electronics on the last day of the season, I overheated the engine during winterizing and somehow it started once in the spring due to all the fogging oil? Boy did I learn a lot about VPs last season!

 

[alldodge]

Great and many thanks to closing out the thread