21' Checkmate Transom Rebuild

play2win

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
36
I have to replace the transom on my 21' Checkmate. Does anyone have some helpful info on where to start? I am repainting boat as well, so any suggestions there as well would be appreciated. Note: Along with wood being rotten, there are cracks where the eyehooks are on each side of the o/b. There are also small hairline cracks where the top 1/2 of the boat meets the bottom at both sides of boat on the side corners. Thanks, Michael <br />I was told to come here and ask for JasonJ - he has all the answers. Someone give him a shout out if you see him, thanks again
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: 21' Checkmate Transom Rebuild

Transom jobs aren't bad to do, just labor intensive. There are a few different ways you can tackle it, but first you have to know just how much of your structure is damaged. A lot of people tear into the transom to find out that the floor and stringers are also bad. You first need to find all of your damage. Do you have any soft spots in the floor? No matter what, you still have to cut at least the first foot or so of the floor where it meets the transom, so that will tell you real quick if there is more rot. You will also find out then if the floatation foam is saturated. If it is, then all the foam has to come out.<br /><br />There are a few different ways to replace the transom. Some have cut the outer shell off, then replaced transom wood, then reglassed it in. I do not recommend this technique for a backyard builder, too much can go wrong with such an important area. Another way is to cut the upper shell across the top and remove that back section, splashwell and all. That is fine as long as you can repair the cut. You are going to paint it, so that may be the way to go. A third way is to seperate the entire upper section from the hull. This leaves the upper section in one piece, but is more labor intensive. Once you have the transom fully exposed, it is simply a matter of cutting out the old and glassing in the new. You can use marine grade ply, pressure treated ply as long as it is fully dried, or regular ACX ply. You layer it to the required thickness and then sheath the entire transom in. You have to also reglass the stringer ends and replace the floor section you cut out. There is also a product called Seacast that is poured into the empty void left when the wood is removed, but this requires a whole different technique to get the wood out but leave the inner transom glass shell in place. This is a very quick description, there is plenty of small details as well, but if you are even sort of handy, it is within your realm.<br /><br />I recommend you buy some books and read them a million times, and ask a lot of questions here. If you can post pics, even better. There are several people here who are very knowledgeable on this sort of thing, you should be able to get plenty of help. Good luck and keep posting...
 

CTD

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 13, 2002
Messages
234
Re: 21' Checkmate Transom Rebuild

For a boat of that size and with stress cracks already I recomend using epoxy, its much stronger. I have not finished mine yet and It took a little over 2 gallons to do my transom on a 19 footer. I have all the floor area attachments left to do. I would figure on at least 3-4 gallons just for the transom. Materials so far for the transom at right at $300.00. I hope the floor is ok because that is one heck of a lot of area on a 21 foot boat to be sanding and grinding on.
 

jfc092

Seaman
Joined
Jun 3, 2002
Messages
60
Re: 21' Checkmate Transom Rebuild

Play2win;<br />Being in the middle of a transom and reflooring job on a 19 footer. I can tell you that the most important tool I've found to use is a 4 1/2 inch grinder using both cut off wheels and grinding wheels. I've also used a circular saw, wood chisils, belt sander and a dremel tool.<br />I'm using epoxy resin only with fiberglass cloth even though polyester resin is alot cheaper. By the time I'm finished, the new transom and floor on this boat will last into the next century. Far longer than I'll need.
 

ob15

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 4, 2004
Messages
514
Re: 21' Checkmate Transom Rebuild

Definitely use epoxy & the best plywood you can afford. I would also suggest using baix cloth (45/45) instead of woven. It's much stronger.
 

play2win

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
36
Re: 21' Checkmate Transom Rebuild

I thank everyone for giving their time to post messages. I have the entire week off this upcoming week, so I'm sure that as soon as I start - questions will be never ending from my side. Hopefully, you guys can guide me through any rough spots. How do I post pics? Thanks again
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: 21' Checkmate Transom Rebuild

Posting pics: You need to have the pics uploaded onto a server such as a free pic hosting site, your own website, web space from your own ISP. Once you have the pic uploaded onto a site, you need to have its URL. I have found that the easiest way to do it is to bring the pic up so it is visible on the screen, right click on the pic itself, click Properties, and copy the entire address shown. Then you come to the post and either use the IMAGE button or what I do is just paste it in the post and put a
at the end of the pic address with no space, and it works. Good luck...
 

play2win

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
36
Re: 21' Checkmate Transom Rebuild

OK, I took off the top half of the boat. The inner part of transom (inside) wall is absolutley solid. The wood is wet in the middle, I guess it needs a new transom. The fiberglass is cracked where the jackplate is (1' long). To be perfectly honest, I dont know what I'm doing. I took pics w/ digital camera. When you were telling me how to post, it sounded like you were speaking a different language. I am computer illiterate. Can you send me an e-mail address, so I can simply attach them to an e-mail file.
 

play2win

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
36
Re: 21' Checkmate Transom Rebuild

After looking at your boat re-build (great job), it gave me a better understanding of what to do. Dont know what matting is, etc. I need to send you pics, so that you understand what I'm looking at.
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: 21' Checkmate Transom Rebuild

My email address is on my web page. If you send pics, make sure they are saved as a JPEG file, or it will take an eternity to send and for me to recieve.<br /><br />As for what matting is, there are different types of material you can use. Mat is basically a jumbled mess of fiberglass strands in a sheet. The strength is addequate. Woven cloth is long strands of fiberglass that are interwoven at 90 degree angles, the pattern is small. Roving is similar to woven cloth except the strands are larger and the weave is larger, it is whats best for ultimate strength. Biax is also great for ultimate strength, You can use either epoxy or polyester resin. The entire boat is made of polyester resin and you can do your rebuild with it, it is more than adequate for the job. Epoxy will give a superior bond, and is much easier to deal with, but you pay a premium for it. If you have the money, use epoxy. Otherwise, the poly resin will do the job just fine. Have you looked into getting some books on this? You really should, it is very helpful. Runabout Renovation is a good book for beginners, it is easy to understand and gives you an excellent result. Some of the other fiberglassing books out there assume you have a degree in rocket science and make it more difficult than it needs to be. All you really have to remember is that if you can rebuild it at least as good as it was originally built, then you will be alright. You will get suggestions for all sorts of high end exotic crazy expensive materials, but in the end the boat was built with wood, roving, matt, and polyester resin. It lasted this long, you rebuild it good, it will last longer than you need it to. Just be realistic with the project and you'll be alright.
 
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